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  #21  
Old 03-28-2010, 06:18 PM
Airhead Airhead is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oviedo, Florida
Posts: 72
Default

OK, she's in. Thanks Tom, I just needed the courage to "flex" my muscles. I played around with the tube out of the plane for a few minutes flexing it like you string a bow. Decided it just might take that much flex without deforming. Wrapped the center where it goes through the 706 hole with several layers of duct tape, taped the treads on both ends (they get raked over the bulkheads), and flexed. It was so tightly flexed I could barely get it to move forward, but with a little twisting it moved forward an inch or so and popped down into place. Whew, that took all day. However maybe it wasn't all in vain because there was no recent post I could find addressing this problem. Now there is. Thanks all.
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RV-7A QB slider - IO 360 M1B Hartzell C/S prop w/Dual 10" Dynon Skyviews - Classic Aero interior. 50 hrs TT .
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  #22  
Old 03-29-2010, 06:26 AM
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swisseagle swisseagle is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: 20km outside of Zurich, Switzerland
Posts: 413
Default No force, no flex NEEDET!

Hello Bob

Maybe I'm allready to late?!

I was over lunch time at my building place and checked the situation.

You do not need any flex or force to put in the controll tube. I made a serie of pictures (step by step) with my mobilephone, how to insert the tube with just two fingers and no force.

Now I have to work, I will post the pictures when I'm at home this evening.

I hope it will help others also.

Reagrds,

Dominik
RV-7A
Switzerland
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  #23  
Old 03-29-2010, 02:21 PM
Airhead Airhead is offline
 
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Location: Oviedo, Florida
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Dominick,

I would like to see your method because I may need to remove the tube at some point (it seems everything else has to be fit and removed several times beore your done), and others hitting this point in construction could benifit. There must be majic in those two fingers.

Bob
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RV-7A QB slider - IO 360 M1B Hartzell C/S prop w/Dual 10" Dynon Skyviews - Classic Aero interior. 50 hrs TT .
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  #24  
Old 03-29-2010, 04:58 PM
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swisseagle swisseagle is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: 20km outside of Zurich, Switzerland
Posts: 413
Default Step by Step

Hello Bob
here are my pictures. Sorry about the quality, I made them with the mobil phone.

I made my tube by 1/8" longer, I like to see a few threads more engaged, so I was really alarmed when I have seen your first post!

* I slided the tube in from the back to the front
* on the right side, along the bellcrank channel F-728
* throu the rear spar bulkhead F-705 bulkhead, untill it hit the main spar web,
* then back throu the bulkhead F-706B until it sits on the correct position.

I hope all is fine with my controll tube, because I can really put it in with 2 fingers!? So please check my methode and report, so that I can go relaxed to bed and not have to fight against bad dreams (:-)









Regards,

Dominik
RV-7A
Switzerland

Last edited by swisseagle : 03-29-2010 at 05:06 PM.
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  #25  
Old 03-29-2010, 05:43 PM
Airhead Airhead is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oviedo, Florida
Posts: 72
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Dominick,

You have provided a great end to this post. Your pictures say it all. I just didn't think outside the box...literally, it just didn't occur to me to go outside the center support at the bellcrank bulkhead. There is a couple more inches between the 706 bulkhead and the main spar than between the 707 bulkhead and the 705 bulkhead. Even though I have already "flexed" mine in, I think I'll take it out, paint the scratches and PUT IT IN RIGHT. Sleep well.

Bob
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RV-7A QB slider - IO 360 M1B Hartzell C/S prop w/Dual 10" Dynon Skyviews - Classic Aero interior. 50 hrs TT .
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  #26  
Old 04-01-2010, 09:00 PM
Mike Coady Mike Coady is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Taylorville, IL.
Posts: 107
Default small elevator push rod

Remove a little material in the tunnel at the top and take the rod bearings off. It will fit from back to front with a little angular persuasion.
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  #27  
Old 05-06-2018, 07:03 PM
pilot28906 pilot28906 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Murphy, NC
Posts: 437
Default Thanks

Thanks for the photos Swiss Eagle. I know this is an old thread but the photos helped a bunch. I had no idea how to get the push rod in and was thinking about trimming the bulkhead when all I had to do was step back and think a little. This site is great!!!
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Murphy, NC
RV7
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  #28  
Old 05-07-2018, 11:26 AM
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swisseagle swisseagle is offline
 
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Location: 20km outside of Zurich, Switzerland
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Hello John
Great that my pictures still helped!!!

After you installed the tube, check clearence at the rear-spar bulkhead. At nearly all RV-7, the tube is touching the rear spar. It is ok to grind the spar there in height by max. 1.6mm. PM me if you need a picture.

Build on ... you don't know what you are missing ... bring it to fly and enjoy this dream machine!

BR, Dominik
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RV-7A, TMX-IO-320, FM-150, Sensenich FP
Flying since 28. April 2016
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  #29  
Old 05-07-2018, 07:17 PM
pilot28906 pilot28906 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Murphy, NC
Posts: 437
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Dominik, Yes if you have a photo of the spar trim, I would love to see it.

Thanks again.
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Murphy, NC
RV7
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  #30  
Old 05-10-2018, 05:12 PM
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swisseagle swisseagle is offline
 
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Location: 20km outside of Zurich, Switzerland
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Hi John
still looking for the pic ... I knew I have one ... sent is also to a buddy ... but no luck in finding it. Sorry!
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RV-7A, TMX-IO-320, FM-150, Sensenich FP
Flying since 28. April 2016
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