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  #121  
Old 03-17-2018, 03:14 PM
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TomVal TomVal is offline
 
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Several comments were made concerning the difficulty of inserting the spacing washers during the stabilizer install.

Ref: SB-18-02-02
Step 4: Taking note of the washers used between the Hinge Brackets and pivot Bearings for reuse later, disconnect the Stabilator Assembly from the Tailcone Assembly as shown in KAI Page 10-05 and KAI Page 11-03.

Refer to the KAI references above, it will instruct you during the assembly process to bond the washers to the inside of the bracket assemblies. This will facilitate an easier stabilizer install. Then all you have to mess with is aligning each bracket assembly with its respective bearing then insert the hinge bolts.

I'll be installing the stab tomorrow.. Just hope I don't have to mess with the turnbuckles.

Regards,
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Last edited by TomVal : 03-17-2018 at 07:42 PM.
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  #122  
Old 03-19-2018, 01:18 AM
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Default HS Brackets & Nutplate

In Step 19 of the SB it says to rivet a K1000-4 nutplate to the HS-1231A & HS-1231B hinge bracket using two AN426AD3-4 rivets. It doesn't say to countersink the HS-1231A first for the rivet head. Is that an oversight? Thanks.
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  #123  
Old 03-19-2018, 06:24 AM
Dave12 Dave12 is offline
 
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Might just be implied.
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  #124  
Old 03-19-2018, 08:56 AM
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I agree Kevin, I think it's just implied based on the AN426 rivet callout.
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  #125  
Old 03-26-2018, 11:23 PM
aviti aviti is offline
 
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Regarding the horn doublers being added in the SB, I read this:

Step 8: Drill #40 the six locations marked on the WD-1207 Stabilator Horn into the HS-01232 Stabilator Horn Doubler and HS-1211 Spar Cap.


It's saying to drill #40 holes into the 6 marked locations in the horn and drill through the doubler as well as the spar cap? Since you are flush riveting the doublers from the bottom through the horn, you wouldn't want to drill into the spar cap right? The pictures in this thread seem consistent with my thoughts but the SB instructions confuse me.

Am I reading the instructions wrong for this step or are the instructions incorrect?

Tony Vitiello
Ballwin, MO
RV-12 ELSA
Tail kit in progress
ULS Fuse kit next

Last edited by aviti : 03-26-2018 at 11:27 PM.
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  #126  
Old 03-27-2018, 12:44 AM
rv9builder rv9builder is offline
 
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Tom,

Read post #1, 2 and 4 in this thread. I think it will answer your question.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=157967
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  #127  
Old 03-27-2018, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aviti View Post
Am I reading the instructions wrong for this step or are the instructions incorrect?
I had the same confusion. I decided not to drill those 6 holes into the spar cap. I cleco'd everything in place and drilled the 6 holes thru the horn, just deep enough to mark the doubler, then took it apart and drilled the holes through, did the countersink and riveting, then installed them. I am guessing that Van's just decided it would be easier to drill right into the cap, even though the holes would not be used, 6 #40 holes into the cap is probably not a big deal (actually 12 holes if you count top and bottom horns). I just didn't want to do it that way. Hope that makes sense.
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  #128  
Old 03-27-2018, 05:08 AM
vic syracuse vic syracuse is online now
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It's not a big deal. Consider them lightening holes.
It's easier to insure everything stays aligned to just drill them while on the spar.

Vic
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  #129  
Old 03-27-2018, 07:53 AM
funflying funflying is offline
 
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I drilled 2 all the way through to get good alignment then finished drilled the others off the spar. Worked well for me at final installation.
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  #130  
Old 03-27-2018, 08:20 AM
aviti aviti is offline
 
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Thanks for the replies. Sounds like there are multiple ways to accomplish this as long as everything stays aligned.

One other question. Iím doing this SB on a new build, not after the fact as most are. Therefore my spar assembly is only clecoed at this point so I can disassemble to debur holes and clean chips inside the spar cap.

Iím curious about leaving burrs or chips inside parts you canít access. I guess itís just something you have to do and not worry about chips loose inside parts in cases like this? I suppose you can debur holes from the outside but how would you remove metal shavings?

Iíve had this issue when I have the rudder skins mostly riveted and have to slightly ream out matched holes to insert a pulled rivet. I use a #30 reamer and go really slow to minimize chips/burrs but still get a few shavings on the bottom side of the hole.

I havenít yet had to drill out a rivet that I couldnít access the stem but it will probably drive me crazy if I have to leave a rivet stem inside my wing or something.
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