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Pop Rivets

D

dspender

Well Known Member
I purchased the complete RV tool kit from Avery so I could practice some riveting skills before my kit arrives. In the kit they send a Stanley MR77 pop riveter. The spent shaft from the first rivet came our the top relatively easily. The spent shaft from the second rivet could only be removed after I disassembled the shaft of the rivet gun. Same with the third rivet. On all the videos I have watched, no one has struggled as I have. I purchased the rivets from Menards to practice with. The package for this rivet gun from Avery says nothing about aviation. I have minimal experience with a pop rivet gun, however the cheap rivet gun I purchased decades ago works well for the project I am practicing on.
I assume I am doing something wrong, because I cannot believe spending over 2 grand for this tool kit, in which is this Stanley pop riveter, would yield me an inferior tool. What do you suggest?
Paid my 2013 dues. Dennis
 
I had the same problem with my Stanley puller. I solved it by buying a POP brand puller. This puller has the added advantage of being able to get into tight spaces without grinding down the nose. This was most notable when attaching z-brackets to fuel tanks, and most recently when attaching the thick reinforcement plate to the inboard end of the flap spar and inboard rib. The only reason I haven't thrown my Stanley puller away is that it's hard for me throw anything away...:rolleyes:
 
On my NAPA puller I tip the gun over and squeeze and release the handle and it falls out. Might have to clunk it against something once and a while.
 
I think I could drop a three pound sledge hammer on it, while tipped upside down, and the rivet shank would not come out. I have to dismantle the gun each time.
 
Any bend in the spent shaft?

Any bend while pulling it would cause a hang up. When you disassemble, is the spent nail straight? Check the two cone halves for a spur on either inside. Give them a little scotch bright rub, squirt a little lube on it and then try to loosen the screw in the back a turn. Mine usually hang up if its a cherry rivet and I use a nail guide that's too close to exact size. Change out the round guide to the next larger one. One or more of those may do it.
 
Harbor Freight

I bought a pneumatic one from Harbor Freight. Works great and now I only use the hand-squeeze one in very tight spots. Heck, they were so cheap, I bought a couple of them for my fellow builder friends as gifts. They love them too, and hardly use their hand-actuated pop riveters anymore. My $0.02.
 
The screw on top of the head tightens or loosens the jaws, should be able to adjust so that it releases t he spent shaft. I have a Stanley and used it for my complete build, it works fine and I like the swivel head too.

Bird
 
I have that happen a lot. If I use the die in the pop rivet that is too close to the size of the rivet stem it gets stuck. So I tend to use the next size up and that prevents them from getting stuck.
 
Talk

To someone at Avery - they won't be happy until you are happy - good people. Give them a call and see what they say.
 
Stanley Swivel-head Pop Riveter (yellow)

I've had no problems with the rivet shanks coming out. Did have some problems with insufficient rivet grip early on, but found the adjusting nut had come loose and the adjuster had backed all the way out, thus providing no grip. Once I adjusted it back it was fine.
 
Your suggestions helped me with my pop riveter. I placed the next size up tip, placed a tiny amount of 3 in 1 oil down the head, and loosened the screw holding the spring. All is well now.
 
Just starting an RV12 project. The hand rivet puller listed in Vans plans is $225. A HF tool is $4.99. Is it really necessary to spend an extra $200 to install airworthy LP3-4 rivets?

George
 
BlndRvtr said:
Just starting an RV12 project. The hand rivet puller listed in Vans plans is $225. A HF tool is $4.99. Is it really necessary to spend an extra $200 to install airworthy LP3-4 rivets?

George
Click to expand...

I would say no. I am sure the cool squeezers are great but I have used the HF one with no problems. Drop another $20 and get the air rivet puller. You will only use the hand squeezer when the air one will not fit.
 
BlndRvtr said:
Just starting an RV12 project. The hand rivet puller listed in Vans plans is $225. A HF tool is $4.99. Is it really necessary to spend an extra $200 to install airworthy LP3-4 rivets?

George
Click to expand...

I use this Marson rivet puller. It is 25 yrs old and never had an issue, if you want a manual puller. Not as many rivets pulled as an RV12, so you may want the pneumatic HF - my neighbor said he was impressed with it's reliability, and he usually spares no expense on tools. The Marson does get into tight (er) spaces.
 
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While some folks have had good luck with the HF pneumatic rivet puller, I tried 2 different ones and neither worked right. Got my money back from HF without questions (they are good that way) and spent about twice as much on a Dayton pneumatic puller that is a much better tool, and will get into tighter spaces than the HF tool as well.

If I were building an RV-12, I think I would spend the extra money for a top end pneumatic puller since the 12 uses almost all pulled rivets. I was able to use a Pop brand high end puller during my class at Synergy Air that was really great. It used air pressure to hold the rivet in the nose piece and then ejected the stem into a rear flexible container after pulling. It had a very compact nose and was light weight. It was a very nice tool, but I couldn't justify it for the RV-10.

One other caution regarding the use of a nose piece with a larger hole - If the hole is too large it can cause the head of the rivet to be damaged by pulling it into the nose piece.
 
Thanks for all the replies. A powered puller is on the list.

This is for a teen build project, so multiple, affordable hand pullers would be nice as well, since we envision multiple, simultaneous work stations.

George
 
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