Flaperon skins

I've massaged the flaperon skins (trailing edge) to fit the ribs as close as I could. When I cleco'd them to the spar/rib assembly the skins are pretty flat on the top surface but have a slight concave bottom surface in places. I can get a .022" shim under a straight edge. As I understand Van's instructions, I would hold a block to the trailing edge and tap it with a hammer. Several questions:
1. Is 0.022" enough to mess with? Or wait and see how she flies?
2. Do you try to adjust it while cleco'd or do you wait until riveted? I have seen changes in fit between cleco'd and reveted.
3. Since one surface is pretty good, does the tapping technique work? I assume you'd tap biased to the curved surface.
4. Any suggestions as to how to secure the assembly while tapping?

Thanks,
Harlan H. Henke
RV-12iS Tail kit and wings complete.
2020 Dues paid.

Harlan,
.022 gap is small in the context of what Section 5 is talking about.

I suggest you leave it for now and see how the roll trim is once you start flying.

I riveted conventional trim tabs to my flaperons after I flew off phase I. Makes changes easy without risking chipping my paint job.

RFSchaller said:

I riveted conventional trim tabs to my flaperons after I flew off phase I. Makes changes easy without risking chipping my paint job.

Click to expand...

To each his own (it is experimental after all) but to me it makes no sense to correct a trim / flight control problem by adding a trim tab without first attempting to resolve the problem by correcting potential construction errors.

To me it would be similar to making a not effective enough rudder bigger, when the only problem was that the travel stops were not done correctly.....

BTW, I have made significant roll trim adjustments to numerous RV-12's with zero indication on the paint that anything was done.

Thanks!
HHH

I understand, Scott. The reason I like trim tabs is they are easily adjustable after each flight and don?t involve any action that my mar the paint job. As you say to each their own.