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  #1  
Old 06-01-2014, 09:47 AM
bhoppe2 bhoppe2 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: nolensville, TN
Posts: 15
Default RV-10 window installation

I have read the many threads about installing windows in the RV-10. Apparently, most are using Weld-0n 10 following Van's procedure. However, I was wondering if anyone has used PPG PR-1829, which is the material used by Cirrus to install their windows. PPG claims it does not cause crazing and has good adhesion with our materials.
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  #2  
Old 06-01-2014, 02:04 PM
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rleffler rleffler is offline
 
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Location: Delaware, OH (KDLZ)
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I used Lord adhesive. Windows have been in for almost two years. Painted in Dec 12. No cracks or issues as of yet. I also glassed over the seems.

You can get the adhesive from Geoff at Aerosport Products. It's not on the web site at the moment, so you'll have to give him a call.
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  #3  
Old 06-01-2014, 02:13 PM
Zac@AerosportProducts Zac@AerosportProducts is offline
 
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Location: Columbus OH-IO
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As Bob mentioned, we sell Lord Adhesive for the windows and windscreen. We offer the applicator guns and 215 mL tubes of the adhesive. We recommend three tubes to do your windows and windscreen. This adhesive is also recommended for installing our overhead console. If you have any questions let me know. Zac@AerosportProducts.com
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  #4  
Old 06-01-2014, 10:41 PM
N427EF N427EF is offline
 
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I would never blame anyone for trying something new on an Experimental airplane, it's the kind of thing that keeps everyone interested.
Weld-on is included in your kit and is an excellent choice for your windows.
Crazing occurs when you apply too much pressure to the window while Weld-on cures. Follow Vans instructions to the letter and all will be well with your windows.
As to your questions about yet another window adhesive, sorry can't help you.
Hope that helps....
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  #5  
Old 06-02-2014, 08:01 AM
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johngoodman johngoodman is offline
 
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Location: Peachtree City, Georgia
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I used Weld On. It's a nasty product. I'll never use it again for anything. Just my opinion.

John
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  #6  
Old 06-02-2014, 08:27 AM
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9GT 9GT is offline
 
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Location: Southern Michigan
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I used epoxy/flox mix for all my transparencies with two layers of BID fiberglass over the joints. It is a well proven method of installation that has been used by the Rutan crowd for over 30 years. I used Weldon to install a compass mount in my Cessna years ago and there was crazing within 6 months. With all the reports of crazing showing up on the forums there was no way I was going to use it on my -10.
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  #7  
Old 06-02-2014, 10:26 AM
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Gaylon Gaylon is offline
 
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I used LORD adhesive also. Just installed the windows on Friday. Was a very easy process. Call Zac and he will set you up with what you need. The only messy part is pulling off the tape.
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  #8  
Old 06-04-2014, 08:33 AM
bhoppe2 bhoppe2 is offline
 
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Location: nolensville, TN
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Thanks for the feedback. I ordered the Lord adhesive from Zac yesterday.
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  #9  
Old 06-04-2014, 09:14 AM
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blahphish blahphish is offline
 
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I'm glad this thread had a happy ending (you used Lord adhesive). I share the same sentiment as John. We did one window on our -10 with weld on and the rest with Lord. Never again would I want to mess with weld on.
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  #10  
Old 04-07-2015, 11:11 AM
GregMac GregMac is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Albany Western Australia
Posts: 31
Default RV-10 Window Installation

Because of Dangerous Goods shipping concerns it is not possible to get Weld On included in the kit here in Oz. Because I was using West Sytem epoxy products I used their recommended product GFlex to "glue" the screen, doors and back windows into the cabin top. With the appropriate flox (306) added, this product was good to work with and certainly fixed the windows in. The plans call for lower outside windscreen fairing to be build up of layers of glass and epoxy onto clean roughened (sanded) ally and bottom of screen and this is what I did using West System 105 Resin & 206 Hardener, I also filled the transition gap around all windows with the same resin/hardener & 306 added. Two layers of light glass over the filled gap to carry the paint and stop paint cracks later finished the window install. After sanding, filling etc job looked tight and neat. Now many months later the fuse is in the paint shop to be professionally painted, these guys are very particular and while masking around the rear widows and trimming etc they drew my attention to small areas where the transition glass covering had not adhered,a razor blade could be pushed between the window and fibreglass, I hoped they were wrong and that this was only possible because the covering was thin and the blade was being forced in destroying the bond. ALAS, further investigation confirmed that ALL the outside coverings including the bottom screen fairing had failed to adhere to the window material, because the lower fairing was much thicker and was very tight to the screen because of the curve, the lack of adhesion was more difficult to confirm. I contacted my experienced West System supplier and they were not at all surprised that the epoxy hadn't bonded, their only true recommended product for plastics and as it turns out aluminium as well is GFlex. My fix after a lesson hard learned, remove all the transition fairings, the only hard bit of that was removale from the cabin top side, the window side simply came away. Remove most of the lower windscreen fairing and rebuild using GFlex as the "epoxy". Route (carefully) around all edges of all windows to remove the epoxy/flox mix and replace with GFlex & 306 flox. The painters will now remask the windows at the previous transition fairing edge position and paint directly onto the sanded window material and across the filled joint. If the GFlex holds adhesion and because as the name suggests the product allows some expansion then hopefully I may not get paint cracks but time will tell. FYI only, Your journey may be different, apologies for such a long post.
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