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  #11  
Old 11-04-2018, 01:23 PM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Location: Landing field "12VA"
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I went with the 1140A4 series because 1. others had, successfully, and 2. I wanted something to dress the doorway edge with a nice wear-resistant wrap. I will consider a seal on the door face as a last resort.

Different door seals are $50 a pop from McMaster. Relatively cheap, but only relatively. 9/32" bulb already on order. I will report results.

Carl - I have almost no binding on the doors woth the seals off. What little there is I expect to eliminate with greased pins and taking a little more thickness off the AeroSport cam block.
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RV-6A - N30YD - flying since '98
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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  #12  
Old 11-04-2018, 08:19 PM
Strasnuts Strasnuts is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
I think what Strasnuts meant to say is if you only have 1/4" of gap, you will need three linebackers pushing on the door to get it to close. I now have one door with .30" clearance all the way around and it still won't close with those 3/8" bulb seals on. Portions of the doorway are now so thin the seal won't stay on - almost knife edge. Time to add some flox on the inner doorway edge to build it back up. This will likely necessitate some spot repairs to the interior paint job.
Bill,

I truly have 1/4" reveal around my door all the way around without the seal on. my doors are easy to close with very low effort for the last 950 hours. Even though you have it working with a smaller seal bulb, I would definitely check to see where the friction is. The added pressure of the seal is causing something else not to line up. I'm guessing it is the pushrod alignment but who knows. The doors are frustrating but the more time to make them work right the better in the long run. Call me if you think I could answer any of your questions. 801-580-3737
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  #13  
Old 11-05-2018, 04:53 PM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Generous offer, Sean. I won't hesitate to call if I need to.

My doors are things of beauty as far as fit, flush-ness and handle operation as long as there's no seal in place. I think this will just come down to a matter of making the gap such that the bulb is not fully compressed. No apparent reason that wouldn't be the case. I do have one door that's a tad stiffer than the other, but have not resorted to lubrication yet on either side. Trying to avoid surface contamination ahead of paint. The inside handles will close the doors with one finger; the outside factory handles require a whole-hand grip.

With .25" gap on one door and .30" on the other and a seal in place, there is no way to press the door down hard enough to make the thing sit flush even locally in the opening. The pins will not even start to engage. I doubt the issue is the PlaneAround latch, but I admit you might well know better. Just doesn't make sense yet to me it would be a latch issue.
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Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - flying since '98
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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  #14  
Old 11-05-2018, 05:04 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
Generous offer, Sean. I won't hesitate to call if I need to.

My doors are things of beauty as far as fit, flush-ness and handle operation as long as there's no seal in place. I think this will just come down to a matter of making the gap such that the bulb is not fully compressed. No apparent reason that wouldn't be the case. I do have one door that's a tad stiffer than the other, but have not resorted to lubrication yet on either side. Trying to avoid surface contamination ahead of paint. The inside handles will close the doors with one finger; the outside factory handles require a whole-hand grip.

With .25" gap on one door and .30" on the other and a seal in place, there is no way to press the door down hard enough to make the thing sit flush even locally in the opening. The pins will not even start to engage. I doubt the issue is the PlaneAround latch, but I admit you might well know better. Just doesn't make sense yet to me it would be a latch issue.
I believe most of the "fight" from the seals comes from points closer to the hinge line. I'd start looking there. Have you put some play-dough or a similar material in the gutter, then closed the doors, to see what the real gaps are without the seals in place?
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  #15  
Old 11-05-2018, 05:48 PM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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I suspect you are right about the upper portions of the door seal putting up more resistance. I haven't yet used modeling clay as a gauge, but have been progressively sanding and using a box end wrench of known thickness as a go/no-go gauge all the way around the door.
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Bill Boyd

Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - flying since '98
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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  #16  
Old 11-09-2018, 10:45 PM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Pleased to report the smaller seal fixed the interference issue at the stage I was at, eliminating the need to grind more of the cabin top to powder. The 3/16" width is a good fit on the thin, almost knife edge areas of doorway I have created with all this relief sanding, and the 9/32" bulb makes a good seal all the way around with minimal resistance to closure. Two finger's pressure operates the door handles inside and out.

I'm a happy camper again. I may get this thing on gear before 2019.
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Bill Boyd

Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - flying since '98
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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