stud removal mags

Instead of removing the stud from the engine case to install the left Pmag, has anyone ever tried adding threads to the existing stud and cut off what is too long? I am having trouble with one stubborn stud.

I wouldn't cut threads on a hardened stud. These are typically formed (rolled) into the material instead of using a die. This results in a much stronger stud with no stress risers in the thread notch like you would get by cutting it. Your modified stud won't take the full rated torque of an un-modified one.

These are usually installed with loc-tite. Did you try heating the stud? This breaks down the loc-tite and then they normally need little coaxing other than maybe a pair of vise grips.

Don

Stud Removal Tool

Double nutting sometimes does not provide enough clamping force to remove the stud. You need to borrow a collet type stud removal tool. I think its a 5/16" coarse thread. And, one lesson that I learned was, do not return the tool until you have used it to insert the new stud to the correct height. Be aware that studs have a slightly larger diameter thread on the engine side than on the nut side, and use a thread sealer before inserting the stud.

The collet style tool is the way to go, but other tricks are a little valve grinding compound on threads of the double nut method, and using "high" nuts if you can get two on there. A little local heat on the assessory case while turning should work also.
Tim Andres

Heat is key. I've removed my fair share of these studs and have yet to break one. Collet type tools are the best, but tripple jam nuts and vice grips work too (as long as you dont worry about using the stud again).

Stud Removed

I was ready to do major engine work, but found two nuts with lock washers attached. Used some heat(heatgun) on the stud and Kroil, came off with very little problem. Now a happier camper.