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  #31  
Old 10-19-2018, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeltaVee47 View Post
Thanks to everyone for the great ideas. I especially like Gil’s idea in post #20. ...

Last question (for now). How is running a tap through the lock ring of the nutplate different from forcing the designated screw through the lock ring?
....
Greg
N557GB
Simpler answer - the tap has a cutting edge and removes material, the screws do not.
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  #32  
Old 10-20-2018, 03:05 PM
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Well, I guess I will jump back in to the conversation. Please review page 8-5 of the Vans RV-7 build manual where they state "it is acceptable to run an 8-32 tap through the nutplates." This is in reference to the seat pans and the outer ribs.

They do not say to do it indiscriminately and neither did I.

Have fun with the conversation.
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  #33  
Old 10-23-2018, 10:45 AM
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I think I've seen this discussion come up at least once every year, and the same fighting camps emerge. Its almost a religious argument with all kinds of half truths and hard over suppositions. IMHO, one needs to evaluate where the nut plate is going and what its expected purpose is, and indeed they have two purposes - to act as a nut where access to said nut not simple or desired, and/or to act as a locking nut where said nut etc....

I run a tap thru my nutplates when I'm going to be doing a lot of screw insertion and removal of said part - which when you are ex-peri-ment-ing, that happens alot. If I need that plate in the final insertion, and forever more to be a locker, then it either gets replaced, or much more likely, the screw gets safety wired, or Locktited or the nutplate gets re-squeezed. OMG - Resqueezed! Imagine that.

Theres more than one correct way to skin this cat, and its application specific. One would think with the proper application of common engineering sense, we could all at least agree on that.
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Last edited by maniago : 10-23-2018 at 03:08 PM.
  #34  
Old 10-23-2018, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maniago View Post
Theres more than correct way to skin this cat, and its application specific. One would think with the proper application of common engineering sense, we could all at least agree on that.
In keeping with Maniago's post about alternatives:

Instead of tapping, I used a different type of aviation #8 screw in the problem areas (not just the pan edges but anywhere using a Phillips would be a pain. With these 'drop in replacement' hex heads, they are a breeze to install/remove without killing yourself with effort to keep the Phillips engaged. (READ: It makes electric screwdriver work for real. EVERYWHERE)

Here is a Spruce Link:
NAS1801-08-07 Hex head screws

I think these things are wonderful.
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Last edited by rzbill : 10-23-2018 at 11:42 AM.
  #35  
Old 10-23-2018, 06:39 PM
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Chapsticks work great for lubricating screws and I used cap screws w
Every place i could.

I think the only place that has 8-32 pan head screws is under the seat cushions; however, along the sides of the seat pans are cap screws.
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