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  #111  
Old 03-30-2017, 02:11 PM
Iluke Iluke is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hope Valley, Rhode Island
Posts: 104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymo View Post
If installing the fuel pump/filter on the inside, just forward of the selector valve, the firewall doubler won't be needed as depicted in OP 32.

For the brake reservoir, I only drilled out one existing rivet, if I recall. I don't think the spacing of the reservoir holes is not the same as the rivet spacing.
Ray-

I may have misspoke, but I think is is the firewall doubler shown on DWG 19 that you don't need if you're installing the fuel injection high pressure inside pump. I'm referring to the F-601Z Aux Fuel Pump Doubler shown in the lower right hand corner of DWG 19.

The doubler shown on Op 32, if I am reading the plans right, is needed even with the FI pump to strengthen the firewall where the fuel line passes through.

If I'm understanding this wrong (it's happened, let me tell you!), please set me straight..

r/
Ivan
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  #112  
Old 05-21-2017, 10:04 PM
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jcarne jcarne is online now
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Worland, Wyoming
Posts: 327
Default Riveting order on elevators. E-703 and E-704 to E-702

I have attached a picture with a red arrow. The plans have you rivet E-704 and E-703 together before attaching to the elevator spar. However, when you go to rivet these ribs to the elevator spar you can't get most squeezers on these two rivets and they are difficult to buck as you need to use an offset tool. You can avoid this problem if you FIRST rivet E-704 to the spar and then rivet E-703 rib to E-704.

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  #113  
Old 06-29-2017, 07:51 AM
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Lemmingman Lemmingman is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 663
Default R-911 Rudder Bottom Fairing for RV7

This is for the RV7 only. When you are fitting your R-911, make sure you take the tail wheel spring into account. The diagram shows a 3/16" distance between the spring and fairing. I dont think this can be accurate. When the tail is on the ground it is going to flex some. I have 3/8" on mine and I'm comfortable with that. I have seen other posters here that have as much as 3/4".
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  #114  
Old 10-07-2017, 06:15 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 4,007
Default Wing Install - RV-7 Spar bolts

DWG 11 clearly shows that the lower bolts have washers under the aft heads, and upper bolts get a washer under the nut on the forward side. But - the lower bolts have a gusset under the nuts. Thickness of the washer and nut it is 1/8". Since the all bolts are the same length, an additional washer will be needed or the nut will bottom out on the bolt shoulder before clamping on the upper bolts.

"Proof" This picture clearly shows an exposed bolt and a tight bolt with nut and two standard washers. I will reconfigure with one washer on each end.

Get some extra washers, and make a note on your drawing to put washers under the heads of all the main spar bolts. You will need them. (edit)

BTW - I machined two progressive sizes of burnish pins to burnish/align the thinner webs. There were lubed and driven all holes and resulted in removable bolts that were assembled with no chilling.

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Op Lims in hand 12-7-17
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Last edited by BillL : 10-08-2017 at 12:25 PM.
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  #115  
Old 10-07-2017, 07:09 PM
tgmillso tgmillso is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 495
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Hi Bill. Good find. This happens a lot throughout the build, so it's handy to have an assortment of regular and thin washers in hand and verify bolt length requirements are satisfied before taking to final torque. That said, there is a note in this case at the top of the Front Wing Spar Attach Detail in DWG 11 that says ad AN960-716 and AN960-416 washers as required to the top bolts.
Tom.

Last edited by tgmillso : 10-07-2017 at 07:17 PM.
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