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  #11  
Old 08-23-2018, 08:25 AM
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mike newall mike newall is offline
 
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In the course of building two 12's I guess we had to clearance drill 5-10% of holes after structure was clecoed and ready to rivet.

Part of it was the variability of the rivets. You could swap the rivet and another may fit, but sometimes it was just holes needing cleaning out, or possibly the tension in an assembly just making sufficient interference to prevent a clean rivet insertion.

No big deal, we just found it easier to run a sharp drill through a whole panel if one or two were tricky - much quicker in assembly time.
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  #12  
Old 08-23-2018, 12:26 PM
Eric B Eric B is offline
 
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Originally Posted by mike newall View Post
In the course of building two 12's I guess we had to clearance drill 5-10% of holes after structure was clecoed and ready to rivet.

Part of it was the variability of the rivets. You could swap the rivet and another may fit, but sometimes it was just holes needing cleaning out, or possibly the tension in an assembly just making sufficient interference to prevent a clean rivet insertion.

No big deal, we just found it easier to run a sharp drill through a whole panel if one or two were tricky - much quicker in assembly time.
Did you disassemble and debur after running the drill through? Just curious, especially given 2 -12's.
Thanks!
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  #13  
Old 08-23-2018, 02:15 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Edit: I'm guessing you would debur every pre-punched hole even if you don't final drill, just because of the process used to make the hole.
You can if you want, but it is not specified or required by Van's (and why it is not mentioned in the KAI).

The burden is still on the builder to make a determination whether deburring any given hole is required, but in the majority of instances on the RV-12, the only time deburring is required, is in instances where match drilling or final drilling has occurred (meaning it is a hole made by, or made larger by drilling).

There is a hidden danger with deburring, where in some cases a builder is making things worse by deburring, than if they didn't at all.
Deburring is an acquired skill. It is not uncommon for novice builders to go way overboard and be slightly chamfering/countersinking each hole. This is a more serious problem on the RV-12 because the skins are only .020 thick to start with.
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Last edited by rvbuilder2002 : 08-23-2018 at 02:18 PM.
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  #14  
Old 08-24-2018, 12:06 PM
Eric B Eric B is offline
 
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Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
You can if you want, but it is not specified or required by Van's (and why it is not mentioned in the KAI).

The burden is still on the builder to make a determination whether deburring any given hole is required, but in the majority of instances on the RV-12, the only time deburring is required, is in instances where match drilling or final drilling has occurred (meaning it is a hole made by, or made larger by drilling).

There is a hidden danger with deburring, where in some cases a builder is making things worse by deburring, than if they didn't at all.
Deburring is an acquired skill. It is not uncommon for novice builders to go way overboard and be slightly chamfering/countersinking each hole. This is a more serious problem on the RV-12 because the skins are only .020 thick to start with.
I didn't realize the skins were so thin. It makes much more sense now. On my -10, I was worried at times I was removing too much material, but I had an A&P I trust take a look. He said I was doing a decent job. That always helps confidence.
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  #15  
Old 08-24-2018, 05:11 PM
Eric B Eric B is offline
 
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I got a response from Van's. The RV-12 and -14 are "matched hole" kits whereas the others are "prepunched". This explains why the holes are final size for the most part and makes construction much quicker. Thanks for the replay.
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