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  #1  
Old 11-04-2018, 09:01 PM
DeltaVee47 DeltaVee47 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 35
Default First real disappointment

Today I rigged and trimmed upper and lower cowl, then measured and match drilled the piano hinges upper and side. For the first time in my build I felt disappointed in the quality of the Vans solution to this problem. Trying to push those pins with one hand inserted into the oil check door is a horror. I expect this will need to be done dozens of times in the future. So I searched the archives and read about Skybolt fasteners. I have a quickbuild fuse so the piano hinge is already on the fuse side. Is it feasible and reasonable to do the Skybolt fasteners on the upper cowl? I have no problem with the piano hinges on the side.
Thanks for any insight.
Greg Beckner
N557GB
140366
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  #2  
Old 11-04-2018, 09:15 PM
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Jesse Jesse is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: X35 - Ocala, FL
Posts: 3,629
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Take a look at an RV-10. The top cowl to firewall pins are a MUCH better system on the -10 that could be used on any of the other models.
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  #3  
Old 11-04-2018, 09:20 PM
KeithB KeithB is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 175
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This topic is likely to raise strong opinions on both sides - the Van's solution is either loved or hated, and not just on the RV-14 as it's been around awhile. I went with the stock build here, and as promised by many, the pins have gotten easier with time. The Van's solution can work, and you end up with a great looking cowl when you are done - IMHO much better looking than screws or camlocs. Use all the plans suggestions including: heavily taper the end of the pin, put a major bend/curve into the pin to help it guide itself around the corner, use boelube generously every time you remove the pins. The biggest drawback I have found is it can be hot in there shortly after a shutdown, but still doable.
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RV-14A Builder - kit #136, XP-400 Aero Sport Power
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  #4  
Old 11-04-2018, 09:23 PM
Jake14 Jake14 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Seattle
Posts: 187
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That's what I did on my QB fuse, worked great. Just be careful to get the spacing right near the motor mount bolts
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  #5  
Old 11-04-2018, 11:17 PM
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RV-14E RV-14E is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Colorado
Posts: 143
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeltaVee47 View Post
Today I rigged and trimmed upper and lower cowl, then measured and match drilled the piano hinges upper and side. For the first time in my build I felt disappointed in the quality of the Vans solution to this problem. Trying to push those pins with one hand inserted into the oil check door is a horror. I expect this will need to be done dozens of times in the future. So I searched the archives and read about Skybolt fasteners. I have a quickbuild fuse so the piano hinge is already on the fuse side. Is it feasible and reasonable to do the Skybolt fasteners on the upper cowl? I have no problem with the piano hinges on the side.
Thanks for any insight.
Greg Beckner
N557GB
140366
Greetings.

Consider using VAF's search feature (or better yet, Google's specific site search) to find examples of what you're looking for.

See here for Skybolt quarter turn fasteners on upper cowl of an RV-14A:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...41&postcount=6
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  #6  
Old 11-05-2018, 03:05 AM
WAM120RV WAM120RV is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Coventry. England
Posts: 600
Default Solutions

Hi

During the initial build of my 4 the hinges along the length of the cowl were a nightmare. I persevered with them and now think they are great.

However, I did not want a hole in the top of the cowl to access hinges at the top of the firewall and put sky bolt fasteners there.

Good luck with the build whatever you choose to do.
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In completion stage of Loehle P5151
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  #7  
Old 11-05-2018, 05:52 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is online now
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
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I didn’t like the piano hinges in that location at first but now I can get them in and out in about 30 seconds. Boelube helps and the parts wear in a bit. Also make sure you have tapered the hinge locations called out in the instructions, that helped a lot.
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Last edited by bkervaski : 11-05-2018 at 03:58 PM.
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  #8  
Old 11-05-2018, 05:58 AM
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M McGraw M McGraw is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Greenback, TN
Posts: 417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkervaski View Post
I didnít like the piano hinges in that location at first but now I can get them in and out in about 30 seconds. Boelube helps and the parts wear in a bit. Also make sure you have tapered the ones called out in the instructions, that helped a lot.
Just an opinion, but I like the pins as well. They are low cost and clean. Instead of boelube I use a telfon lube from autozone. It goes on wet then drys to white teflon power. It does not get my hands dirty during install/removal. Take the time to bend the pins very close to the firewall curvature and they work easily.
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  #9  
Old 11-05-2018, 07:25 AM
Jpm757 Jpm757 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Sherman, CT
Posts: 225
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Initially the pins are a real PITA, as the cowlings eventually find their happy place the pin extraction and installation becomes very quick and easy. The real beauty of the system is the very clean cowl lines which are one of the trademarks of the RV. A good dry lubricant at each removal will make life much easier. On both my -6 and -7, after about 100 hrs. the pins begin to work quite smoothly.
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RV6 completed 1991 sold.
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  #10  
Old 11-05-2018, 07:31 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is online now
 
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Location: Birmingham, Alabama
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Quote:
Instead of boelube I use a telfon lube from autozone.
This is a great idea, wish I thought of it.
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