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  #71  
Old 10-24-2018, 06:43 AM
Paul from Flyleds's Avatar
Paul from Flyleds Paul from Flyleds is offline
 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiljoy View Post
I got around to finally wiring up my Fly LED lights and making the breakers, switches, etc work. Gotta say I love them. I had to rewire it about 10 times to make sure all of the wires in the connectors were wired up correctly. Never blew any circuits and didn't ever see any smoke but it wasn't like I didn't try!
Love the picture! It wasn't that hard to put together was it?! I'm glad you passed the smoke test.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sblack View Post
I built the flyleds kit too. There was nobody more surprised than me when it all lit up first time! I am still a year (bwahaha) from flying but an RV10 on my field has the same lights and I saw him arrive in the evening and they looked great. I don't think there is a better value for nav/strobe lights. And building stuff is fun. The guy (Paul?) is very helpful and fun to deal with too. He seems to be one of us.
"One of us", huh? I'm honored! I'm not the owner but I did spend almost every weekend and plenty of hours at home over four or so years helping to build 'our' RV-10, so I think that qualifies! I loved the build process, and I can see why there are so many repeat offenders.

Having been soldering stuff for 40 years I thought I'd show you guys how easy it is to do with the Flyleds kit! Your feedback pleases me no end. I reckon riveting is much harder to do...

One bite of the elephant at a time...

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  #72  
Old 10-25-2018, 11:32 AM
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kiljoy kiljoy is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Alameda, CA
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Paul,

Your product rocks! All of my friends are very impressed with the brightness of the lights. That taillight blazes like the sun!

The soldering of the pieces was a piece of cake. Of course I still managed to solder in one of the wire connectors on BACKWARDS. They're sturdy and survived the fix.

I didn't use the supplied wire for the sub assembly connection. I used pieces of 3 conductor 18 ga for it. I'd recommend that as a good practice for terminating shields. Plus I have as much shielding as I can get since my magnetometer is going out into a wingtip.

Now making the dsub harness for the control board was interesting. I hadn't done a dsub where most of the wires coming in are 18ga. Its a tight fit but it works. That's where I got into trouble. I had black wire for the shields but everything else was white wire... which got me tripped up. Out of the 65+ connections I made I think I had 3 crossed and that ain't bad. No I didn't bother putting labels on every wire

-Kilroy


I have video of the entire wiring process including that Eureka moment. I'll be posting those over the next couple of weeks.
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  #73  
Old 12-04-2018, 01:32 AM
Mikeandmaz Mikeandmaz is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: England
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Good to see you back in the build seat
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