Cutting nose cone cutouts

Just about finished installing the nose cone. One thing I would do different if I used a coping hand saw to cut the cut outs (carpenters tool) and it worked perfect. Very fine cut good control and fast cut, what could be better. The instructions have you cut the inside line and sand the remainder of the line off for control of not cutting too large of a hole. The problem (if you call it a problem, I do) is after you are finished and then use the cutouts for the filler piece behind the prop. blade, the extra you sanded off ( thickness of wide marker line) is the width of the gap you have between the cone and the filler piece. Had I carefully cut with the coping saw the outboard side of the line I would have had less than a 1/16" gap. I now have about a 1/8" gap that I added glass to tonight to close the gap on both sides.
This is only my opinion take care cutting yours.

Ron B. said:

Just about finished installing the nose cone. One thing I would do different if I used a coping hand saw to cut the cut outs (carpenters tool) and it worked perfect. Very fine cut good control and fast cut, what could be better. The instructions have you cut the inside line and sand the remainder of the line off for control of not cutting too large of a hole. The problem (if you call it a problem, I do) is after you are finished and then use the cutouts for the filler piece behind the prop. blade, the extra you sanded off ( thickness of wide marker line) is the width of the gap you have between the cone and the filler piece. Had I carefully cut with the coping saw the outboard side of the line I would have had less than a 1/16" gap. I now have about a 1/8" gap that I added glass to tonight to close the gap on both sides.
This is only my opinion take care cutting yours.

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I used a piece of aluminum for the gap for this reason on my 7. I did use a coping saw, but not knowing the exact finished dimension, the removed piece was not the right size anyway. I think the piece can be "lengthened" pretty easy with some epoxy fox mixture and sanding before riveting, if it is just a kerf issue.

I think you mis-read or misunderstood the instructions.......

Ron B. said:

Just about finished installing the nose cone. One thing I would do different if I used a coping hand saw to cut the cut outs (carpenters tool) and it worked perfect. Very fine cut good control and fast cut, what could be better. The instructions have you cut the inside line and sand the remainder of the line off for control of not cutting too large of a hole. The problem (if you call it a problem, I do) is after you are finished and then use the cutouts for the filler piece behind the prop. blade, the extra you sanded off ( thickness of wide marker line) is the width of the gap you have between the cone and the filler piece. Had I carefully cut with the coping saw the outboard side of the line I would have had less than a 1/16" gap. I now have about a 1/8" gap that I added glass to tonight to close the gap on both sides.
This is only my opinion take care cutting yours.

Click to expand...

The instructions specify to use a fine tooth hacksaw blade to make cuts on the straight portions of the openings. Then drill holes around the remainder, slightly inside the line and finish sand to the line.
On the portion where sanding will be required that area on the filler piece will be removed and thrown away so it doesn't matter if the trim line was excessive.
In the areas where the hacksaw blade was specified to be used, it will result in a gap between the spinner and the filler piece of about .040" - .050" after some light sanding, which is about perfect allowance for paint build-up.

BTW, the cutting being discussed is on the new rev. level of the spinner being shipped from now on. The screw locations and blade cutouts are pre-marked on the spinner for builders. For builders installing a fixed pitch prop, it will still be helpful by showing a starting point but will need to be adjusted accordingly.

BillL said:

but not knowing the exact finished dimension, the removed piece was not the right size anyway.

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See my previous post.
The spinner now comes with the opening pre-marked on the spinner for builders.

Scott , is there a revision already on this that I missed again as you might want to review rev.0 's wording?