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Old 07-16-2015, 05:59 AM
JDA_BTR JDA_BTR is offline
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 604

I saw this a few weeks ago and bought a 8' rod and two sockets. My RV14 elevator LE has three main sections so I cut the rod in three pieces to handle the different portions of the LE so I wouldn't have to do the whole thing at once. The steel tube was cut, and the grinder and some sand paper used to dress the cut edge. JB welded the socket in one end with about 1/16 sticking out. Used a 7/8 socket with 3/8 drive. No special socket or tube prep.

I ended up not using the smaller piece of rod because the two other ones did the job well. Two lengths were more convenient than one but I could have done it with one I think.

I held down one end and ran the ratchet while another friend held the tube down to the table. The edge rolled without any trouble at all and it looks beautiful. I think it is really a two person job but a strong person could do it all. The ratchet and socket prevented any spar damage and made it almost easy. The JB Weld held for me with no socket or rod prep.

Thank you for this tip - it made a tough job quick. I had struggled prior to this. Tool cost - $25; money well spent.
N1463 seems a good number....
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:49 PM
AdamB AdamB is offline
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NH
Posts: 128


Can't thank you enough for this tip. It worked really well.
I did my rudder leading edge today; first time doing a leading edge.

Happy with the results.

RV10 - #41687
N810AB Reserved
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Old 02-08-2017, 04:47 PM
Mach.26's Avatar
Mach.26 Mach.26 is offline
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Ozark, AL
Posts: 52

Looks great Adam. I just finished my RV-8 Rudder. Used this method, happy with the way it turned out but I still needed to a lot of hand tweaking and massaging to get it close to where it was not too much stress on the rivets. I worked them till the skins where touching (or almost) then pulled them the rest of the way and riveted. Spent a lot of time on it. Hands sore now. Tougher than I thought or maybe I am making it tougher than it needs to be? Or perhaps this works better for the 10 control surfaces and 7/8 builders should use a smaller rod?
Adam Wright
RV-8 Builder 83611

Last edited by Mach.26 : 02-08-2017 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 02-10-2017, 01:18 PM
mikesierra mikesierra is offline
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 14
Default Just gets better and better

I just finished rolling the elevator leading edge with this technique. Worked as well as the rudder roll previously.

I have also been using the same rod, with a ratchet on only one side, to remove the blue vinyl from the flat skins; effortlessly!

Thanks for sharing this tool tip!

RV-10 Empennage complete. Tailcone complete. Chapter 29 complete!

Dues paid
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Old 08-03-2018, 01:36 AM
Swiss14A Swiss14A is offline
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 1
Default Alternative Method

Hi Guys
I thought I use this thread to also share my method. It's low tech but works quite well. Especially for the bend of the RV14 rudder according the required bend profile as described in the manual. The thing is, that of bend the skin at the first part more than where the two skins overlap after the bend. The overlapping part is almost straight. I heard from a friend that he had to massage the bend a little after he first attached the rudder to the VS because the rudder leading edge was not bent "flat" enough.

So take a broomstick and a similar piece of round wood, cut it to length if necessary and simply hold them together with cable tie. It is easiest to bend it if you are two guys, one on each side...
F006854B-70A8-4032-BFB5-06718D0A9371 by Fabian Hummel, on Flickr
01E574E5-3BC7-4E10-8B09-79F3D94EF068 by Fabian Hummel, on Flickr
E03D2DA2-7CF1-4B7D-8F98-21981089CB78 by Fabian Hummel, on Flickr
FC71CB8E-E34E-4C53-9CF2-4D24B9C969A3 by Fabian Hummel, on Flickr

Best regards

PS: I hope you can see the pictures Had to do some try and error until they were visible on my screen at least...

Last edited by Swiss14A : 08-03-2018 at 01:49 AM.
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