slider canopy frame question

I'm getting my canopy frame bent into shape and have the top fwd bow 3/8" higher than roll bar, side bows shaped to fuselage, rear bows 1/8" lower than rear skin, but my side bows are not level with the canopy decks. They are almost 1/4" lower at the rear. If I raise them to level, the aft center frame is too high, if I lower the front by cutting the tubing that the roller fits in it will lower the forward bow too much. Other than open cockpit what is the best way to address this?

Maybe OK ?

Kelley, each frame is a little different but if the rear bows are perfect, the side bows are shaped to the fuse (maybe a 1/6 inside I think is the spec), the front is 3/8 high and the only thing that is out is the side bow level by 1/4,..... I think you are pretty good.

My opinion only, but the level part doesn't seem to be real important IF it's not obvious, IF it isn't so low that the lower part of the skirt brace contacts the deck rail when its closed, and IF the pins are at a reasonable height to engage properly.

My experience says that the curvature of the side bows and the relationship of the rear bows to the rear deck was more important than the level of the side bows. The trick is getting the pin blocks drilled properly and set in the attach channel without changing any of the relative dimensions.

It's almost impossible to get all dimensions perfect. The rear bows and the contour shape of the side bows is what usually causes the most trouble with fitting the side and rear skirts.

Think about it carefully, I could be wrong ;-) but there are a lot frames that get ruined by trying for perfect when almost perfect is good enough.

Bill S
7a finishing

Sliding canopy frame fit...

We have all been there. Like the tech support guy said at Van's, "It's only an airplane." The fit of the side and rear canopy skirts will keep down the air leaks into and out of the canopy.

You can see my experience with the frame beginning on this web page. http://www.n2prise.org/rv9a043.htm I also modified my canopy with the Meske tip-up baggage access modification. You will probably want to read this series of pages all the way through the fiberglass work on the windshield to see what to expect. (Your mileage may vary, batteries not included.)

The square tube that is on the sides does not have to be parallel with the canopy rail. The fit and finish of the skirts is what counts on the side and rear. The height of the bow on the front compared to the roll bar gives a good finished air flow when the airplane is completed.

You might want to also add some weather stripping where the canopy frame meets the windshield roll bar in case you get caught out in the rain. After my second encounter with light rain on the ground or in flight, I added the weather strips to keep from getting dripped on. With no air flow over the canopy, the rain runs down the canopy toward the roll bar and falls in your lap. http://www.n2prise.org/rv9a260.htm