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RV-7A JCarne

Thanks for posting the link to that. I'm seriously debating just molding my own snorkle. The snorkle alone from Van's is $275! Anyone have any reasons not to go down this road?

Based on my VAF research, people have done both with good success. I thought I'd try chopping up my snorkel first to see if it would work, then if not, build my own. Worked great for me.
 
Well dang... I violated the golden rule of fiberglass when I was making my rear skirt; get your forms right!

After some sanding and filling I just wasn't happy with how the rear skirt was coming out. The top I got to look great but the bottom where no-one would ever see looked like a horror show. There was also a little gap on the right side that was just a little too big for my liking probably due to fill I put on the bottom in an attempt to make it look nicer. I just can't live with knowing imperfections like that are there so I decided to make a new one.

I went with a different approach this time by taping off the fuse and then filling/forming the shape a bit with some body filler and eventually micro mix. You can see what I mean in the next two pics.

20190713_154003 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

20190713_154010 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I think part of the reason the tape got a little saggy before was because it was strong enough to actually pull the canopy back a little bit. So this time I clamped the canopy in the forward position ( doesn't take a ton of force) and put a popsickle stick in between the frame and the pin mount block to hold it open ever so slightly. This way when it is closed it will close of up any minor gaps.

20190713_153951 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

20190713_153955 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Overall the form is looking waaaaay better this time. I will lightly sand it tomorrow and put another coat on to fill any low spots. I'm waiting on more fiberglass so I will get to laying this up again in a few days. I also wasn't overly thrilled with the strength of 4 layers so I think I'm going to go with 5 or even more likely 6 this time. Anyways, you win some and lose some just gotta keep on truckin! :D
 
Well I'm waiting on some fiberglass right now so let's get some more done on the wings.

I decided to get the bottom skins all dimpled and riveted to the wings after doing anything else inside I needed to. After watching some videos of others it is definitely something I can do myself. It's not as bad as I thought it was going to be either.

Right wing all finished.

20190716_122359 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Now there is a bit of a story to these next two pics. I remember back in the day last year saying "I should probably install the stall warner before riveting the leading edge to the spar". I didn't listen to myself and it reaaaaally bit me in the butt. It took almost two hours to put two screws in and get the wiring in. The black screws are allens and they can only be turned about one or two flats at a time through an access that your arm BARELY fits through. It was a royal pain and anyone building their wings reading this INSTALL THIS BEFORE RIVETING THE LEADING EDGE TO THE WING!!!.

20190716_152104 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

The carnage 3 hours later...

20190716_200025 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
 
I have been waiting on more fiberglass so I continue to finish some things up on the wings. I have mounted the ailerons and flaps, it was quite fun actually.

One wing

20190718_173959 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Two wing

20190720_135239 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

The fiberglass arrived on Friday so yesterday I laid up another rear skirt. This one is looking much better already.

20190720_135250 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Super sad I'm not at Oshkosh this year but hey gotta get it done so I can hopefully fly there next year!
 
Ok I'm a little behind on posting more on the rear skirt. She is pretty much done this time and it came out beautiful on the second try!

Putting the micro on. This one didn't require much filling at all.

20190721_160422 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

The next day I sanded the micro down and only had three little areas that needed a bit of Evercoat. Put on four squeegy epoxy coats and waited over night. The next morning sanded it down to a perfectly smooth surface... the final sanding.

20190723_111721 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Look how good it fits on the fuse!!!

20190723_111728 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I primed the fairing today but didn't get a pic of it on the plane so I'll try and take one tomorrow. It looks great.

In the meantime while I have been waiting for epoxy to cure I have been working on the wingtips. I am going with the hinge attachment method. This method definitely takes some time but overall it isn't too bad.

Now there are two camps on when to do your wingtips.

Camp 1: do it anytime after getting the ailerons properly aligned on the wings with the tooling holes.

Camp 2: wait until you have your wings mounted because your flap mating with the fuselage may dictate where your ailerons will actually be neutral.

Camp 1 made the most sense to me since your ailerons being set with the tooling holes seemed the most important to me. If your flaps don't fully retract before hitting the fuselage you have some kind of error built in to your system and in my mind the poor way to "fix" that is by lowering your ailerons and inducing unnecessary drag. The better approach in that situation seems to me to joggle the protruding flap skin (where it touches the bottom of the fuselage) a bit so that it fully retracts.

Anyways, here is a pic of what I have done. I also bonded the inner hinge into the tips tonight. Tomorrow I should be able to rivet everything together and start working on the plexi covers.

20190723_130938 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
 
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Nice looking set! How is the temperature out there in WY?

Thanks Kent. It has been about 95F as a high which translates to about 105-106F in the garage with doors open. I use a fan that helps a bit but it's still freakin hot! I keep a thermometer in the garage so I know those numbers on spot on.
 
Thanks Kent. It has been about 95F as a high which translates to about 105-106F in the garage with doors open. I use a fan that helps a bit but it's still freakin hot! I keep a thermometer in the garage so I know those numbers on spot on.

So, it's -40F in the winter and over 100F in the summer...sounds like a paradise! That was sarcasm Jereme, haha.

The RV looks great all the same!
 
So, it's -40F in the winter and over 100F in the summer...sounds like a paradise! That was sarcasm Jereme, haha.

The RV looks great all the same!

Haha I hear ya man, I wonder why I live here in the summers and winters but nothing beats good ole Wyoming!
 
Ok here are the final pics of the rear skirt. It came out great, just need to drill the side skirts to the skirt braces, rivet and Sika the skirts on and the canopy is done! :D

20190724_190008 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

20190724_190017 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

The wingtip work continues. These are taking forever! After the epoxy cured that helps secure the hinges it was time for some countersinking and riveting.

20190724_110249 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I also got one of the lenses fit how I like. I had to do quite a bit of sanding of the gel coat to get these to fit just right. I notice I will also have to do quite a bit of sanding on the tips to get rid of them seams from the factory. Anyways I'll try and do most of that tomorrow so I can hopefully get these primed this weekend.

20190724_185959 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
 
Carne!

That work looks, Awesome brother! Really good and finely finished.
I bet that glass went off super fast!

So, the wingtips are Bullock style applique, was that a lot of work? Did you use the .020 filler piece? Do you have any process photos?

Just a few questions
 
Carne!

That work looks, Awesome brother! Really good and finely finished.
I bet that glass went off super fast!

So, the wingtips are Bullock style applique, was that a lot of work? Did you use the .020 filler piece? Do you have any process photos?

Just a few questions

Ya I followed the document that Mike B posted on his site. See if this link takes you there. No 0.020 filler, just used the fiberglass flange that I cut off, seems to work well.

The only thing I did different is I did not take the top hinge all the way to the forward most hole and I'm glad I didn't. It is a bear to get that top hinge in! On the last hole I installed a nutplate instead. I'll have to undo a screw that holds the pins anyway so what is one more? :)
 
Well I got the skirts all attached with rivets and Sika. It came out pretty good and I even got the latch handle pretty much done.

I'm calling the canopy done at this point. :D

20190731_111541 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Yesterday I even finished cutting and polishing the windscreen edges. The fit is pretty good and I'm almost done making the little clips. I will put this puppy in a safe place for when I'm ready to attach it.

20190731_145623 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

After I modify the front top skin for some defrost fans I think I will start on some electrical work while I wait for the new engine mount.
 
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Jereme,
You are going to go with the new mount? I talked to them, Vans, about it and there seems to be many changes to the stuff on the firewall and its locations for the new mount. Is this your understanding?

Great work by the way!
 
Looks amazing!

on the chance to sound like a broken record... you go man! you are going to be done soon and from the pics it really looks like a show plane in the making! keep it up and thanks for taking the time to share.
 
Jereme,
You are going to go with the new mount? I talked to them, Vans, about it and there seems to be many changes to the stuff on the firewall and its locations for the new mount. Is this your understanding?

Great work by the way!

Well when I look at the pics it doesn't seem like too much will change. The only things I see maybe being an issue is the fuel supply fitting and the throttle cable. The big rubber isolator seems to be a couple inches away from the firewall. So, there is enough room to use 90 degree or maybe even a 45 degree fuel hose. The throttle cable may be an issue but time will tell, if that's the only thing I have to move I would be happy, although I still think there is enough room to snake it around the isolator. The only other thing in this area (center of firewall) is the cabin heat box and it looks like it will clear it no problem if you count the rivets on the firewall.

on the chance to sound like a broken record... you go man! you are going to be done soon and from the pics it really looks like a show plane in the making! keep it up and thanks for taking the time to share.

No problem and thanks for the kind words! Broken records sound good sometimes too. :D

I don't know about the showplane capability though. haha
 
Man it's been awhile since I posted an update. Probably due to the back to school grind. Gotta educate the people of tomorrow! :D

I have spent quite a lot of time over the last month working on getting my SolidWorks model situated as best I can and finishing up electrical planning. I recently also started some wiring. I just ordered my radio center stack so it should be getting fun real soon!

After finalizing my design with the helpful input of many on VAF I decided to go ahead and start cutting the panel. It's going great so far, only a few holes left. I am mainly doing this when I get burnt out on something else, no rush.

20190825_202846 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I also ran most of the wires through the wings. I still need to run the coax out to the Archer nav antenna in the right wing. No big deal, fishing wires through this conduit is a piece of cake.

20190825_170603 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I also ran the wires to the flap motor and position sensor (that is still in the mail as of me writing this) and did up a molex connector. Them open barrel pins definitely take a little more care and patients than the rest. I did not take a picture of it but I also used the same connector for the fuel pump.

20190825_170625 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I crimped on some sockets for a D-sub that goes to the roll servo. Making sure that the insulation is ever so slightly off from contacting the pin.

20190824_161335 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Then assembled the dsub and made sure to double up the heat shrink where the wires exit the conduit.

Not gonna lie, this was one of the funnest tasked I have done this entire build. I'm looking forward to more of this.

20190825_170556 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Installed these bad boys on the panel with nutplates. Panel wiring begins!

20190825_170538 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Soldered up the mic and headset jacks per the GMA 245 installation manual. Nice to be soldering and wiring things again. Takes me back to my HVAC days.

20190825_120716 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I also installed a little tray underneath the passenger seat pan for wing root connections. Many argue that this is not necessary and I agree. However, I also agree with many others that it keeps the ball rolling while the plane is in the garage and not the hangar. Finally, I personally have never heard of this every causing problems, especially if well crafted.

The right side has 8 screw terminals, 7 for the autopilot servo and 1 for the landing and taxi light ground. All the other lighting wires go to the FlyLEDs controller which will be mounted later in the same area. (probably the outer bay)

On a side note: I should probably replace that horrific rivet! lol

20190825_170513 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Installed a 5 terminal version on the left side for pitot heat, fuel cap, and stall warning.

20190825_170531 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Stay tuned for my 3 day weekend. haha Hoping to get a lot more done.
 
Your plane is so CLEAN inside! I am envious. Great work Jereme, looking great as par usual. Keep it coming I am mimicking what you are doing.
 
The three day weekend and after work has been kind to me this week. Got lots accomplished while I still wait for the new motor mount.

First I installed the backup ADAHRS unit. It sits a little higher than the one on the right so that is why the aluminum tubing support is off a bit. It also just occurred to me that the adel clamps and screw I used are ferrous, I may need to change this (although there is some ferrous metal in the backshells and connector as they come from Dynon). I also need to add a little RTV on the OAT wires where they come off the rib as a little bit of anti chafe.

20190831_162614 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Ran the network wire down to the newly installed hub.

20190831_164830 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Did some reworking of the shunt and ANL setup so that I could get an ANL before the shunt. The alt. B lead will come off of the first ANL output so now the shunt will see total current going to buses. Not that it really matters, it's just a "cool" number that doesn't really have much use in flight. Also, yes I know the second ANL is redundant but it's already there and installed. In theory it's only job is protecting the wire from the alternator load (the way it's wired here). I could get rid of it and just run a feeder off the master contactor like many do but to be honest I don't like the thought even though it's approved and acceptable. Not to mention, when was the last time you heard of an ANL blowing for no reason? It takes a whooooole lot more than 60amps to blow a 60amp limiter in short order.

20190902_084600 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Next I installed the pos-12 sensor for the flap positioning system. This took longer than expected but it's finally done. I need to wrap a little anti chafe around the wires and it will be done. For anyone interested you will need a DG16 clamp and the travel is pretty much perfect when it is up against the welded doubler on the flap weldment.

20190902_173201 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Lastly, I mounted up the radio stack trays to some angle. I spaced them a little more than 0.050" and used some 0.063" angle to mount them to. This took a bit of time and I ended up doing it twice as I wasn't paying attention to how far back/forward they need to be set. I am going with rear insert to cover up the instrument panel edges. Now I just need to trim up them screws and mount it to the instrument panel.

20190905_190948 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Next up, cut the sub panel for the radio stack and add some support. More on that this weekend.
 
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Panel work is still going strong. Had to cut an opening in the sub panel. I used 0.063 angle to reinforce it, maybe a little overkill but hey it works and the weight increase is small.

20190907_181900 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Finished fabricating the radio stack tray mounts. These will be held onto the panel with six #8 screws into nutplates.

20190907_181918 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

After making sure everything fit nicely I deided to put in a couple of items just for fun. (and to make sure they fit)

20190907_140536 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Next I added the holes for the dimmers I'm using and then it was off to paint.

20190908_150457 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Standby for what I'm going to do for labeling. I may or may not have access to a CO2 laser. :D
 
Quick Question

Jereme,
Very nice and clean build, QQ, what is the green, grey and black primers you are using? Not that I want to start a debate on prime or not to prime but I am priming some parts and find that everything I've tried is very fragile to nicks etc. Thanks and good luck with your build... I'm working on tail cone and mid fuselage....
 
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Jereme,
Very nice and clean build, QQ, what is the green, grey and black primers you are using? Not wanted to start a debate on prime or not to prime but I am priming some partners not all and find that everything I tried is very fragile to nicks etc. Thanks and good luck with your build... I'm working on tail cone and mid fuselage....

Thanks Dave!

As for the primers. Here we go. Where you see green it is Akzo found here.

The black is Jetflex L09028 interior paint on top of Akzo primer. The gray is Jetflex L09016 interior paint on top of Akzo.

The wingtips and anywhere else fiberglass is primed with Kirker Enduro Prime.

If you are going for primer I HIGHLY recommend Akzo. That stuff is super strong and sticks very very well to the aluminum.
 
Wow!!! Very nicely done Jeremy. It I may ask, what did you use to make the square cutouts in the instrument panel with.
 
Wow!!! Very nicely done Jeremy. It I may ask, what did you use to make the square cutouts in the instrument panel with.

Thanks for the kind words!

I used a jigsaw with a metal blade to make the rough cut. Then filed it down and then cleaned it up with sandpaper. I use 400 grit turners cloth as it is really strong.
 
Excellent as usual Jereme!
Where do you source your Jetflex?

I just received more wire supplies...not sure what to do with it...haha
 
Excellent as usual Jereme!
Where do you source your Jetflex?

I just received more wire supplies...not sure what to do with it...haha

I got my Jetflex through Skygeek. You will also need reducer and catalyst. It is definitely not cheap stuff. I would be very tempted to just use the water based stuff Jeflex sells next time. I wonder how it holds up in the long run compared to the solvent based stuff I used.
 
I got my Jetflex through Skygeek. You will also need reducer and catalyst. It is definitely not cheap stuff. I would be very tempted to just use the water based stuff Jeflex sells next time. I wonder how it holds up in the long run compared to the solvent based stuff I used.

My experience has been if it can't kill you, it doesn't work as well...
 
Well it's been a couple weeks but not due to a lack of work. I have been hard at it with wiring and panel work while I still wait for my engine mount. I would have REALLY liked to save this panel work for the winter as it would be perfect inside stuff. It just didn't pan out that way though.

Anywaaays...

I decided to use some coated aluminum called Durablack to make all of my panel labels. This worked spectacularly! The Durablack meets a milspec and has some impressive environment testing on it. I bought some Durablack in 0.020" and 0.005". The 0.020" for a sheet of 12" x 20" was about 35 bucks from johnsonplastics, it also has a very nice adhesive backing (although you can get it without if you want). This size sheet was more than enough. The 0.005" was a little harder to work with, didn't shear as well and honestly really, really thin. The thin stuff would be great if you wanted to curve a label; however, everything on the panel is flat so 0.020" it was. This was also a great opportunity to teach my new classes this year how to use our laser engraver. Those of you that use a laser engraver know what a reaaaal treat it is getting the power and speed settings just right for a new material is. It took us quite some time but in the end we got something that worked awesome.

The Durablack material is quite unique in the sense that it is not anodized aluminum in the traditional sense. When you laser engrave anodized aluminum you are left with bare aluminum underneath that doesn't contrast as good as some other colors. The Durablack once engraved actually turns a rather bright white that contrasts nicely. Here is a closeup of a couple labels. There was also the added bonus of engraving center marks for the center punch so you could drill em out! :D

20190916_175224 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I also got my switches TEMPORARILY installed. lol Yes I will make the hex nuts in the front all even. These are all Honeywell TL series switches. You can tell they are high quality stuff with a good switch feel to them.

20190925_191909 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Here is the panel in the aircraft before the switches were put in. Dang it sure is starting to look good!

20190922_172126 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I also installed a couple of electrical trays behind the panel. Fuse blocks and various electronics such as my EMS will go here for easy access.

20190922_172106 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I am also starting to get the classic airplane spaghetti going on. haha Good thing I have all them wires nicely labeled.

20190922_172140 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Let me know what you all think and if anyone has any questions on that material I used for labeling just let me know.
 
Laser engraver specs

Jereme, what wattage does the engraver have that you're using on this material? Do you have a model number of the one you're using?
Thanks
Wb
 
Jereme, what wattage does the engraver have that you're using on this material? Do you have a model number of the one you're using?
Thanks
Wb

I am using a Muse laser from Full Spectrum Laser. It is a 45W machine but I don't know how accurate that number really is as I had to go with quite a bit more power than what Durablacks starting point document recommended. The document is in the link below. I am using 80% power and 70% speed. However, I would be willing to bet my mirrors are a bit on the dirty side and need cleaned. Hope this helps.

https://dura.black/wp-content/themes/twentyfourteen-child-db/assets/durablack-process-guide.pdf
 
I think it is great! but how do you know where all those wires go? Furthermore, how did you come to a final plan?

We can chat this weekend if you have time Jereme.
 
I think it is great! but how do you know where all those wires go? Furthermore, how did you come to a final plan?

We can chat this weekend if you have time Jereme.

Yep this weekend sounds good Kent.

Long story short a wire only has two ends on it thank goodness lol!

Reading the manuals enough will eventually get you to the point where you know where things are supposed to go. It just takes time that's for sure. First I decided where all the electronics/avionics are going to live. After that and some more planning I started running wire runs. This is where the manuals come in, they pretty much all have wiring diagrams that you can follow. Some people I have found will go to GREAT lengths and make a wiring diagram for everything. I don't feel like I really know every in and out at this point to do this first. Therefore, I am running wires where they need to be and will then make a diagram of where they went. Also, while running the wires I put heat shrink labels on both ends of the wires. This is definitely one of those parts of the build where if you analyze it to death first you will never get anywhere (at least that is how I felt). Just start running wires and it all comes together. There will be mistakes but they are easy to fix for the most part. Mistakes usually seem to be in the form of forgetting to run a wire which is no big deal to fix.
 
Yep this weekend sounds good Kent.

Long story short a wire only has two ends on it thank goodness lol!

Reading the manuals enough will eventually get you to the point where you know where things are supposed to go. It just takes time that's for sure. First I decided where all the electronics/avionics are going to live. After that and some more planning I started running wire runs. This is where the manuals come in, they pretty much all have wiring diagrams that you can follow. Some people I have found will go to GREAT lengths and make a wiring diagram for everything. I don't feel like I really know every in and out at this point to do this first. Therefore, I am running wires where they need to be and will then make a diagram of where they went. Also, while running the wires I put heat shrink labels on both ends of the wires. This is definitely one of those parts of the build where if you analyze it to death first you will never get anywhere (at least that is how I felt). Just start running wires and it all comes together. There will be mistakes but they are easy to fix for the most part. Mistakes usually seem to be in the form of forgetting to run a wire which is no big deal to fix.

I like it!
Very realistic approach and at the same time moving forward!
 
Still in the thick of wiring.

Oh boy, here we go on this whole harness thing.

20190929_123126 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

The GMA 245 doesn't get a sub-panel cutout like the GTR 200 and GNS 430, there is only about an inch behind the connector to the subpanel so I had to turn them wires quickly. Looks like it came out pretty good. Let me know if there is a reason not to do this but I sure as heck can't think of anything.

20191005_134028 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

My panel looks like it is puking wires! :D Adel clamps here we come!

20191005_174037 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
 
What is all that! HAHA
Looking like I have a wiring expert to turn to in a few weeks!

Is that a hinge I see on the bottom of the panel? Is that stock/plan?

Nice work Jereme and neat and tidy.
 
What is all that! HAHA
Looking like I have a wiring expert to turn to in a few weeks!

Is that a hinge I see on the bottom of the panel? Is that stock/plan?

Nice work Jereme and neat and tidy.

Haha Thanks Kent.

The hinges are not stock but a lot of people add little drop down trays for electronics. You can see the little "tray" in this pic (I should probably call it a panel). On the left side I'm going to put 2 fuse blocks and my e-bus diode. The right side will get the Dynon EMS and battery bus with e-bus relay. Stay tuned for pics on that. :)

20190922_172106 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
 
Wiring continues. So far I am really liking this part of the build. Overwhelming at first but not too bad if you take it one wire at a time. This week I finished wiring my radio stack, glad that one is behind me, it seemed the most daunting.

Before...

20191012_212041 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

After! :D (don't pay too much attention to the zip ties, they are temporary for the most part)

20191013_123000 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I am mostly done behind the sub panel for now. Next I started installing the Dynon main harnesses. As you can see in the pic below I got all it takes to add the second screen if I ever want to. Just cut a few zip ties and bingo-bango.

20191013_173834 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
 
So happy that you are getting this together. It must be a great feeling of accomplishment!

Also, you can help me when my time comes!

It looks like you can use the cable ties to hold the wire runs together and then Adel clamp or thread tie and remove the cable ties. At least that is what I thought when I saw your photos.

Good work Jereme!
 
So happy that you are getting this together. It must be a great feeling of accomplishment!

Also, you can help me when my time comes!

It looks like you can use the cable ties to hold the wire runs together and then Adel clamp or thread tie and remove the cable ties. At least that is what I thought when I saw your photos.

Good work Jereme!

Thanks man!

Ya for some reason finishing the radio stack wiring gave me probably the most sense of accomplishment this entire build. Lots of reading, planning, researching, and wiring to get that one done. Don't forget I'm always a phone call away when you need it! :)

Yep you hit it on the head. I have seen others use clips to temporary wires but cheap zip ties seemed just as good. Although I honestly think zip ties get a bad rap sometimes on these forums. If you buy quality ones they will last a lifetime.

It's crazy though, right when you finish one big wiring job more awaits! haha It will end eventually. In the meantime it still looks like my panel is puking. lol Thank goodness for heat shrink label makers!

20191013_192156 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
 
Very nice work Jereme!

What are you using for doing your wire labels? I am about to start to do an upgrade to my -8 and really like the idea of labelling both ends to help orgainze the spaghetti.

I really like your panel labels too :)

Cheers!

Brant


Ya for some reason finishing the radio stack wiring gave me probably the most sense of accomplishment this entire build. Lots of reading, planning, researching, and wiring to get that one done.

It's crazy though, right when you finish one big wiring job more awaits! haha It will end eventually. In the meantime it still looks like my panel is puking. lol Thank goodness for heat shrink label makers!

20191013_192156 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr[/QUOTE]
 
What's the component with the cooling fins?

Nice work!

That good sir is the E-bus diode from Perihelion.

Very nice work Jereme!

What are you using for doing your wire labels? I am about to start to do an upgrade to my -8 and really like the idea of labelling both ends to help orgainze the spaghetti.

I really like your panel labels too :)

Cheers!

Brant

Thanks! I use heat shrink in a label maker. It is awesome! I use this label maker, these 1/4" cartridges, and these 3/8" cartridges. Highly recommend.
 
My new engine mount finally arrived!!! Time to put this puppy on gear!

When I opened the package the kiddo decided to help unpack. Future builder? :)

20191028_172010 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Drilling the mount was pretty straight forward. Still not entirely sure why Van's has you use the two plates with the notches. It's easy to spot if you are within 3/16ths before you drill so I skipped the two plates that get removed in the end anyways. I also didn't want to cut into my awesome titanium work! Worked beautifully!

20191102_144758 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Next I really had to bust the muscles out and lift the fuselage up while the wife slid a sawhorse under it. Even then, to get the main gear on I had to angle it a bit with a 4x4.

20191102_235042 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Fun fact about me, I find it very satisfying to install cotter pins when there is good access.

20191103_120310 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Dang she is a lot taller with all three gear on!!! I hope it squats down quite a bit with the engine and wings go on.

20191103_130327 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Here is a close up of the new nose gear setup. As you can see it doesn't really interfere with anything on the firewall in my case. The only things that will be slightly different is the fuel line will be a 45 degree fitting and the throttle cable will have to snake around the isolator region.

20191103_130332 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I also did some more wiring this weekend too but don't have any pics of that yet. I have all of the power off the buses ran. Now I just got to terminate a few more wires and do the EMS wiring and my panel will be pretty much done. I still have a fair amount of wiring to do FWF and at the sticks though.
 
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