What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

SDS No More Leak Induction Tube Solution

Installed Russ' o-ring intake kit last weekend. Took it out for a test flight, wow, my vibrations are gone. Manifold pressure at idle is around 10 in/hg. Nice smooth running at low idle. Nice improvement to the plane. Thanks Russ.

Another satisfied customer.

Glad to hear. Thanks for the post Alfio.
 
Another happy customer,

Installed them last week on the IO-540, easy to do with the help of a 1/4"dve 7/16" Snap-On Uni socket to get the the inside clamp bolts.

As others have reported, install the New SDS collar with the bolts and leave a small gap to simply slip the Viton O-ring and retainer straight in . Torque up the bolts and you are done.

All of my Lycoming retainers were warped and the gaskets were loose in the middle, this engine is only 525hrs SMOH.

Thanks Ross, a great upgrade !

3p-mIdL_DQ8DPLTrXJTgYKiSzEe_LtXAgW8GP2R7-ZBgwqmAiJLSZwi_auAU3pkfzDfNvrRrWCM9BaZBibSv5Ox3ow5Ay1TjanenE1lJR_2keg1izehsstGvBO7CsjndqGV5NSXJ3w-57N5N-9DhW6YD1HTQHYEGuF2059yS1YY8FqjhvmpN7OhfZgbasyMR2rjbAm1BrZCdM6qgoWHDzImrXGhzXhD7kAWU--Z94qA1CJ7v-zATp4TJymC5bcMIu8c1uSR-SJkgbP7JM98l9uxNeZR2--4Ev463sEEVCojzRofmzHVYLGu0vKcq-QEwE4LVlGaUG9jp0Dry8CK2_hRZ0751N0qVA6tTNMSXhR7AOTtU5IVr7owRsWvSvTgWm5qW04XAGXQM06BOjMyBgsjuNg-nYRzauNzhwvLf1aNFKkvS6A1vBPw1b2sNNwD1MethKn8dafJnpxXPS5p3BT5hmCyMiEda3YECmuLmoqgfITaX-sB1yCas2OsBmwmQTPv5JVXz3tv5poPsI-CyUvB_7DVBCl-BLvJ6JXgOoEeYTEa2kQKuxx_T4vTZWeUQ9Rd7D5EmH5UUsIy1M1NOTxyPGEvsJepwypafIehvrijLijpbJND4hPvab3jBzd_IgowL4T86b8zqhrJFtsXTu2sllX3vokU2ZSJWTgq8cmQ1yRHD8POILvgmtA=w1136-h640-no


Out with old, in with the new !!

82xEfGYKWQmb0_S3MviA4WKRWAAR69qwlsMkDfD_QHTmzeGgEXsPKDz-27GD_7wAKWgzABQvV7hOfxzh3dDE0nnjix2eBKjTyhxDYFz4hSmLTwpbnoWGy4QGWMCh0m2P_vQLiIJfgrXJWXIPzVl3IOk4L_iIiF--10BfieZaxgz1UrTJn579r0OpHyAsyIyxPuIkX870-XammEgAWh4p2rQjDomZlAydrXzUCigB9n5unddpdP-ZIfEI8sWhHcNPiI7kEgHtm2iK_QgzK3zYGTxgcGZhLJeWbOa6oYqYeZYs82W636-4eqvhx9o0rnZccUU8h52VL6r4WvTUXgB--VtZ1WRqmlpXgdH-0S8IVakyJ5qAAxMqhTKfYgTj5FL4yj96rzeOIgM0mE8bbYt-XpWVAWz2c6bKM5-h4GSATyCDbTO0WgLJzUbrB2wOmervxcR_B-MpKOT9ore6U64cL3b5mcY9-0OW0AVaLgNPrd-lEiqu3UNgN6B-jlx1LjS-GpAqticVLL1NxSglSM3pVp8w681jG7gVec0nmZelTboU9dnLdH4OPO-NWISjBbMP8ydKaGqN6RqYyTg88Ypgo1KvDvm4e9TBMt38PGolKdm-JYa0QG1nu4uOhPhHxC9UnP-EUiAHNxv43eJjKCYMNWjc_7yY8PyOvglnHOGW2epHTAqF3sgpWVVywg=w894-h670-no
 
I am glad to here so many people are finding tangible running differences with our setup. Can enjoy flying their RVs more and avoid the frequent gasket changes.

Once I can locate a reliable clamp supplier for the carbed engines, we can get more kits going out the door again. Another batch will be going to anodizing on Monday.

Thanks for the review Ashley.
 
Found another benefit to these things yesterday. I needed safety the lower baffles and one of the induction tubes was in the way. I tried several times to get a good angle on the problem and then the light bulb went off - just remove the tube! In less than a minute the tube was on the floor and I had access.

In the "old days" we knew tube removal meant some time scraping the remains of the old gasket off the head and then hoping you had a new one around. Not so now.
 
Clint at Vetterman

On my first set, I tig welded the ends and it looked ok but the angle wasn't perfect. So, I found a set of tuned induction tubes for my "forward -facing-angle-valve-converted-parallel-valve lycoming, and hired Clint at Vetterman to weld them up for me on his jig. Guess what? The welds are beautiful and the alignment is perfect. So, if your welding skills are a little rusty or if you dont have an alignment jig, Clint is the man.


What about the issue that the re-welded pipe is now shorter by roughly the bandsaw kerf width? Assuming you bandsaw cut it, then reassemble by putting the two pieces together, it is now shorter by, what, 0.050" or so.

Does that affect the sealing of the big doughnut seal where the pipe fits into the sump?

I'm guessing the sealing surface in the sump is long enough, (deep enough) that being a little bit shorter doesn't affect the seal? If it is just sealing in a cylindrical bore, that is probably true. If the seal relies on some compression from bottoming in the bore, then the shortened tube would not produce as much seal compression.
 
Many of you have been on a list to receive induction flange kits for almost 3 months while we were waiting for our suppliers to ship black silicone hose and constant tension clamps.

We got the hose a few days ago for the injected engines and clamps as well and have been filling back orders for injected engines the last few days. Those are available now.

Unfortunately we received the wrong CS clamps from our supplier in Germany for the carbed engines which use a larger OD hose and still can't fill those orders unless people want to re-use their original screw type clamps.

I'm not happy with the situation after waiting nearly 80 days for these clamps. Trying to find a solution with the supplier today but it could be another long wait as they probably don't have stock and will have to be produced.

I've checked 4 other suppliers/ manufacturers and nobody has any inventory.
 
O-ring Part Number

Ross,
Do you have the o-ring specs? I need to get a couple of spares.
Thanks,
Cj
 
O-ring source

I was able to get extra O-rings locally from Grainger. Their item # 1BYL7 - "Round #135 Medium Hard Viton O-Ring, 1.925" I.D., 2.131"O.D., 10PK" for just over $7. These are 75 durometer Viton for carbed engines.
 
Last edited:
Good News

After hours of searching online I finally found some bulk lengths of fuel approved, made in USA, Buna-N reinforced hose with the correct ID and OD so we can use the same clamps on carbed and injected engines now. I have a couple lengths in hand now and can start filling back orders for those on the "list" with carbed engines this weekend until we run out of flanges.

More flanges are being CNC'd this weekend as well and will be off to anodizing on Monday. Colors available will be red, gold and clear.
 
I just picked up another batch of flanges from the anodizer yesterday so can start filling orders again. I'll be going down the list as time permits.

Have red, gold and clear.
 
I've contacted everyone on my back order list for flanges now. If I've missed anyone, please let me know. We have some clear, lots of red and gold ones left.
 
I came back to this thread thinking about asking if anyone would be willing to weld my intake pipes for me. I stumbled on Grubbat's thread from September that Clint at Vetterman will do it. Yippy! That solves that problem. I think I will put these on this winter.

Next question - for Ross or Michael: Should I plan to replace the big rubber doughnuts where the induction tubes go into the horizontal induction sump on the angle valve engine? This is Lycoming p/n 77569. I think I understand from Ross' website listing that $52/cylinder includes these?
Or should I expect that mine are still good? No current symptoms to suggest otherwise.
 
Last edited:
I do not think Ross supplies the tube to sump O ring found on the AV and other similar engines. Yes, as long as you are in there, I'd replace them unless they are very low time. They are subject to plenty of movement in their bore and do wear with time.
 
Satisfied customer!

Just installed the SDS carb intake flange seal kit.

No leaks with paper, but it was time to upgrade from paper.

$15 updated channel locks were good for the tension clamps, but take a few minutes of practice.

No leaks after. All 4 paper gaskets came out intact, I think they were dressed in Hylomar.
 
We have a new batch of flanges at anodizing now. Should have those in hand next week. Still waiting for the CS clamps form Germany which should have been here by now.
 
Superior cold air induction options

Ross, do you ever anticipate having anything that?ll work for us guys with the Superior cold air induction that doesn?t require a bunch of cutting and welding?
 
I looked at a 2 piece design a number of months ago but did not think it could be made rigid enough to be reliable so stopped work on it there.
 
We'll have gold and red here and I only have 4 red ones spoken for on this batch so far.

I can let you know when we have the clamps come in as we are completely sold out of those at this time.
 
I installed these on my IO-540 last annual.
Very easy install, they seal really well. Worst part for me was getting all the old paper gasket off.

Very happy with mine, thanks Ross!

Any more cool upgrades coming along to help me part with my money?
 
I installed these on my IO-540 last annual.
Very easy install, they seal really well. Worst part for me was getting all the old paper gasket off.

Very happy with mine, thanks Ross!

Any more cool upgrades coming along to help me part with my money?

Glad to hear. Well, we have the no leak, no loosen, billet valve covers than shave off some weight too. And billet flywheels. Can all be anodized as well.
 
Last edited:
Ross,

PM sent for set of 4 SDS Aero O-ring Sealed Induction Tube Flanges. Carbureted O-360, Parallel Valve, Gold Anodized, 1.75".

Lhanks,
Larry
 
Clamps Soon!

Ok, my supplier has the clamps in Canada now so I should have them by Monday or Tuesday and can start filling outstanding orders soon after. Thanks to everyone for their patience.
 
I finally have lots of the CT clamps in hand now so am starting to ship more of these kits again. Sorry for the long wait.
 
I am needing to replace my gaskets and hoses (with CT clamps vs the screw type I have on today). I am a little confused as to whether this will work with my setup and prefer not to have to cut and weld.

I have a Superior IO360, parallel valve, cold air induction, fuel injected model. The intake tube has a slight taper/bulge where the hose connects the intake tube to the cold air sump. I don?t know the diameter of the tube where the slight bulge is located.

Does anyone have a similar setup and have tried it or know if these will work without modification?

Thanks!
 
I installed my intake seals today. I tried every method. I liked the tape idea but I noticed that the spring clamps on my combo just barely tightened down to the intake tube. So I slid them up, and used them to hold the flange in place instead of tape.

Slide a spring clamp up to push the flange to the stop. Keep the space between the two tabs on the clamp away from the bolts.

Put on the O-ring and aluminum ring.

Push it up in position, insert bolts and tighten until 1/8" inch away. Take a flashlight to make sure the rings are still seated.

Tighten, slide the clamp down, and torque. Put the spring clamps in position.

Done.

Pics available if desired.
 
So excited..

I have had issues the same as most folks have described in various threads regarding having to swap out the paper intake seals every 200 - 300 hours. I had an induction leak get mean on a night flight and thankfully I had an awesome airport 10 miles ( I was at 9500) away and landed. After I figured out what happened I was just so darn frustrated with this part of the engine going bad again. I carry those paper seals with me in the plane and have had to preplace them on the road. Sigh... I ran across what Ross and Toobuilder came up with. I am hopeful and excited. I ordered the kit today and have faith in their idea. So excited and hopeful that this is the last time I have to mess around with this particular part.

Thanks Ross!!
 
Got a whole herd of gold and red flanges back from the anodizer yesterday if folks want to fix this problem once and for all during annual.
 
I am needing to replace my gaskets and hoses (with CT clamps vs the screw type I have on today). I am a little confused as to whether this will work with my setup and prefer not to have to cut and weld.

I have a Superior IO360, parallel valve, cold air induction, fuel injected model. The intake tube has a slight taper/bulge where the hose connects the intake tube to the cold air sump. I don?t know the diameter of the tube where the slight bulge is located.

Does anyone have a similar setup and have tried it or know if these will work without modification?

Thanks!

These will not work with the Superior cold air induction sump unless you do as others in this thread and have the tubes cut, install the flanges, and weld back together again. That is my plan, when the day comes to replace my sump.
 
Pliers

Found a great tool for the constant tension clamps.
At Home Depot online.....
It is a large tool and can handle the intake tube clamps without stress.
Much easier than the channel locks etc. Also works on the smaller drain back hose clamps as well. The end sockets that grab the ears for the clamps
rotate to help get in there to align the clamp where you want it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GearWre...atives_Non_HDhome-_-205594177-_-205594175-_-N
 
Would Like to Order a Complete Kit for 0320

Hello, I would like to order a complete set for my 0-320. I have 1 3/4 inch diameter induction tubes. Red would be good or whatever color is available. Please PM me with the details on completing the order.
Thanks Pat
 
Superior sump idea

I have the superior sump as shown in the photo.

@Ross - would you guys be able to pre-buy some of the tubes, and then offer a kit which is already welded? Then we could send you back our tubes to be re-welded for the next guy. Like returning an empty coke bottle.

Superior-sump-e1393882955658.jpg


I'm sure that there is a market for that - charge a lot. :D
 
Unfortunately my ace welder friend retired last year so I don't have an economical alternative who can do top quality work.

Ideally, if Superior would be agreeable, they could install our flanges during the manufacturing process if they'd agree to respect my IP.
 
We just received another run of flanges from the machine shop and anodizer on Friday so have a decent stock of clear, gold and red flanges in stock again for those interested. As always, thanks for your patience.

Our machining partner who makes these is working 7 days a week to try to keep up with demand for his services from SDS and other clients. He'll be adding a new Haas VF-4 in the coming months and expanding his shop space to the adjacent bay to accommodate it. This should reduce lead times on many of our parts- but I've said that before... :eek:
 
Aloha

I'm a bit confused with the welding discussion. I have been led to believe that it is really hard to weld anodized aluminum without having to remove the anodizing layer and thus making a mess.

Are these flanges welded on?
 
We just received another run of flanges from the machine shop and anodizer on Friday so have a decent stock of clear, gold and red flanges in stock again for those interested. As always, thanks for your patience.

Our machining partner who makes these is working 7 days a week to try to keep up with demand for his services from SDS and other clients. He'll be adding a new Haas VF-4 in the coming months and expanding his shop space to the adjacent bay to accommodate it. This should reduce lead times on many of our parts- but I've said that before... :eek:

A high quality product that does the job. I put a set on my not flying yet IO-320 RV-9A. My build buddy put a set on his IO-360 Cozy MKIV. He states there was a noticeable improvement in how his engine ran afterwards. Thanks for making this kit available, and at a very reasonable price IMHO.
 
The welding only comes into play if the flange blocks cant slide on/off the tube as typically seen on the angle valve engines and some aftermarket examples. In these cases, the tube needs to be cut to remove the old flange blocks and install the SDS parts, then the tube is welded back together.
 
I installed mine today on a Lycoming O-360 A2A.

Very impressed with the idea, and part quality.

It was a very straightforward and easy installation.

I used Knipex Cobra 250mm Spring Hose Clamp Pliers 85 51 250 A. These are superb.

Can’t wait to run the engine.

Cheers

Wayne Blackler
IO-360 Long EZ VH-WEZ
AUSTRALIA
 
Last edited:
Back
Top