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  #21  
Old 10-19-2018, 12:15 PM
Aluminum Aluminum is offline
 
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pa38112 View Post
Do you really want to use loctite on every screw every time you take off your wheel pants?
Absolutely! If there is any doubt whether it wants to move, I glue it. And throw away used fasteners too--remember the tragedy at Reno. It's really not that much of a hassle, trace amounts will do the work if applied properly. I figure, if the method works well on the spinner it will work most everywhere else. YMMV
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  #22  
Old 10-19-2018, 12:22 PM
Aluminum Aluminum is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rzbill View Post
So..... that is an indication to me that entirely too many nut-plates are being tapped.

During my build, I tapped exactly...zero. It is not needed. Use of good installation technique and proper tools address most. A little whale oil (Boelube) or wax fixes the few tight ones.
I think you misunderstood my meaning: I tapped fewer than a dozen nutplates on my two builds, and those mostly for convenience--I'm quite careful with installation and will redo if it's not smooth.

On the other hand, the plate cover over my instrument panel must have come off at least fifty times for tinkering. If you do proper annuals you'd have to replace most of the nutplates on the airplane in year six per Toolbuilder's spec!
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  #23  
Old 10-19-2018, 12:38 PM
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Mel Mel is online now
 
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Mr. Aluminum, You are free to do whatever you are comfortable with on your aircraft. It is indeed experimental. But you seem to be indicating that tapping platenuts is common practice. In your corner of the world, it may be. But I have and continue to inspect hundreds of amateur-built aircraft every day, and I have NOT found this practice to be the "standard".

To others, Please don't follow "non-standard aircraft practices" without at least consulting with Certified Aircraft Mechanics (A&Ps) or EAA Technical Counselors.
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Mel Asberry..DAR since last century
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North Texas (8TA5)
RV-6 Flying since 1993, 172hp O-320, 3-Blade Catto (since 2003)
Legend Cub purchased 12/2017
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  #24  
Old 10-19-2018, 01:03 PM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
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Default Are you...

Are you saying that what is read on the internet might not be correct? <gasp>
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  #25  
Old 10-19-2018, 01:05 PM
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Mel Mel is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketman1988 View Post
Are you saying that what is read on the internet might not be correct? <gasp>
Yep, Mr. Abraham Lincoln, I believe, said it first!
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Mel Asberry..DAR since last century
A&P/EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor/Nat'l Test Pilot School
Specializing in Amateur-Built and Light-Sport Aircraft
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
North Texas (8TA5)
RV-6 Flying since 1993, 172hp O-320, 3-Blade Catto (since 2003)
Legend Cub purchased 12/2017
FRIEND of the RV-1
Eagle's Nest Mentor
Recipient of Wright Brothers "Master Pilot" Award
  #26  
Old 10-19-2018, 01:12 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Location: Boulder, CO
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Gil got it right in post #20. Generally speaking the stronger screws perform a lot better.

One thing that some unwary people might think, is that if they are drilling all the holes they can downsize the screw diameter because it's a stronger material. Not so - often its the strength of the hole or nutplate or some factor that governs. But merely replacing a weaker screw with a similar stronger one, that's fine.

Dave
Old Engineer
RV-3B building
  #27  
Old 10-19-2018, 01:55 PM
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Toobuilder Toobuilder is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminum View Post
... If you do proper annuals you'd have to replace most of the nutplates on the airplane in year six per Toolbuilder's spec!
It's not "my" spec, it is found in the data sheets of the manufacturer. And yes, nutplates do "wear out" in use. The fasteners securing inspection panels in front of the inlets of the jet engine are checked for running torque at EVERY installation, for example.
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WARNING! Incorrect design and/or fabrication of aircraft and/or components may result in injury or death. Information presented in this post is based on my own experience - Reader has sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for use.

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  #28  
Old 10-19-2018, 03:43 PM
leok leok is offline
 
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Location: Clarkston, MI
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Default +1 for a touch of Beeswax

I have a small cake of beeswax purchased from the local JoAnn's Fabric store.


I scrape the end few threads of each screw against the cake before the first use of the nutplate. After the first use no further use of wax is required, even for fresh screws. Screws run in smooth and easy. I also toss any screw with less than a perfect head, and any driver bit that does not have crisp sharp edges.


I run the screws in with a driver till snug, and finish tightening with a hand driver.

Never broke a screw when doing this, and I don't have the mess of Boelube liquid to deal with.
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  #29  
Old 10-19-2018, 06:18 PM
DeltaVee47 DeltaVee47 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 35
Default Nutplate

Thanks to everyone for the great ideas. I especially like Gilís idea in post #20. My BMW motorcycle is built with star screws which never strip.
Last question (for now). How is running a tap through the lock ring of the nutplate different from forcing the designated screw through the lock ring? When I fit the snorkel I must have run the screws through the nutplates around the filter ramp at least 15 times before I got everything just right. Does this mean that those nutplates are shot and I should replace them?
Greg
N557GB
  #30  
Old 10-19-2018, 06:40 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Location: Schaumburg, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeltaVee47 View Post
Last question (for now). How is running a tap through the lock ring of the nutplate different from forcing the designated screw through the lock ring?
N557GB
No lock ring like a nylon lock nut. The nut plate is mechanically deformed (i.e. squished on two sides) after being tapped, creating at bit of an oval shape. As the screw goes in, it force the sides of the oval back into a circle. However, it is a spring action, due to it' limited movement and steel type, and comes back to oval again when the screw is removed. This spring tension is what "locks" the threads.

Tapping re-cuts the threads to be perfectly round again and therefore no tension and no locking. However the sharp teeth of the tap cut into the steel instead of forcing it to expand from oval to round. Also, the deeper threads cut into the sides of the oval also takes away from the structural metal, weakening the nutplate.

The first screw in has more friction due to the rough thread finish from the plating/painting. The first screw in will burnish/clean up the plate nut's threads so that future screws go in much easier.

Larry
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Last edited by lr172 : 10-19-2018 at 10:55 PM.
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