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  #11  
Old 02-21-2017, 03:04 PM
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humptybump humptybump is online now
 
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If you want tungsten, then the above mentioned is the way to go. If you want something you'll enjoy at the end of the day, might I suggest THE Bucking Bar ...

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  #12  
Old 02-21-2017, 03:36 PM
xblueh2o xblueh2o is offline
 
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Location: SF East Bay
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I have two tungsten bars.
I refer to them as the Snickers Bar and the Brownie because they are about those sizes. I use the Snickers Bar 90% of the time.
I helped a friend build a set of T-6 wings and we used the Snickers Bar almost exclusively and on the few places I had to use an oddly shaped steel bar it was such a difference. Using Tungsten is so much easier.
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  #13  
Old 02-21-2017, 04:18 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default Tungsten bar

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
Thanks, Bob and everyone else. The guy with his arm in the lightening holes will likely be me, as I think bucking is more critical than gun operation (with a mushroom set). I will use the arm protector, and I will be the one to blame if the bar is dropped and dents a top skin from the inside

There is a technique I've heard of using safety wire to fold back the skins for access while riveting, and gradually let them uncurl as the sheet is tacked down. Anyone have pics or details?
I used the same one too ever since I got it.
On the skins, I ran a string through the end hole and tethered it so it would stay open but not splayed open so far it would crease or dent. I made several wood wedges and used various thicknesses of popsicle sticks too. They were used so I could blindly use the bar and know it was oriented correctly. I also made a string lanyard to keep it from falling and denting a skin.
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  #14  
Old 02-21-2017, 08:21 PM
dave4754 dave4754 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Edson, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 365
Default Glad I read this

I never thought of dropping the bar. With a mild arthritic prob I drop it all the time on the easy stuff.

Tungsten tungsten tungsten

I have several steel and a variety of angles on them which come in handy. Bought them all second hand.

But MY tungsten is FIRST choice every time
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  #15  
Old 02-21-2017, 08:47 PM
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RV6_flyer RV6_flyer is offline
 
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Location: Uniontown, PA
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Default Favorite Old and New Bucking bars

I had a favorite steel bucking bar that I used between 28 and 20 years ago that I used to build my RV-6.

My favorite bucking bar for building my RV-8 is the same weight but Tungsten.



Here are the two bucking bars. IMHO, the shape you like in bucking bars is just like headsets and underwear. There is no right or wrong, just a preferred.
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  #16  
Old 02-22-2017, 09:13 AM
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
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Default thanks, everyone.

Bought a 5/8 x 1 x 4 tungsten off a famous auction site from an RV7A builder.

Glen, I will make it up there eventually for a cold one!
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  #17  
Old 02-22-2017, 09:50 AM
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ppilotmike ppilotmike is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
There is a technique I've heard of using safety wire to fold back the skins for access while riveting, and gradually let them uncurl as the sheet is tacked down. Anyone have pics or details?
There are pictures on my weblog http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displa...=195608&row=36, but basically, I used string, tied through the lowest rivet hole and then wrapped the string around clecos farther up the structure in order to hold the skin open for me to buck the rivets in my wing. BTW, I did every one of them solo.. Have fun!
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  #18  
Old 02-22-2017, 02:08 PM
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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That was the general idea. Mike. Thanks for the link to your pix. Self-explanatory.
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  #19  
Old 06-06-2017, 10:25 PM
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FL-flyer FL-flyer is offline
 
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Location: Sarasota, FL
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Hey guys,

This was a great thread on tungsten bucking bars. I think i am going to order one tomorrow. It looks like the majority of you are using 5/8" x 1" x 4" bar, but isn't the 4" length too much for this bar to fit squarely into rib flanges?
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  #20  
Old 06-06-2017, 11:23 PM
tgmillso tgmillso is offline
 
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Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
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One end of the bar has a slight angle on it, so you can buck the rivets on one flange and still clear the flange below. Once you have two skins on, the bar is so dense that you can just hold it sideways and still buck rivets well. It's the one to get for sure, and the use of it will be very intuitive.
Tom.
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