VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics


Go Back   VAF Forums > Main > RV General Discussion/News
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #21  
Old 09-04-2018, 05:59 PM
scsmith scsmith is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ashland, OR
Posts: 1,857
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobTurner View Post
+1 good idea.
+2 on Bavafa's suggestion to try prying forward on the tank, gently. Yes, this is worth a try. My hunch would be that the stripped threads will not want to allow a clean thread to get started again, but it might. If it does, twice, you are home free.

If not, drilling the heads off the bolts is the best approach I can see. You can either remove a portion of the lower skin, or you could cut an additional inspection port in the skin directly where the bolt is. It is going to have to extend aft far enough for you to get an angle drill in there with a short drill.

When you are done, you will have to make a cover for the hole. You can copy the way the standard inspection ports are made so the cover is flush, or you could just lap a cover over the outside of the skin. No one is going to look under there, so it really only matters to you.

Wow, it is really hard to strip a plate nut! Or a AN bolt. I would be about as happy with that employee as I would be of the guy that drilled a hole in the skin of the Soyuz!
__________________
Steve Smith
Aeronautical Engineer
RV-8 N825RV
IO-360 A1A
WW 200RV
"The Magic Carpet"
Hobbs 515 in 9 years (would have flown more this year if not for fire smoke)
also LS-6-15/18 sailplane
VAF donation Dec 2017
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 09-07-2018, 05:23 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
Posts: 693
Default

Any updates on this one?
__________________
Turner Billingsley
RV-14A In Progress
N14VB Reserved
https://turnerb14a.blogspot.com/
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 09-08-2018, 09:51 AM
Navy76 Navy76 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 12
Default

Iíve only got room to work on one wing at a time. Iíve been working on the left wing and havenít gotten back to trying to remove the right tank. I did call Vanís however and they recommended trying to put wooden wedges in between the inboard-most z-bracket and the spar to put some pressure on the bolt that is in the next outboard z-bracket. If that doesnít work they recommended drilling out the bolts. While that might work for one of them the other is impossible to see and very difficult to even reach.

If it comes to drilling, I think Iíll return it to Vans and let them deal with it. It seems as though there is a high risk of damaging the spar and I donít w,ant to take that risk for a problem caused by the factory.

Iíll updated this thread when I have more news.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 09-13-2018, 11:18 PM
Navy76 Navy76 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 12
Default

I finally got the tank off. I ended up buying a tight fit 90 degree drill extension from ACS and then used a drill guide that I turned on my lathe to help me drill a #30 hole in the exact center of the cap screw head.
https://cvws.icloud-content.com/S/Ac...TQ-vnNYB1luBg0

Once that was done, I held the head with an ignition wrench to keep it from spinning and drilled it out to 3/16Ē.
https://cvws.icloud-content.com/S/AZ...f_tLtUgts3t28w

When the hole was deep enough, I held a flat bladed screw driver in the joint between the washer and the hex head and gave it a quick rap with a 6oz ball peen hammer and it snapped right off.
https://cvws.icloud-content.com/S/AS...mSlQFff8DIje20

Once I had the heads off of the cap screws, the tank was easily removed. One of the bolts came right out of the z-bracket when I grabbed it with a pair of vice grips and pulled back hard as I turned it to get it to re-engage the nutplate threads.
https://cvws.icloud-content.com/S/AQ...xfeq6mwoICMs6Q

Unfortunately, the other one wouldnít re-engage no matter how hard I pulled so Iíll have to replace the nut plate.
https://cvws.icloud-content.com/S/AX...vQBhp1pjTAEPI0

It ended up not being nearly as hard as I thought it would be but I never wouldíve been able to do it without the right angle drill and my homemade centering drill block.

Thanks to everyone who offer help and advice. I truly appreciate it. Sorry if the photos didnít turn out, itís the first time Iíve tried inserting photos here.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 09-13-2018, 11:24 PM
RV7A Flyer's Avatar
RV7A Flyer RV7A Flyer is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: US
Posts: 1,594
Default

So to follow up...how'd they end up all boogered up in the first place? Were they too long or something like that (thus screwing in past the threads)? Something else?

Just curious to know how that happened to begin with, as I'm sure many are (to avoid a similar problem).

TIA!

BTW, that's really good craftsmanship to get that done so cleanly...well done!
__________________
2017 Dues paid!
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 09-13-2018, 11:52 PM
Navy76 Navy76 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 12
Default

As far as I can tell, they were simply over tightened and stripped. They appear to be the right length and size. I suppose they might have come from a bad bunch of stock but outwardly the look fine.

I intend to take a real close look at the nutplate to make sure theyíre not damaged. I am also going to replace all of the tank fasteners just in case there was a quality issue with the fasteners.

Lyn
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 09-14-2018, 07:13 AM
woxofswa woxofswa is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Mesa Arizona
Posts: 497
Default

Might be related.
During my build, I came across a nutplate that just didnít feel right as I was trying to insert a fastener. Upon closer inspection, I discovered that the nutplate had never been threaded. The sidewalls of where the threads would be were solid material as if that step in the manufacturing process had been skipped. Over the remaining course of the build, I would carefully inspect each nutplate for proper threads prior to installing it and sure enough, I came across a couple more of varying sizes. I imagine that forcing a fastener into a nutplate that had never been properly threaded could mugger it up pretty good.
__________________
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
N24EV
RV-10 BPE, Dynon, Airflow systems A/C
First flight May 10, 2014
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 09-14-2018, 05:09 PM
RV7A Flyer's Avatar
RV7A Flyer RV7A Flyer is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: US
Posts: 1,594
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Navy76 View Post
As far as I can tell, they were simply over tightened and stripped. They appear to be the right length and size. I suppose they might have come from a bad bunch of stock but outwardly the look fine.

I intend to take a real close look at the nutplate to make sure theyíre not damaged. I am also going to replace all of the tank fasteners just in case there was a quality issue with the fasteners.

Lyn
That's gotta be hard to do, at least if you're tightening by hand. Those are AN-3s, right? So the torque should be IIRC 20-25 INCH-pounds.

Unless they were tightened with a power tool that was set wrong...?
__________________
2017 Dues paid!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:43 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.