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  #31  
Old 07-04-2019, 09:09 PM
Stockmanreef Stockmanreef is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Midland, mi
Posts: 713
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I am about to install the FM-150 and I have a question. I assume that one needs to buy the following kit from Airflow performance.

https://airflowperformance.com/index...e-bracket-kit/

This will have all the parts need to put on the FM-150 and the parts to hook up the controllers. Is there anything else I will need.

My real question is why did this kit not come with the engine from Lycoming? Or was I supposed to get it with the engine? It is confusing to me that this kit was not included from Lycoming when purchased.
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Ken Stockman
Midland, MI
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RV-14a (serial number 140073)
N73XP (at least that # reserved now)
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  #32  
Old 07-05-2019, 02:11 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
Posts: 970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stockmanreef View Post
I am about to install the FM-150 and I have a question. I assume that one needs to buy the following kit from Airflow performance.

https://airflowperformance.com/index...e-bracket-kit/

This will have all the parts need to put on the FM-150 and the parts to hook up the controllers. Is there anything else I will need.

My real question is why did this kit not come with the engine from Lycoming? Or was I supposed to get it with the engine? It is confusing to me that this kit was not included from Lycoming when purchased.
The other thing you will need to do is modify the snorkel. The FM-150 servo needs a spacer between it and the engine to allow throttle and mixture cables to move through their full range. This moves the attach point of the snorkel forward from the standard Van's location. Look up Nova RV's excellent post on how to modify the snorkel (here: http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=162451). I used this method and it worked well - I found the easiest way to get it right was to mount the snorkel while doing the first round of modification, get the position tacked into place with some strips of fiberglass, then remove and finish up. Of course this took many rounds of shaping and fitting as per usual. I put some photos here: https://turnerb14a.blogspot.com/2019...er-switch.html.

Final note on snorkel: I had to cut a lug off my starter to clear the snorkel, but I switched from the standard light-weight starter to the "NL" version (Jeff at Thunderbolt mounted for me prior to shipping) so may not apply in your case. It's not hard to do - I just used an oscillating blade type cutter and then ground it down/smoothed it out. Instructions are included in the starter manual IIRC.

Also - once you get the kit to mount throttle and mixture cables, carefully look at the routing of the cables - especially mixture - with exhaust in place. I had to tweak the mixture cable routing to keep clear of exhaust and used both firesleeve and one of Antisplat's heat shields to protect that cable. Also had to adjust the throttle and mixture arms on the servo to clear the rod ends and get full adjustment range on the controls - easy to do but lots of tweaking. Important note: the photos on my blog are not the final mounting locations - I was able to move the rod end to top of the arm by tweaking the arm angle so the photo in the post above is not how it ended up. I didn't like the angle of the rod end from the mounting plate as shown in photos on the blog.

As far as the "why" the only thing I can suggest is that some builders may want to take their own approach to this - like ordering different cables, etc. Note my mention of the mixture cable routing: if I had thought about this more before mounting the exhaust, I might have ordered a different length cable and routed it differently. It worked out fine but took some work to do.
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Last edited by mturnerb : 07-05-2019 at 02:28 AM.
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  #33  
Old 07-05-2019, 05:41 AM
Stockmanreef Stockmanreef is offline
 
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Location: Midland, mi
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It sounds like the spacer is definitely needed regardless as to the cable setup. So the studs on the engine really need to be changed out and this could have been done by Lycoming.

Is the FM-150 really worth all the effort? I guess it is too late anyway, since I would have to replace the spider on the top. At least I think.
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Midland, MI
EAA Chapter 1093 member


RV-14a (serial number 140073)
N73XP (at least that # reserved now)
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  #34  
Old 07-05-2019, 06:42 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
Posts: 970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stockmanreef View Post
It sounds like the spacer is definitely needed regardless as to the cable setup. So the studs on the engine really need to be changed out and this could have been done by Lycoming.

Is the FM-150 really worth all the effort? I guess it is too late anyway, since I would have to replace the spider on the top. At least I think.
Jury still out for me on this question - I'm waiting until out of Phase I to balance the injectors as I have one cylinder leaner than others. However, engine is running great and performing well, and other than the extra time investment, the work isn't that hard. Airflow sent me the studs with the spacer and I followed their instructions to remove/replace. FYI I have a SnapOn stud remover/replacer set I'd be happy to let you borrow!
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  #35  
Old 07-05-2019, 06:47 AM
Tom023 Tom023 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Cypress, TX
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The only other thing you may find is the fuel hose from the servo to spider may be way too long. I contacted Lycoming about this on my Thunderbolt and they offered to send a replacement and hopefully now ship the correct length. I had already had one made by AS/TSFlightlines in my hose package.

The cable kit is well worth it but as mentioned the mixture cable is too long. I did a bit of an S curve under the panel but will shorten it if I ever replace it. I handled the snorkel differently. I cut off the flange with a band saw, cut off 3/8” and reglassed the flange back on. Just be sure to make square cuts. One nut on the starter was barely touching the snorkel so I just added some heat with a heat gun and pushed it in a small amount to clear.

Is it worth it? I thought the same thing. I have no idea...but the gold anodized components look cool
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Last edited by Tom023 : 07-05-2019 at 06:51 AM.
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  #36  
Old 07-05-2019, 06:53 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom023 View Post
The only other thing you may find is the fuel hose from the servo to spider may be way too long. I contacted Lycoming about this on my Thunderbolt and they offered to send a replacement and hopefully now ship the correct length. I had already had one made by AS/TSFlightlines in my hose package.

The cable kit is well worth it but as mentioned the mixture cable is too long. I did a bit of an S curve under the panel but will shorten it if I ever replace it. I handled the snorkel differently. I cut off the flange with a band saw, cut off 3/8 and reglassed the flange back on. Just be sure to make square cuts. One nut on the starter was barely touching the snorkel so I just added some heat with a heat gun and pushed it in a small amount to clear.

Is it worth it? I thought the same thing. I have no idea...but the gold anodized components look cool
I had to have Tom send me a new one as well - forgot to mention this. But it's trivially easy to replace once you get the right length hose. I just sent Tom the old one marked with the correct length and he turned it around in a couple of days.
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RV-14A FLYING!!
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  #37  
Old 07-05-2019, 06:54 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
Posts: 970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stockmanreef View Post
It sounds like the spacer is definitely needed regardless as to the cable setup. So the studs on the engine really need to be changed out and this could have been done by Lycoming.

Is the FM-150 really worth all the effort? I guess it is too late anyway, since I would have to replace the spider on the top. At least I think.
BE SURE to identify (and replace with a proper metal cap) the plastic cap on the spider. It's very easy to miss.
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RV-14A FLYING!!
https://turnerb14a.blogspot.com/
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  #38  
Old 07-05-2019, 08:09 AM
Stockmanreef Stockmanreef is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Midland, mi
Posts: 713
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you mean the red plastic cap on the steel hose fitting? Why is that fitting there instead of a cap? Does that fitting have a use?
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Ken Stockman
Midland, MI
EAA Chapter 1093 member


RV-14a (serial number 140073)
N73XP (at least that # reserved now)
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  #39  
Old 07-05-2019, 09:15 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stockmanreef View Post
you mean the red plastic cap on the steel hose fitting? Why is that fitting there instead of a cap? Does that fitting have a use?
Yes - it's a well known issues (see here: https://www.vansaircraft.com/service...s/sb-18-05-21/). Apparently the fitting is for some kind of gauge. The SB shows a plug but I just put a cap on the hose fitting as delivered.
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  #40  
Old 07-05-2019, 10:09 AM
Aircraft Specialty Aircraft Specialty is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Oconomowoc, WI
Posts: 388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom023 View Post
The only other thing you may find is the fuel hose from the servo to spider may be way too long. I contacted Lycoming about this on my Thunderbolt and they offered to send a replacement and hopefully now ship the correct length. I had already had one made by AS/TSFlightlines in my hose package.

The cable kit is well worth it but as mentioned the mixture cable is too long. I did a bit of an S curve under the panel but will shorten it if I ever replace it. I handled the snorkel differently. I cut off the flange with a band saw, cut off 3/8 and reglassed the flange back on. Just be sure to make square cuts. One nut on the starter was barely touching the snorkel so I just added some heat with a heat gun and pushed it in a small amount to clear.

Is it worth it? I thought the same thing. I have no idea...but the gold anodized components look cool
Regarding the Spider to servo hose. The one that Thunderbolt was shipping is too long and that has been a known issue. I didn't want to give incorrect information, so I just got off the phone with Jeff at Thunderbolt. He told me that they have not yet been able to get sourcing to swap over to the shorter hose length.

If you do end up with an engine with a Servo to spider line that is a bit too long, there is no need to take any measurements. We know the correct length and can fabricate that line for a perfect fit.

Here is what the shortened line looks like on the FM150



Have fun building!
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