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Automotive fuse/relay panel

svyolo

Well Known Member
Has anyone ever used a fuse/relay panel out of newer car for most of their fuses/relays? They are not aviation "pretty". I would hide it behind a hinged panel in the panel for easy access. You could use 2 or 3 identical ones if you needed that many, one could easily be your E-bus. I am looking at my new truck's fuse panel. It would be perfect.

Using one or two of these would eliminate a whole bunch of hand made terminals and wiring. It would make most of the electrical work "OEM auto grade". A lot of newer cars have them in the engine compartment. They are made to live in a harsh environment.

I would still have the circuits comply with aviation logic. A few fuses might still make it to the face of the panel for expediency.
 
Check out the electrical system in the 12.

I am adding a 6 fuse panel for things like my iPad charger, heated seats, and a few spare circuits. I have the VPSport and I ran put of circuits.
 
I like the idea of the VPX, but am not comfortable with it yet.

The reason for the automotive fuse/relay panel, is to eliminate some labor, and remove risk by having fewer hand made (by me) connections. From the wire into the relay, to the output wire downstream of the fuse, it is all "OEM automotive".

It will save labor, make it more reliable. As a side note, you could probably get all you want for 10 or 20 bucks a pop, including all the relays and way too many fuses. My Colorado has 6 identical relays, 5 sitting side by side. Plus a main relay and a couple of other big ones. I would guess most non luxury cars that is probably average. I am going to look at a couple of popular small cars (Civic, Corolla) and see what their panels look like.
 
So far my favorite from googling pics is a late model Honda Fit. Very neat and organized, and very compact.
 
I've used aftermarket ATO type fuse holders in my plane for 14 years, have 3 of them. Light, reliable and cheap. I only have one circuit breaker in the whole plane for the prop.
 
On my RV-10, I used three ATO blade fuse holders also behind the panel. On the -9A, I am think I may go with panel mounted holders like what is in the picture, one above each switch.
25330791918_9acaf3c53f.jpg
[/url]313RMHQchKL by David C, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
I like the idea of the VPX, but am not comfortable with it yet.

The reason for the automotive fuse/relay panel, is to eliminate some labor, and remove risk by having fewer hand made (by me) connections. From the wire into the relay, to the output wire downstream of the fuse, it is all "OEM automotive".

It will save labor, make it more reliable. As a side note, you could probably get all you want for 10 or 20 bucks a pop, including all the relays and way too many fuses. My Colorado has 6 identical relays, 5 sitting side by side. Plus a main relay and a couple of other big ones. I would guess most non luxury cars that is probably average. I am going to look at a couple of popular small cars (Civic, Corolla) and see what their panels look like.

I offer that taking such custom OEM products than adapting for your specific install will be days of extra work, a cobbled together mess and less reliavity than just doing this simple work yourself. Add to that less than aircraft quality connections and wire and the need to start over again if something breaks, you end up with a lot of cons and no pros.

There are many fuse holders that meet your need, like this one: http://www.steinair.com/product/12-circuit-fuse-block/

Get the right Faston connectors and crimping tool and you will be a master in 10 minutes:
http://www.steinair.com/product-category/terminals-tape/
http://www.steinair.com/product/ratcheting-crimper-frame-only/
http://www.steinair.com/product/insulated-terminal-die-only/

Running wire and making connections are just additional basic skills you learn in the building process. It will also serve you well going forward as you maintain your airplane.

Carl
 
Check out some of the fuse blocks offered in the Off Road vehicle or Boating aftermarket suppliers. They offer strips ranging from 6 fuses up to 20. Great if your schematic calls for split buss for main/avionics/essential etc.
Car fuse blocks usually break out the power sources from multiple circuits, relays incorporated in awkwardl arrangements, and would be messy to rewire.
 
Those Buss fuse holders are NOT compact. There is too much space between fuses. I purchased one of them and did not use it because:
1. The fuses are not compact.
2. The sockets do not grip the fuses tightly, thus could lead to failure.
3. Wires and fastons stick out towards the front and side, not rearward.
So I made my own fuse holder using a PCB and better quality FUSE CLIPS.
The 18 fuses are spaced just far enough apart to use a fuse puller. The wires exit straight out the back.
Do not let the reflection in the sheet metal confuse.
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I used a 24 circuit EATON-Bussmann 5713-24-12-22A ATC Fuse Block, which has 3 buses that worked out nicely for the A and B power systems and an avionics bus. It comes with a cover, however I am using lighted ATO fuses so there is no point in using it to look pretty. I have been happy with the selection at Waytek for just about anything (except wire) to do with power distribution and connectors. https://www.waytekwire.com

John Salak
RV-12 N896HS

2d11hyc.jpg
 
For those considering the fuse block, and don't care about being able to see it (there is questionable to no benefit in seeing the fuses in flight as has been discussed in other threads many times, do your own search), you can mount them with the fuses facing any direction, including down. I was skeptical, but Stein said "ok" and it has been for me.
You can clean up your panel and put them out of sight.
 
I mount them on a swing down panel that is underneath the right side instrument panel. Hinge it at the back sub panel and attach it to the angle of the front panel with a winged-zus fastener. Frees up a lot of panel space. Never had one pop in flight, kind of like your car. I bet half the population couldn't find the fuse panel in their car if asked. :)
 
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