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  #41  
Old 02-01-2011, 09:05 AM
NVhunter NVhunter is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Carson City, NV
Posts: 24
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Hey HawkinSF have you taken a look ant the new DJM Manufacturing web site? We offer all different types of quadrants for the RV series. If you are looking for a curve top they will be under the RV-4 or if you are looking for a Flat top they are under the RV-8. And just to let everyone know we just upgraded the quadrants, all of them are now laser etch plus we are developing new AR type handles.

Here is the web site. djmmfg.com

Last edited by NVhunter : 02-01-2011 at 09:28 AM.
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  #42  
Old 02-01-2011, 10:09 AM
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fatboy fatboy is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 21
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These are great ideas -- if the goal is to make the conduit "disappear", any one or a combination of the methods here should work. The gap in the fatboss1 (Mark's quadrant plus a FatBoy grip) at the cap, or top of the quadrant is exactly 3/16th. The lever is 1/8th. So you really have 1/32nd to play with in order to keep the conduit sides from hitting the delrin spacers at the cap slots for the lever. I'll attach a pic here. Using the leading edge of the throttle lever and wrapping the entire lever and conduit you could get it all to disappear. I'll try it this week and post. Also, there is nothing mechanical at this point, you are simply merging two components into one.

But again, confirm you don't have any chafing. With just a push button, you are probably good to go with wrapping only (2) 24 awg wires. However, using a 4way hat and a push button and/or using my coil cord, you are 1/64th past the 3/16th gap. This takes into account the neoprene conduit wrap apart of the coil cord. (7) separate 24 awg wires that are wrapped with heat shrink or something similar discussed here as a part of the lever might work though.

As the lever passes thru the cap slot you'll see that the lever is just touching the delrin spacer. This provides a super steady and smooth ride, but with a wrap job, might cause the new conduit to rub? Something to play around with as there is approximately 1/16th to play with on the inboard side -- see picture link here --

http://www.fatboythrottles.com/throt...t_pictures.php



Please keep the ideas coming -- what about wireless? Maybe a little over the top?
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  #43  
Old 02-01-2011, 10:26 AM
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F1Boss F1Boss is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Taylor Texas
Posts: 660
Default Can do!

Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiskeyMike View Post
It appears that without redesigning the quadrant structure there is no way to run the switch wiring except externally. From an esthetic perspective it would sure be more appealing if the support arm of the throttle was designed with more mass (diameter) so that wiring could run inside of it in the same manner as a control stick. Perhaps due to fine products like yours switching controls will become more commonplace on throttle quadrants, and more esthetically pleasing designs will be developed.
Hey Bill:

If you want one that hides the wire, I can build it, and Andy will put one of his most cool handles on it. You are asking for a very specialized unit, likely to cost 2x what the original cost. Send me a check and I'll get on it!

Carry on!
Mark
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  #44  
Old 02-01-2011, 11:04 AM
WhiskeyMike WhiskeyMike is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: WA State
Posts: 192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F1Boss View Post
Hey Bill:

If you want one that hides the wire, I can build it, and Andy will put one of his most cool handles on it. You are asking for a very specialized unit, likely to cost 2x what the original cost. Send me a check and I'll get on it!
Mark, good to know this is an option. When I'm ready I'll reach out to you.
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  #45  
Old 02-01-2011, 11:13 AM
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F1Boss F1Boss is offline
 
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Location: Taylor Texas
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Default Got it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiskeyMike View Post
Mark, good to know this is an option. When I'm ready I'll reach out to you.
Maybe by then I'll figure out some way to do it without spending what equates to a college tuition on the problem...I might be able to re-design the bolt retainer & keep the drum design...use wider spacers & longer stand-offs...but it will take a new lever design....I think...

In any case, a shoebox full of 20s & 50s ought to cover it.

Carry on!
Mark
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  #46  
Old 02-01-2011, 11:19 AM
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rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
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Location: 8I3
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I hid the wires on my throttle quadrant by milling a 3/16" square slot down the back side of the bar and pressed a square extrusion into it that I got from a hobby store. I can post a pic tonight.
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  #47  
Old 02-01-2011, 02:47 PM
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fatboy fatboy is offline
 
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Location: Nashville, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F1Boss View Post
Hey Bill:

If you want one that hides the wire, I can build it, and Andy will put one of his most cool handles on it. You are asking for a very specialized unit, likely to cost 2x what the original cost. Send me a check and I'll get on it!

Carry on!
Mark
Hey Mark -- I just removed the outboard delrin cap spacer. With the steel stiffness in the lever and without the spacer, the throttle lever moves exactly the same -- very smooth and very solid. Here is what I propose for folks wanting to hide the wiring.

1. for a left side mount fatboss1 throttle quadrant, detach the top outboard facing screws.
2. with just a little pressure, pull back the outboard throttle quadrant frame piece just enough to slide off one end of the outboard 1/8th thick delrin spacer. Slide the other end off and remove the delrin spacer.
3. insert (2) AN960-15 washers and (1) "L" version of the AN960-15, at each end. If you use (3) 960-15s the outboard frame bends slightly out.
4. cut out x inches of 1 inch shrink tubing and slide over the exposed grip end of the throttle lever.
5. slide through your conduit/wiring, and guide along the LE of the lever.
6. before heating it up, attach the grip back on the lever
7. with the grip on the lever, check to make sure everything is where you want it and heat it up -- should be nice and clean.

I have NOT done this, so be sure to give this a lot of testing. I have taken some pictures and uploaded to the fatboy site here to show the extra 1/8th inch gap, so without the delrin spacer you should have a 1/4 inch gap -- plenty of space for the coil cord conduit or 7 loose 24 awg wires, or other conduit to slide with the throttle lever staying clear of the delrin sides.

Pictures here:

http://www.fatboythrottles.com/throt...t_pictures.php

-- Andy
more info here: www.fatboythrottlequadrants.com
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  #48  
Old 02-01-2011, 02:57 PM
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F1Boss F1Boss is offline
 
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Location: Taylor Texas
Posts: 660
Default Aw ****

Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboy View Post
Hey Mark -- I just removed the outboard delrin cap spacer. With the steel stiffness in the lever and without the spacer, the throttle lever moves exactly the same -- very smooth and very solid. Here is what I propose for folks wanting to hide the wiring.

1. for a left side mount fatboss1 throttle quadrant, detach the top outboard facing screws.
2. with just a little pressure, pull back the outboard throttle quadrant frame piece just enough to slide off one end of the outboard 1/8th thick delrin spacer. Slide the other end off and remove the delrin spacer.
3. insert (2) AN960-15 washers and (1) "L" version of the AN960-15, at each end. If you use (3) 960-15s the outboard frame bends slightly out.
4. cut out x inches of 1 inch shrink tubing and slide over the exposed grip end of the throttle lever.
5. slide through your conduit/wiring, and guide along the LE of the lever.
6. before heating it up, attach the grip back on the lever
7. with the grip on the lever, check to make sure everything is where you want it and heat it up -- should be nice and clean.

I have NOT done this, so be sure to give this a lot of testing. I have taken some pictures and uploaded to the fatboy site here to show the extra 1/8th inch gap, so without the delrin spacer you should have a 1/4 inch gap -- plenty of space for the coil cord conduit or 7 loose 24 awg wires, or other conduit to slide with the throttle lever staying clear of the delrin sides.

Pictures here:

http://www.fatboythrottles.com/throt...t_pictures.php

-- Andy
more info here: www.fatboythrottlequadrants.com
Well, there goes my financing for my Corsair.

THANKS ANDY!!

Carry on!
Mark
PS Just kidding - that's a good idea. I could actually make the right width spacers easy enough, but they STILL won't give enough profit for me to have that Corsair. I guess I'll settle for the Guillows version...
http://www.guillow.com/GuillowDetail...=25&FamilyId=1
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  #49  
Old 02-03-2011, 08:50 AM
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fatboy fatboy is offline
 
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Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 21
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ok Mark,

After careful Harvard bought FatBoss1 market analysis, it will take EXACTLY 24,193.54 throttle quadrants sold at a projected time frame of 48.38 years IF we sell 500 a year.

At our current rate of transactions, it will take 806.45 years.

I will see you in heaven in your F4U my friend!
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  #50  
Old 02-03-2011, 09:35 AM
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F1Boss F1Boss is offline
 
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Location: Taylor Texas
Posts: 660
Default wonderful...just wonderful.

I have heard good things come to those who wait, but....800 years is a bit outside of my patience quotient. I'm callin' Guillows today.

Carry on!
Mark
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