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Wings install question

togaflyer

Well Known Member
When installing the wings, should the wingtips and flaps be on or off. Or does it matter. I plan to keep the ailerons attached since they are rigged.
 
Really should not matter-------I suggest you have them off, lighter and the tip rib makes a decent hand hold.

Have some hardware store bolts with the threads cut off to use a pins to help with getting things aligned. Round off the end a bit to make insertion easier.

I used a pair of saw horses to put the wing on and get basic alignment started, then picked up the wing and worked it into the slot------pretty easy after the first few times.
 
When installing the wings, should the wingtips and flaps be on or off. Or does it matter. I plan to keep the ailerons attached since they are rigged.

Flaps, ailerons and wingtips all off. Your helpers will be reaching for handholds and these get in the way - and are easily damaged.

Carl
 
...

I used a pair of saw horses to put the wing on and get basic alignment started, then picked up the wing and worked it into the slot------pretty easy after the first few times.

How many times did you have to take them on and off? :)
 
How many times did you have to take them on and off? :)

Twice.

Once everything as fitted, I took them off and stored them back in the wing stand. They were transported to and from my painter?s hangar/shop in the stands. Once the aircraft was painted and back in the hangar, they were reassembled.
 
Twice.

Once everything as fitted, I took them off and stored them back in the wing stand. They were transported to and from my painter?s hangar/shop in the stands. Once the aircraft was painted and back in the hangar, they were reassembled.

Mike S implied it was quite a few times more. :)

I was wondering why.
 
Mike S implied it was quite a few times more. :)

I was wondering why.

Just simply to make it easier to walk around the plane. All wiring, aileron/flap installation and rigging was done at my home hangar, then the FAA changed the rules and I had to take the plane to a different airport to test fly. Luckily I had not yet installed the "real bolts", just used the test pins.

The wings on a 10 go on a lot easier than the earlier models, all bolts outside the fuse.
 
When fitting the wings for the first time...do you use the supplied precision bolts or something differennt, saving those for the final install
 
bolts

I used four 3/8" hardware store bolts. I ground off the threads and tapered the ends slightly.

Worked good. I would NOT use the tight tolerance bolts for a test fit...
 
Hardware store bolts----get them longer than the actual bolts, cut off the threads and taper/round off the end.
 
Thanks. I have the 4 bolts in place now as I am building the fuse so those will be the ones for wing install. Thanks
 
Another data point..

When fitting the wings for the first time...do you use the supplied precision bolts or something differennt, saving those for the final install

Mark,

I used the close tolerance bolts with the spacers in order to "align" the two center spar sections, while building my fuse. My thought was that I wanted them to be as closely aligned as possible, in the hopes that when I go to install the wings, the spar holes will all go together "like butter." The close tolerance bolts required patience and lubrication to work with, and it's possible I may have to buy new close tolerance bolts when the time comes for final assembly. However, I wanted everything to be as closely aligned during building as possible. I just didn't feel that "hardware" bolts would give me that. Your mileage may vary.
 
The close tolerance bolts required patience and lubrication to work with

When you do the actual assembly with the close tolerance bolts, put them in a small ice chest with dry ice for an hour or so.

Helps......

Also, be sure the threads on the bolt/nut do not bottom out before the nut fully seats on the spar. As I recall, I had to install a thin washer on a couple bolts to get the stackup right.
 
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Mark,

I used the close tolerance bolts with the spacers in order to "align" the two center spar sections, while building my fuse. My thought was that I wanted them to be as closely aligned as possible, in the hopes that when I go to install the wings, the spar holes will all go together "like butter." The close tolerance bolts required patience and lubrication to work with, and it's possible I may have to buy new close tolerance bolts when the time comes for final assembly. However, I wanted everything to be as closely aligned during building as possible. I just didn't feel that "hardware" bolts would give me that. Your mileage may vary.

I did the same. Wondering if I need to buy new bolts now for final assembly? Thoughts anyone? May put a call into the mother ship as well.
 
I used four 3/8" hardware store bolts. I ground off the threads and tapered the ends slightly.

Worked good. I would NOT use the tight tolerance bolts for a test fit...

Ditto. BTW, the plans recommend doing it this way. Less chance of screwing up some critical hardware/parts. Save the close tolerance bolts for final assembly.
 
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