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  #11  
Old 06-19-2017, 03:40 AM
YvesCH YvesCH is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Basel, Switzerland
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I made a shelf between the Z-bracket between the gear Towers and the Z-bracket behind the baggage compartment. On this shelf I mounted on top the GSU-25 and the GAD-27 and below the GEA-24 and the FLARM (anti collision device mostly used in Europe). Here are some Pictures (not yet finished with the cabling thus it looks not organized).









I hope this helps. I cant yet say if my shelf is stable enough as the Manual calls out a very stable shelf for the GSU-25. But I am confident otherwise I will replace it by a much stronger one.
On the shelf everything is done with anchor nuts to be able to unmount a device more easily. I can reach all the connectors from below the instrument panel or by removing the big GDU-460. So I do not have to deal with nuts and washers once everything is installed. This installation also allows me to remove the baggage floor without having to unscrew something which is mounted to it. Thus it should be easy to check any cable from the panel towards the engine / firewall.
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Last edited by YvesCH : 06-19-2017 at 03:51 AM. Reason: additional information
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  #12  
Old 06-19-2017, 05:42 AM
Robert Anglin Robert Anglin is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: houston, texas
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Default Just fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YvesCH View Post
I made a shelf between the Z-bracket between the gear Towers and the Z-bracket behind the baggage compartment. On this shelf I mounted on top the GSU-25 and the GAD-27 and below the GEA-24 and the FLARM (anti collision device mostly used in Europe). Here are some Pictures (not yet finished with the cabling thus it looks not organized).









I hope this helps. I cant yet say if my shelf is stable enough as the Manual calls out a very stable shelf for the GSU-25. But I am confident otherwise I will replace it by a much stronger one.
On the shelf everything is done with anchor nuts to be able to unmount a device more easily. I can reach all the connectors from below the instrument panel or by removing the big GDU-460. So I do not have to deal with nuts and washers once everything is installed. This installation also allows me to remove the baggage floor without having to unscrew something which is mounted to it. Thus it should be easy to check any cable from the panel towards the engine / firewall.
You should be just fine with this shelf. We made one that goes all the way from the lower lip of the instrument panel to the Z bracket. it is made from 3/16" plate and runs from about 3" from the right side to a little over half way across to the other side. This lets us mount the TX under the shelf, crosswise and most of the other boxes on top. This also stiffens the panel and the AHDAR can be put on the back of the GDU. All we have to do to service or inspect inside is unscrew the 10.6" GDU and pull it out of the way, with the quick little Safe Air fittings on the back of the AHDAR, the unit can be taken out in less than two minutes and put on the wing or bench out of the way. Good work, keep it up. Yours, R.E.A. III #80888

Last edited by Robert Anglin : 06-19-2017 at 05:45 AM.
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  #13  
Old 06-19-2017, 06:07 AM
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humptybump humptybump is offline
 
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Location: Eastern Shore of Virginia
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I have an existing shelf between the two Z braces. It has the remote transponder. I will replace it will a larger one to accommodate the GeA24.

Of course, this work would be an order of magnitude easier "during a build" then as a redux since nearly everything needs to be accomplished from within the cockpit and through the panel.
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  #14  
Old 06-19-2017, 02:25 PM
Robert Anglin Robert Anglin is offline
 
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Location: houston, texas
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Default Little things.

Quote:
Originally Posted by humptybump View Post
I have an existing shelf between the two Z braces. It has the remote transponder. I will replace it will a larger one to accommodate the GeA24.

Of course, this work would be an order of magnitude easier "during a build" then as a redux since nearly everything needs to be accomplished from within the cockpit and through the panel.
If you cut out the upper panel between the instrument and baggage and also make the hinge pin removable for the front baggage door, you can come in from both sides if you like. Just an extra idea that worked for us. Yours, R.E.A. III #80888

P.S. we did this all after the airframe was all together. Its not that bad.

Last edited by Robert Anglin : 06-19-2017 at 02:32 PM.
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  #15  
Old 06-19-2017, 04:49 PM
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humptybump humptybump is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Anglin View Post
If you cut out the upper panel between the instrument and baggage and also make the hinge pin removable for the front baggage door, you can come in from both sides if you like.
I can't imagine how you cut that area, added all the necessary nut plates and riveted the hinge..

Any change you got some photos?
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  #16  
Old 06-19-2017, 05:38 PM
Robert Anglin Robert Anglin is offline
 
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Location: houston, texas
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Default No need.

Quote:
Originally Posted by humptybump View Post
I can't imagine how you cut that area, added all the necessary nut plates and riveted the hinge..

Any change you got some photos?
Drimal cut-off disk, throw the cut-out into the spares box, make a cover plate and put 8-32 screws about every two inches or so. You squeeze the nut plates to the bulked from the inside, with the instrument panel out of the way.
After you prime everything first that is. Hope this helps, just what we did.
Yours, R.E.A. III #80888
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  #17  
Old 06-19-2017, 09:35 PM
LNSelf LNSelf is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Gardner, Ks
Posts: 56
Default 20 or 22 Gauge thermocouple wire will work

I wanted to add to an earlier comment about thermocouple wire being 22 gauge. With the GEA 24, either 20 or 22 gauge thermocouple wire will work. The GEA 24 uses standard density DSUB pins which can handle the 20 gauge wire. From my experience, the 20 gauge wire is cheaper and more readily available.
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  #18  
Old 06-20-2017, 04:18 AM
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humptybump humptybump is offline
 
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Location: Eastern Shore of Virginia
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Thanks Levi. That is good data to know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jthocker View Post
Glen,
There are no wires in the sensor kit for the EGT/ CHT probes.
You will need to get some 22 gauge type K thermocouple wire for that.
I asked G3Xpert the question regarding probe wires. Here is the message I received:

Quote:
The length of the EGT and CHT wires are not critical. The extension wire for the EGT and CHT does have to match the wire that the probes have. This is usually Alumel/Chromel wiring and it red and yellow in color. This is for the Type K thermocouple EGT and CHT probes that come with the 4 cylinder engine kit.
This suggests there is wire attached to the probes. I am a bit confused. It looks like there is wire but it's not clear if it's a pigtail or a few feet.
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  #19  
Old 06-20-2017, 04:59 AM
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g3xpert g3xpert is offline
 
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Hello Glen,

There is about 12" of wire on the CHT probe and 10" on the EGT probe.





There is a large section in the G3X Installation Manual dealing with EGT/CHT probe installation. Page 23-15 of the Rev. AB manual explains that you will need to obtain the appropriate amount of 22 AWG type K thermocouple extension wire and even provides a supplier and part number for this wire.

Many of the common aviation electrical parts suppliers also stock type K extension wire. As Levi reported, you should also be able to use 20 AWG type K extension wire which is more readily available.

Thanks,
Steve
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  #20  
Old 06-20-2017, 05:00 AM
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jthocker jthocker is offline
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The probes have about 1 foot of wire and a #4 red ring terminal attached.
You will need some # 4 ring terminals to mate up to the probe terminals.
#4 screws, nuts, and lock washers are supplied with the probes.

Yes, 20 or 22 gauge wire will work. A friend ordered 24 gauge from Spruce and although it will work, it looks like it might be a pain to strip.
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