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  #1  
Old 05-25-2017, 06:05 PM
mciaglia mciaglia is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Houston, TX
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Default Tailcone curve riveting

Before I screw up my whole tailcone. Does anyone have some good advise on riveting the curved portion of the skins to the flanges?
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  #2  
Old 05-25-2017, 06:54 PM
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spaceflightmeow spaceflightmeow is offline
 
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Not sure of the specific area you're referring to but if the concern is about smileys from a flush set, I can say that my Avery swivel flush set has made that a non-issue, since the rubber cub around the set prevents the edges from hitting the skin. (I had to shave the rubber cup down on a belt sander so that the set wouldn't be too recessed in the cup.)
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Old 05-25-2017, 07:16 PM
mciaglia mciaglia is offline
 
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I'm referring to the lower portion of the side skins as they wrap underneath to meet with the bottom
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Old 05-25-2017, 08:50 PM
AviatorJ AviatorJ is offline
 
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Just hold the gun perpendicular to the direction you're driving the rivet.
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Old 05-25-2017, 09:06 PM
civengpe civengpe is offline
 
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Can you back rivet those? I remember back riveting my entire tailcone.
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  #6  
Old 05-26-2017, 06:01 AM
AdamB AdamB is offline
 
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I too back riveted the majority of my tailcone.

I pretty much ended up shooting those rivets though, as I found it was hard (solo) to
keep the tailcone assembly from rocking back and forth with the curved section sitting on the backing plate on my bench. I got a few to go in fine, but was too inconsistent, at least for me.
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  #7  
Old 05-26-2017, 06:33 AM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AviatorJ View Post
Just hold the gun perpendicular to the direction you're driving the rivet.
This. I don't recall setting those rivets to be particularly difficult (admittedly it's been awhile). The key, even with a swivel flush set, is to get the gun in a good, comfortable position relative to the surface so that it doesn't walk when you press the trigger.

Oh and I didn't back rivet squat beyond the control surfaces where back riveting was specifically called out in the plans and my riveting turned out just fine. IOW back riveting is "a" way but not "the" way.
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Old 05-26-2017, 06:59 AM
mciaglia mciaglia is offline
 
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Thanks for all the advice. I started back riveting then switched to driving/bucking and they turned out great. I felt like I was spending more time trying to balance the tailcone to make sure it was on the back rivet plate. I can't tell the difference between the several back rivets and the bucked ones
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  #9  
Old 05-26-2017, 05:20 PM
civengpe civengpe is offline
 
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I back riveted the tail cone with a another bloke holding a massive bucking bar on the outside.

I basicly set the tailcone upside down on saw horses and sat inside the upside down canoe. He was on the outside with a bug mushroom shaped bucking bar.

https://goo.gl/photos/1CaAkwQ23iha4nhY8
https://goo.gl/photos/sQSqhmHWU5s99pRD6

Edit: upon reviewing the photos, I was on the outside....
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Last edited by civengpe : 05-26-2017 at 05:28 PM.
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  #10  
Old 05-26-2017, 06:17 PM
sjhurlbut sjhurlbut is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 511
Default no luck

I've never had luck back riveting any surface that has a flange or is curved. The cupped flush rivet set will do a good job. Just make sure to keep it perpendicular.

I find one thing that really helps is weighing the structure down. Its hard to get a good push on the rivet gun since the tail cone is so light. I use pillows and blankets to protect the skins and clear the bulkheads then lay a case of laminate flooring across them. Weighs about 30 lbs and really makes riveting the structure easier.
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