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EAA workbenches

TShort

Well Known Member
I visited the aviation department at Lowe's today to get materials to make my first bench ... was wondering if anyone had any interesting mods or suggestions before I get started. I'd forgotten how hard it was to surf thru and find enough straight 2x4s!
What about MDF vs. particle board? I'm thinking MDF for the top and something cheaper for the shelf underneath.

Also, how important is it to get the top surface perfectly straight and level?

It seems like I saw somewhere on someone's page an interesting way to level the legs - adjustable legs of some sort - anyone done this?

Thanks in advance!

Thomas
"preview plans" 8/8A
 
work bench

You can make a bench just about anyway you want to. Mine is anchored to the floor, has 6 drawers, a vice on one end and a grinder on the other, peg board on the wall behind it and the formica top. I like the formica because if you spill something it won't soak into the wood and it cleans easily
 
Workbench

Another suggestion was to make the top bigger or the frame smaller so there is a lip to clamp to.

Larry
 
EAA Workbench

Thomas,

I'm starting the fuselage on my 9A and I'm looking at replacing a couple of benches - now that I know what I want. I plan to use the EAA design (but about 2" taller) and use MDF for the top and make it replaceable so I can drill into it when I want to and not feel like I'm ruining the whole thing. Getting the top flat is going to be real important to me but the MDF board isn't hard to work with, imo. It wants to be flat. A replaceable flat top will help with your flaps and ailerons because the instructions have you drilling into the table (at least on the 9).

Having a lip to put a vise on isn't important to me because I have my vise attached to another bench with a lip that I'm not replacing. However, if you don't have a bench with a vise I'd sure think about building that feature in. I've also thought about adding some bench 'dogs' to hold parts but that's more important in woodworking than aircraft construction, in my experience.

Don 90702 Fuselage
www.propjock.com
 
EAA Workbench

TShort,
I built the EAA workbenches before I started my 7A. I made a few mods you might be interested in. One of the mods was the leveling legs you mentioned in your post. I found my basement floor was not as level as I would like and came up with leveling leg plan to remedy the problem. Also, I used MDF for the tops and 4X4's for the legs. Boy, are these suckers heavy. You can see my tables and modifications on my web site www.wesrv7a.com. Go to the "My Shop and Tools" link on the left when you get to my site. Happy building!! Wesflies
 
Bench

I also used an old solid core door under the top surface for added stability.
The top is larger than the door .... this lip comes in handy here and there.
The top now looks like swiss cheese after all the drilling (easily replaced).
Remember to get the hight correct for you as you will be doing a lot of
dimpling with your dimple table on top of this work bench.
Good luck on your building!
 
Don said:
Thomas,

I've also thought about adding some bench 'dogs' to hold parts but that's more important in woodworking than aircraft construction, in my experience.

Don 90702 Fuselage
www.propjock.com

Don, Is mine the kind of "Bench Dog" you were referring to!?!

DSCN1101.jpg


:D He loves it!

BTW, I used MDF and you should buy enough stuff to do 2 at a time. It is easier to build them in pairs, as the MDF can be cut prior to leaving Lowes and all your legs can be cut ahead of time and simultaneously.

They should be as flat as possible, as when it comes to doing your rudders and elevators, you need the jigs to be level with no twists. The MDF is super flat and is conducive to the job.

The benches are GREAT! You will love them!

;) CJ
 
EAA Shop Benches 3' X 8'

I would like to make the benches 3' X 8', with a 1-1/2" lip on two edges of each bench, so that when they are placed end to end there is a lip on the ends and front.

Do I need to add two more legs to the middle of each bench since they are getting long? I'm guessing I should?

I'm also wondering if this is to deep to put peg board behind for tools? I'm 6' tall with a long reach. What is your experience with this?
 
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I don't think it'll hurt to have more legs..

3'x5' worked out great for me. don't really need anything bigger, and for sure don't have any space for anything bigger... :) and MDF works great.. at 1/2 the price of plywood boards...
 
bench depth

RV-7 2004 said:
I'm also wondering if this is to deep to put peg board behind for tools? I'm 6' tall with a long reach. What is your experience with this?


Been there, thought of that, decided that my old 2.5 foot deep bench made it too hard to reach up to the upper 1/2 of the pegboard. Have since made a 2-ft deep bench that works perfectly. Rarely (almost never) do I need a deeper bench and besides, it's easier to use materials (e.g. plywood or MDF) more efficiently if you stick to 2-ft depth.

Steve
 
Bench height for back-riveting

For those who have already done some back riveting, what height of bench seems to work. The EAA design seems a little low to me, but maybe that's because for back riveting you need to be above the rivet gun and therefore need a lower table than otherwise. Any comments? (Obviously builder height matters, but since all builders are 5' 10" I'll take any suggestions).
Steve
 
In the hanger I was working out of for a while, we had two 3x8 tables. One had legs in the middle and the other didn't. Both work well. I liked the 3x8 size, too. The legs in the middle do help when you are pounding on things like the C-frame. The downside is that you can't shove the empanage box under it :)
 
EAA Workbenches

When you assemble the 2X4's framing for the top of the bench, do you pretap the location where the 3" X#10 phillips wood screws go besides just using the #10 countersink bit? I'm wondering if the wood could split if you don't get in further with a regular bit after countersinking? And what size bit to use?
 
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Alpine, I am an inch taller than you. I liked the standard 36" height. Remember, you will be standing over the rivet gun and work as well as the table.

2004, I predrilled them into the MDF. No need to c-sink. The MDF is pliable enuff to ignore this step. The tables don't have to fly, just the parts you make on top of them!

;) CJ
 
legs and supports 2X4, 4ft length or whatever is good for your height
top 2.5ft or 3ft X 6ft - particle board - seal the top or use towels or something similar to cover the work surface....and build the plane.
 
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