Fiberglass lower empennage fairing

After spending several hours trying to fit the vans lower fairing (F-994A and rubber strip) I decided it was fruitless trying to get it to fit properly. I had some gaps here and there and the rubber was so cut up it wasn't going to last very long. I also have some rework to do on the upper forward part of the fairing. I tried to rework that portion with some heat but it basically just warped it more and it is is kind of rippled. So I plan to jump into some fiberglass work. I do have some questions (very newbie):

I plan to trim away about 1-2 inches from the forward most portion of the upper fairing. How much overlap should I use when laying the new glass down?

How many layers of FIBERGLASS CLOTH 7781-50 from Spruce (8.95 oz) will it take to get the thickness of the current fairing? Should all the layers be made at one time?

Should I use full length strips, running from HS rear to HS front, when making the lower fairing? Or will it matter to use shorter ones which would probably be easier.

Should I use peel ply on everything I glass? Does it matter which direction the peel ply runs?

Should I use any release agent other than the packing tape I have applied?

Will cabosil be needed to thicken the resin or will the wetted fiberglass strips just "stick".

Here is a picture showing my plastic mold for the lower fairing. I do need to trim the lower part to be shorter and more even.

I recommend you use RA 7725 Spruce P/N 01-00642 and be sure it is cut on a bias so the cloth drapes in the curves properly. The layup should be done with all plies at the same time; the BID referenced above is .012"-.015" per ply. You should scarf the existing fairing at least 1" and be sure to lay-up 1 ply on the inside lapping at least 1" on to the inside of the existing fairing after the primary lay-up is cured to prevent peeling. You can make this layup with each ply a single piece of glass as it is a simple shape and the bias-cut BID will easily conform to the shape you have. Personally I wouldn't use peel ply as it generally makes the finishing process more effort. If you do want to use peel ply I suggest 1" strips.

NO Cabosil or fillers in the layup! You might look around for a local EZ or Cozy builder to assist as this is a simple task for someone who has done some glass work.

Dick

ply

Dan Horton has a great guide on just what your doing when he made his own search for it.
Bob

Denis, jump over to the fiberglass section, read the first sticky:

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/forumdisplay.php?f=106

Dick, you're a bad, bad man....suggesting a newbie should use strips of bias cut while working upside down. The neighbors will find him in the corner of his garage, starved to death, tangled up in a cured epoxy cocoon

DanH said:

Denis, jump over to the fiberglass section, read the first sticky:

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/forumdisplay.php?f=106

Dick, you're a bad, bad man....suggesting a newbie should use strips of bias cut while working upside down. The neighbors will find him in the corner of his garage, starved to death, tangled up in a cured epoxy cocoon

Click to expand...

Haha! I did suggest the OP find a plastic airplane builder who might show him the trick of laying up the bias BID on the bench over a sheet of Visqueen and then making the "inverted rejoin" easy. Alternatively wet out the plane and then apply the first ply of BID dry and use the heat gun to draw the epoxy into the BID via stippling.
You can laugh at me when I begin riveting on the -14

Dan, I just read your sticky - all very good advice!

Dick