Condition Inspection Lessons

Andy (and others with flying nines),

I saw your post in the Checking In topic and you mention you're doing your second condition inspection. I'm just starting the fuselage and wondering what you and others with flying Nines are learning from your inspections. Is there anything you'd do differently or any suggestions you'd make to those still building in terms of an improvement to avoid problems?

Don

Condition inspection

Although I?m just starting my fuselage, I spoke to Ron Murray who just started flying his -9A and said he wishes he had used platenuts to hold the baggage floor in place. (He used them in the forward sections.)

Sounds like a lot of work (and weight) to put in all those p-nuts, but much easier than drilling out blind rivets if and when you run new wires.

Condition inspection lessons

Don said:

What you and others with flying Nines are learning from your inspections.

Don

Click to expand...

Areas that wear: include anything that moves...

I have had some issues with my nose gear fairing. Seems I cut it too short at the bottom and the clamp won't stay attached more than about 15 hours. So it's time to glass on an extension to it.

During the first inspection I replaced the rudder due to cracking from the TE rivets. My site details the issue, however the short version is, builder error caused it, and I had to replace it. Now it's time for the elevators to be replaced due to the same problem.

Other than that the Airframe is solid with no cracks or issues.

Biggest problem to date in 280hrs was the failure of the right brake. Lucky for me I was on the ground at the time. Looks like I over flared the alu brake lines where they attach to the brakes. That's where a crack developed and drained out all the fluid. In looking at the left side, there were marks left at the corner of the flare that indicated that I had spun too many turns into it during the initial flare. I rebuilt the left and everything has been fine since.

Still on my original brakes and tires thus far at 280hrs, I will be checking them closely. I did replace the tubes at 40hrs with airleak stopper tubes to keep from having to re-inflate so often. Works great now.

FWF, I had a small fuel leak develop around the gas collator, turned out to be a problem with the angle fitting going into it. Intication was a blue stain on the bottom and side of the case.

I am having a bit of wear show up on the arm of the carb heat door as the wire & bug nut assembly was not tight fitting and over time has vibrated the hole larger. Will eventually require a new arm to be riveted to the heat door.

I have polished it once about a year ago, and it's time to do it again... But... Well... You know... Paint is much easier to keep up, but I like the polished look!



So in the end, nothing major, just the kind of stuff you find maintaining your own airplane as the years go by... The fun part is flying! Last summer we flew coast to coast, hour after hour at 180mph TAS 10.5K & 11.5K smooth and steady all day long. Was a pleasure to fly and see the country.

Polish

Looks good. Any perls of wisdom about your polishing experience? I'm thinking of going with a paint-n-polish scheme on my 8....

Polishing

well, Thus far I have only polished it once. It's now time to do it again... Ihae Looked at All the polishing Sites, but thus for have Just used Some Flitz and a basic orbital car buffer & Wool bonnet that brightened it up a bit, but did not remove Scratches. Next will be the full Nuvite treatment to really shine it up! I find that you need to polish about once per year, As long as you are not worried about "show plane" Quality.

Where Can I Buy Tubes that Don't Leak

Andy,

You mentioned airleak stopper tubes. Who makes them and where can I buy some.

I rent a 172 now and everytime I go to fly I have to add air to at least the nose tire.

I don't want to be adding air every other day.

Thanks

Jim Bray
Gonna Fly This Year

I got the Michelen tubes & Goodyear tires from Desser Tire & Rubber company.

500-5 MICHELIN AIRSTOP TUBE (TR-67 VALVE) for 41.95 each! Yikes.

Work great and really hold the air pressure.

First Flight

RV-9, N92GC, made it's first flight this morning at Ancient Oaks Airpark, Steinhatchee, Florida. Being a two time builder, N76GC, RV-6.
I can truly say the Nine is a pleasure to fly. It is very docile in the air and on the ground. The six was a great airplane. But I believe the Nine is a improvement. Are there any other Nine's in the North Florida area? Gerry Chancey

I'm in north Florida

Congratulations!! Didn't know you were over there in Steinhatchee. I'm in Gainesville and almooooosssst ready to fly. I'll fly over and we can exchange notes and you can show me where the redfish and trout are located. Jack RV9A N489JE

RV-9 & Fishing

Come on over. We slayed the Trout, Redfish, and one Flouder, a week ago. But we had to release the trout as trout season is closed. Would be happy to exchange info with in regards to Nine. I am here most of the time. Our Phone is 352 498 7142. Gerry

Polishing

Andy, really like that blue color you chose, looks sharp. Are you concerned with the polishing that you will remove the thin alclad coating??

Eric

I guess you could if you get crazy with the polishing... From what I have read, the polishing process levels out some of the material that is already there and does not actually remove much at all during the process. Remember that before painting most people take scotchbright to the entire surface and scratch it all up to hold the paint on.

I guess either method works to some extent...

Condition Inspection & Lessons Learned

Inspecting and maintaining is unique from building, using some unique skills and tools, but lots of fun.

Get Help: If you have not owned/maintained a plane before don't be shy about getting help from friends or even better a friend who has maintenance, A&P or AI experience. Good "inspectors" have calibrated Mark VI eyeballs for seeing maintenance issues you might miss. THey know what to look for RV or Piper. An extra set of eyes is always good. Also you can learn the techniques, tools, materials and supplies need from them: repack bearings, cut filters, clean plugs, grease prop hubs, replace bake pads, oil change and using mirrors/lights looking for wear, cracks and fretting (parts rubbing together). If you need to repair something, that is where your builder skill comes in. After you get the hang you can solo. I learned a lot working with AI on my first time thru.

Brakes: If they look worn but have a little more life, replace them. They are cheap and as the puck extends further to account for the pad wear, the puck tends to bind more (brake drag).

Vans Air Box: Is cleaver and works well but is begging to crack where it attaches to the carb. Using a strap off the engine to stabilize the cantilever front is a must. It helps it from shaking and bending that mount plate. If you do get a crack, make a new one out of thicker plate, 2024 or better 6061. Make sure there are no sharp corners, rough edges or burrs.

Oil Cooler / Baffle: Is a prime area for cracks. Consider moving the cooler just off the baffle and onto the engine mount, using a flex duct to connect it to the rear baffle air supply. You will eliminate future problems.

Carb Heat Cable: Do yourself a favor, if you have the simple wire type replace it with a real cable. It is a matter of time before it cracks. A real cable is like a typical cable control used for the throttle or mixture. It uses a solid #10 threaded shaft on the end. The simple control knob and cable sleeve are not as heavy duty as the throttle, but key is the solid threaded end at the engine that won?t break like a thin wire. They cost a little more, but they will last for a long time. Wire types lasts 100-200 hours max.

Repairs: Now's the time. Take your time and do it right. It will pay dividends in reliability. If it did not work or broke, ask yourself why? Just putting a patch on it or replacing it may only delay the next failure, not fix it.

Major Change / Mods: Use caution on how it might affect other systems. Always do a functional check of everything you touch before you cover it up. I did a Booboo once when I removed the carb to fix the airbox. OK, I put the carb back, airbox back and cable. I noticed the performance was a little off. Cowl came off again. Everything looked right. The throttle was not fully opening. Woops. I forgot to verify the butterfly moved full range to the stop. I put the cable in the wrong throttle control arm hole. I moved the cable to the correct position and filled the other holes with rivets to assure not using them by accident.

Get or make a good maintenance / inspection lists, like ones off the internet from other builders. Add and subtract as needed from experience.


Cheers George, RV-4 , RV-7 project