Barnstormer
Member
Sup ya'll,
Does anyone have a better idea than the usual black rubber trim on RV6 wing fairing gaps?
Thanks
Pat
Does anyone have a better idea than the usual black rubber trim on RV6 wing fairing gaps?
Thanks
Pat
Van's Air Force
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Wing root fairng
- Thread starter Barnstormer
- Start date
woodmanrog
Well Known Member
Use what Van designed
I had the fiberglas wingroot fairings on my first RV. I was advised to remove them as they had a lot of parasitic drag. I removed them and went to the standard setup and gained 8 knots. I know the rubber intersection piece can be a pain but it is still the best solution. You could always use duct tape.
I had the fiberglas wingroot fairings on my first RV. I was advised to remove them as they had a lot of parasitic drag. I removed them and went to the standard setup and gained 8 knots. I know the rubber intersection piece can be a pain but it is still the best solution. You could always use duct tape.
pierre smith
Well Known Member
The -10's don't have one
It's pretty easy to cut them to fit snugly against the fuselage with no fairing, like my -10.
Best,
It's pretty easy to cut them to fit snugly against the fuselage with no fairing, like my -10.
Best,
Cadstat
Well Known Member
Wing Root fairings
I have the fairings on my wing roots on the 6A. They look great. I heard they slow you down. The gap is too large I think to go to the black rubber strip I've seen on other RVs. Does any one know what I might try? I can only get 170-2 MPH tops and I'd like to go faster. I'm a big fan of duct tape but not for this application.
I have the fairings on my wing roots on the 6A. They look great. I heard they slow you down. The gap is too large I think to go to the black rubber strip I've seen on other RVs. Does any one know what I might try? I can only get 170-2 MPH tops and I'd like to go faster. I'm a big fan of duct tape but not for this application.
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On my -7A, I trimmed the wing fairing to be 3/32" from the fuselage and, in over 6 years of flying 700 hrs., haven't any problems with the black rubber trim ("h" channel) staying in place, i.e. coming loose at either end and flapping against the airframe.
I guess some like the fairing look better, but my experience with the rubber trim has been without complaint. I had thought about increasing the 3/32" to and 1/8" or so, but replacing the rubber trim only costs $12 or $15, so I'll just replace when necessary.
Mike
I had problems here too
I am not sure if the gap was too tight or not, but the first time I tried to trim the aluminum I would take it to the scotchbrite wheel and clean it up afterwords. The last time I trimmed I didn't do that, my thinking was who cares if it is a little jagged, maybe it will help it hold, and it has, for the last 75 hours or so. YMMV.
Randy
8A
I am not sure if the gap was too tight or not, but the first time I tried to trim the aluminum I would take it to the scotchbrite wheel and clean it up afterwords. The last time I trimmed I didn't do that, my thinking was who cares if it is a little jagged, maybe it will help it hold, and it has, for the last 75 hours or so. YMMV.
Randy
8A
Make new aluminum closure strips for proper fit
I know you like speed from your previous posts. If the aluminum closure strip is too narrow because of the original installation, I would make new ones and seal it with the proper rubber strip. This assembly is one that requires a lot of constant attention and progressive work to get it right. Even then, in spite of what the conservative fliers tell you when you fly really fast and make a smooth but exhilarating zoom climb after crossing a finish line the upper aft end of the rubber will come out, no matter how tight it is jambed against the fuselage, and make you think you broke something as it swirls in a corkscrew fashion beating against everything in its reach. It needs to be glued in place with 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive after fitting and it will stay in place "forever." Areas like this are where some of the less carefully built clues show up, along with fairing fits or omissions, canopy details, etc. I am glad some one tried the big Spitfire fairings and reported the results as being slower - I wondered.
Bob Axsom
I know you like speed from your previous posts. If the aluminum closure strip is too narrow because of the original installation, I would make new ones and seal it with the proper rubber strip. This assembly is one that requires a lot of constant attention and progressive work to get it right. Even then, in spite of what the conservative fliers tell you when you fly really fast and make a smooth but exhilarating zoom climb after crossing a finish line the upper aft end of the rubber will come out, no matter how tight it is jambed against the fuselage, and make you think you broke something as it swirls in a corkscrew fashion beating against everything in its reach. It needs to be glued in place with 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive after fitting and it will stay in place "forever." Areas like this are where some of the less carefully built clues show up, along with fairing fits or omissions, canopy details, etc. I am glad some one tried the big Spitfire fairings and reported the results as being slower - I wondered.
Bob Axsom
