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  #11  
Old 05-01-2018, 10:09 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bavafa View Post
Thanks all for chiming in. I have noticed on the nose wheel pants that more clearance is needed for the L&R turns then straight and would imagine the same would apply for the gear fairing. Just trying to get the cleanest look without interference.

Second question that I have been wondering... since I don't have the cowl installed yet (way to go to get to that portion yet), has anyone created/installed an upper intersection fairing for the nose gear or the aluminum part gives it a very clean look?
None was developed for the kit since the gear leg moves within the opening in the bottom of the cowl.
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  #12  
Old 05-01-2018, 11:53 AM
Jake14 Jake14 is offline
 
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Another thing to check is the vertical height and pitch angle of the nose wheel fairing, which makes a lot of difference in how it lines up with the gear leg fairing.
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  #13  
Old 05-01-2018, 04:26 PM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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Quote:
I agree, the close out should be installed for flight.
Got it! Thanks guys.
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  #14  
Old 05-01-2018, 07:15 PM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Jake14 View Post
Another thing to check is the vertical height and pitch angle of the nose wheel fairing, which makes a lot of difference in how it lines up with the gear leg fairing.
Correct, trust but verify.

The heavy lifting has been done and looks great. I must have put the fairing on&off more than 100 times (a bit of exaggeration) to get the good fit but it was worth the effort.
Now I am wondering if I should glass over the rivets (for the piano hinge) to keep them from coming loose and not showing thru paint over time. I guess compared to the 7A, there is hardly any relative movement in relation to the gear leg so should hold up better.
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  #15  
Old 08-24-2018, 03:48 PM
JDA_BTR JDA_BTR is offline
 
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Location: Baton Rouge, LA
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on my nose leg fairing I can’t figure out how to locate the lower holes properly. All I got on the fairing was a little straight line there. Gelcoat keeps me from seeing thru. The upper fastener marking is easy to see.

Do I sand off the gelcoat to see? Any better ideas? I don’t have a laser pointer maybe it’s time.
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Last edited by rv7boy : 08-24-2018 at 11:12 PM. Reason: Deleted four letter word...
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  #16  
Old 08-24-2018, 10:25 PM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
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Originally Posted by JDA_BTR View Post
on my nose leg fairing I can’t figure out how to locate the lower holes properly. All I got on the fairing was a little straight line there. Gelcoat keeps me from seeing thru. The upper fastener marking is easy to see.

Do I sand off the gelcoat to see? Any better ideas? I don’t have a laser pointer maybe it’s time.
Here is what I did and end up pretty darn accurate.

Point a laser light, one that you can be pointed and hold steady to the screw hole without the fairing on, then without distorting the laser light install the fairing and the light will shine where it needs to be drilled.
My level has a laser light which I used.

Good luck.
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Last edited by rv7boy : 08-24-2018 at 11:13 PM. Reason: Deleted four letter word
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  #17  
Old 08-25-2018, 01:25 PM
HHKing HHKing is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Aiken, SC
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Default Nose Wheel Leg Fairing

The plans say to check the pre-drawn lines on the lower portion line up with the center nutplate hole. Mine line up with the upper nutplate hole. Everything else seems to be lined up. Mine is clear so I can see through it pretty well. Did anybody else have this or do I need to keep sanding?
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  #18  
Old 08-25-2018, 06:54 PM
JDA_BTR JDA_BTR is offline
 
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I donít know if that matters. I sanded away gelcoat to see through. This is one part where gelcoat really doesnít help.
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