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  #1  
Old 09-03-2018, 12:41 AM
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rdamazio rdamazio is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Santa Clara, CA
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Default Rear spar attach bar shop head side

Hi all.

In section 25, page 25-7, there's a note to put all the shop heads for the rear spar attach bar (F-1005B) on the aft side. I of course didn't see the note until I had several rivets already done, so I'm wondering if there's any big reason they should be that way (something from a later part of the build?), or if it's OK to keep them. I know this is a pretty structural part, so I'd rather not be drilling out rivets if I can avoid it.

Also interesting that this only references the -8 rivets, not all the others (are they counting on people's OCD to keep them all on that side? or is there something special about the bar?).

Thanks
Rodrigo
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  #2  
Old 09-03-2018, 07:56 AM
Electrogunner Electrogunner is offline
 
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Default Shop heads

I would have to look at the manual to be sure, but I think it facilitates getting the rear floors in. They are very tight, I damaged one when I did mine and had to order a new one from vans.
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  #3  
Old 09-03-2018, 08:12 AM
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rvanstory rvanstory is offline
 
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I had a similar situation when installing the WD-1004 on page 27-4. When I contacted Van's support, they said the reason for the call out in that section was due to thicker metal (WD-1004) being attached to thinner metal (tunnel wall). When you have 2 different thicknesses, they recommend placing manufactured head on side of thinner metal to prevent "puckering". I didn't have that problem, so they said to build on.

The parts you asked about are both pretty thick metals. I looked at mine and do not see any reason why you can't leave as is. I don't see any interference with shop end being on wrong side.

As a "heads up", on upcoming page 26-6 when you're riveting in the WD-1008 step support, you will need to place manufactured head against the rib, not the WD-1008. I did experience puckering on that part and had to replace.
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:17 AM
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rvanstory rvanstory is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrogunner View Post
I would have to look at the manual to be sure, but I think it facilitates getting the rear floors in. They are very tight, I damaged one when I did mine and had to order a new one from vans.
Upon second look, I think Electrogunner is right! (I didn't see his post until after I sent my response) This was a VERY tight fit and there is only one way to put the floor pans in. It does require "squeezing" past these rivets and it was very tight.

Good catch Electrogunner!
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  #5  
Old 09-03-2018, 05:06 PM
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rdamazio rdamazio is offline
 
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Thanks, makes sense about the floors. On to replacing those rivets, then
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  #6  
Old 09-04-2018, 07:50 AM
Electrogunner Electrogunner is offline
 
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Default Rear floors

The worst thing about the rear floors are once you get them in there and drilled, you have to pull them back out and do it again
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  #7  
Old 09-04-2018, 07:58 AM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrogunner View Post
The worst thing about the rear floors are once you get them in there and drilled, you have to pull them back out and do it again
Like just about every other part of the airplane. The standard is that you will "build" the airplane at least twice and as often as 3 times by the time you are through.
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Old 09-04-2018, 05:05 PM
mciaglia mciaglia is offline
 
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I just checked mine. Shop head forward.
Installed rear seat floors without a problem. Other than once I put them I left them. Like many other builders I drilled, dimpled them installed them without having to remove them.
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