What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

When the beads fail you, let a laser do the work!

bkervaski

bkervaski

Hellloooooooo!
Testing
I wanted to share this so it could save other builders some frustration and time with the new gel coated fiberglass parts from Vans.

With the new gel coated parts, Vans supplies a magnetic bead system for locating holes .. however, I found that they weren't all that accurate in some cases such as curved surfaces (wheel pants) .. the magnets can move up to 1/4 of an inch making perfect alignment almost impossible.

A local RV-10 builder (thanks Pete :D) recommended a construction alignment laser from the local Home Depot Aviation Supply Company ... just line it up on the hole, make sure the airplane and laser do not move, mount the fairing and drill your hole. Rinse, repeat, etc.

Here is the one I use but there are lots of choices - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009O94W3E

I had to make a new nose wheel pant and this method let me do it in a fraction of the time and with near perfect results.
 
Last edited:
Locating the holes for the gear leg fairing accurately with the magnets are next to impossible as many other holes in a gel coated fiberglass. Using laser lights made it accurate and fast.
If you can get one that attaches to a tripod, it makes the work a lot easier. I bought one from Costco that comes with a tripod and other attachments that will hold it steady. The accuracy is only as good as keeping the light in a steady position.
 
Yeah, and you definitely want to avoid the laser level from Harbor Freight. That one will make the plane fly sideways.

;-)

And Bill, if you get a tripod style laser level, you can use it to *align* the pants; not just locate the holes.
 
Last edited:
And Bill, if you get a tripod style laser level, you can use it to *align* the pants; not just locate the holes.
Click to expand...

Yep, did that too. Just center lined the front wheel and lined the laser up with some reference rivets. It shouldn't be more than about 1/16 off any direction, considerably better fit than my first wheel pant.

The problem with getting the wheel pant close to perfect is now my front leg fairing has too large of a gap on the bottom, about 3/4 inch (my first wheel pant was too high but that's another story). One day I'll make a new one of those too, the gap is bothering me :eek:
 
Yes, a really useful tool to have. I have used a laser extensively throughout my entire build, from initial wing and fuselage jig set ups to blind drilling of skins, gear leg alignment and drilling, fairings and presently cowl fitting etc. Mounted on a good camera tripod it is height and swivel adjustable and easily moved.
 
Last edited:
I guess I am missing something here. Yes the laser will give you perfect alignment, but if the edge of the part has not been perfectly sanded straight, your “eye” will see a misalignment because the screws will not be the same distance from the edge. If the part is already perfectly straight then why not just draw a parallel line from the edge?
The beads, if that is the correct term, are just a suggestion, and it was nice to have that suggested location compared to previous models. Save the laser for wallpaper
 
Last edited:
Tom Martin said:
I guess I am missing something here. Yes the laser will give you perfect alignment, but if the edge of the part has not been perfectly sanded straight, your “eye” will see a misalignment because the screws will not be the same distance from the edge. If the part is already perfectly straight then why not just draw a parallel line from the edge?
The beads, if that is the correct term, are just a suggestion, and it was nice to have that suggested location compared to previous models. Save the laser for wallpaper
Click to expand...

The laser stays aligned to the nutplate holes when the fairing is put in place to match drill. The newer fairings have opaque gel coat so this or magnets is the only way. Like Bill I found magnets to be less consistent than laser. I don’t have any problem adjusting angle of drill and any slight offset needed for part thickness etc. in the case of the spinner just aligned once and rotate to the next hole.
 
Last edited:
All good suggestions. With eleven aircraft behind me I guess I tend to do what has worked very well in the past. Basically a good ruler, a sharpie, and standing back at a distance to check for true. It does not matter how straight that picture hanging on the wall is; If it is beside a crooked window it will look like the laser level was wrong.
I found the 14 to be ridiculously easy compared to all the other RVs and rockets, everything lined up very well, with the exception of some of the glass tips on the tail. Those had to be cut and put back together as I have done on other planes. At the time I wondered if the vertical stab and rudder tips were from another plane?
 
While I didn?t use a laser for my ?in the day? build, I do now for aligning almost anything. I also back it up with a bubble level and string. Measure twice cut once as the saying goes.
 
Just so the intent of this thread isn’t lost guys, he’s not talking about aligning anything with the laser - he’s talking about locating holes when you can’t see through the fiberglass. The technique is simple and works really well! And that comes from an old dog....
 
Ironflight said:
Just so the intent of this thread isn?t lost guys, he?s not talking about aligning anything with the laser - he?s talking about locating holes when you can?t see through the fiberglass. The technique is simple and works really well! And that comes from an old dog....
Click to expand...

But... the laser does work well for aligning things like the wheel pants. I used one to paint a line on the center rib of the tire, and then added the pant. the centerline painted over the tire allowed aligning the pant in both the L/R direction, and in rotation (with set it up so the laser can paint the trailing edge). I did the pants & leg fairings without the wings in place; easier to sit the fuselage up on supports so the gear's hanging free.

Charlie
 
I did what Tom did and stood way out front for alignment. Must have worked pretty good. I do wish I had thought of hole placement using the laser. I just measured then measured then I'd measure it. EVENTUALLY got things to come out right.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top