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  #1  
Old 11-12-2017, 05:45 PM
tdk tdk is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Columbia, Maryland
Posts: 49
Default Flap rod installation

Is there any reason I should not reverse the bolts holding the upper flap rod bearing to the flap bar weldment?

The plans show the bolt head on the outboard side, but I don't have enough room to install the bolt through the bearing. If I unbolt the weldment and install the upper bearing, I am unable to align and insert the stud on the lower bearing into the flap.

Reversing the bolt allows much easier adjustment of the flap rod length, and there seems to be plenty of clearance to the fuselage side skin. I suppose the nut could more easily hang up on the rudder cable, but I plan to make a small bracket on the baggage cover to keep the two separate.
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RV-7 N616TK
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  #2  
Old 11-12-2017, 06:14 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 3,341
Default

If I recall, mine is installed as you have requested with the nut outboard. I do also have a J bracket on the side panel to keep the rudder cable in place. Mine is a 6A.

When you make your J brackets, bend enough tension on the leg so it will definitely contact the side skin with a little pressure.
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  #3  
Old 11-12-2017, 06:29 PM
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Pmerems Pmerems is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 799
Default Bolt head inboard

I installed mine with the bolt heads inboard. I remove the bolts every conditional inspection and release the flaps to inspect the flap hinge and rear spar. Didn't see a good reason to jump through extra steps to remove the nylon blocks/bolts just to get the bolt out or untreading the rodend if the bolts were installed per plans.
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ExperimentalAero-HANGAR BANNERS
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RV-7A (Flying since 2010)/RV-4 (sold 1990)
Tucson, Arizona 85749
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  #4  
Old 11-13-2017, 06:39 AM
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bret bret is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gardnerville Nv.
Posts: 2,689
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There was one guy here that had his rudder cable snagged by this bolt, the nuts go inward, unless you capture the cable like mentioned above. yes, I too had to remove the weldment to install correctly
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  #5  
Old 11-14-2017, 09:37 AM
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Lemmingman Lemmingman is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 663
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I installed mine with the nut inboard too. I want the record to show that I did it in protest. It seems to me if I have to do work on one flap I run the risk of doing more harm than good taking the entire weldment out.
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  #6  
Old 11-22-2017, 04:38 AM
Pbr47906 Pbr47906 is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: West Lafayette IN
Posts: 103
Default Flap rod - a better solution

Gentlemen,

On my RV7A, Papa Mike, I looked at that and decided I had a better solution. On the upper rod end bearing I used a reverse thread. The bearing is the same price as the standard thread but now to adjust the flaps, I loosen the lock nuts on both ends and turn the rod, just like a turn buckle. May I suggest that you convert to that design.

Ruley
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  #7  
Old 11-22-2017, 10:21 AM
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bret bret is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gardnerville Nv.
Posts: 2,689
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If it can it will?......with a RH thread on both ends and installed with enough thread in the rod ends, the unit will bottom out on one end preventing the assembly from coming apart, however, with one LH and one RH thread it could come apart IF both lock nuts came loose, highly unlikely but......
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  #8  
Old 11-22-2017, 11:56 AM
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Bob Kuykendall Bob Kuykendall is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Douglas Flat, CA
Posts: 546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pbr47906 View Post
...On the upper rod end bearing I used a reverse thread...
I do that in exactly one place on the HP-24 kit sailplane. Well, two places, one in each wing. Some notes and commentary:

* The place where I use the turnbuckle arrangement is to set the downlock travel of the airbrake drive arm; that's the only place in the whole glider where I need adjustment down to a couple thousandths of an inch. Everywhere else, a half-turn of a 1/4-28 thread (1/56" or 0.018") is plenty of resolution.

* As others point out, the turnbuckle arrangement can become completely disconnected if both jam nuts loosen. The possibility is pretty low, but it is a thing to be concerned about. Double-righties completely protects against that.

* Where I do use left-handed rod ends and nuts, I am careful to mark both as unique--we buy color-plated nuts, and turn a marking ring into the rod. Even so, I figure it is only a matter of time before someone strips one out trying to loosen it counterclockwise.

* Stocking the lefty nuts and rod ends has become an inventory hassle, and I can't blame Vans for having no truck with it. Even with the rods and nuts marked, we've had a couple other things in the shop ruined when someone tried to use the lefty parts or tools on them.

--Bob K.
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  #9  
Old 11-22-2017, 12:59 PM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Meridian ID, Aspen CO
Posts: 2,278
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The nuts are on the outside near the skin in my plane. I couldn't fit the bolt in from the outside. I was worried about the rudder cable getting snagged so I enclosed the cable in 1/2" cpvc pipe from in front of the spar, through the cabin and past the flaps section. I probably added 1/2 lb, but the cable can never get squished by the seat or on the flaps bolt. Worth it for me.
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O-320 D2A
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  #10  
Old 11-27-2017, 05:21 PM
tdk tdk is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Columbia, Maryland
Posts: 49
Default Thanks

Thanks for all the thoughts and suggestions. I put the nuts outboard, and added a guide to keep the rudder cable separated from the flap rod.

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Columbia, MD
RV-7 N616TK
Final assembly...
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