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  #11  
Old 11-29-2018, 06:22 AM
DaveO DaveO is offline
 
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Please ignore my previous post as I was mistaken as to what you were trying to do.
Sorry
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  #12  
Old 11-29-2018, 08:32 AM
iamtheari iamtheari is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davoakes@att.net View Post
Please ignore my previous post as I was mistaken as to what you were trying to do.
Sorry
I can't ignore your suggestion because it got me thinking. A wider piece of material could be riveted at more points to the original brackets. The better we spread the load to the airframe, the safer the solution ought to be.

I wish I could find a way to utilize all of the original rivet holes but I'm not seeing a way to improve my solution that would make use of them.
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  #13  
Old 11-29-2018, 12:36 PM
DaveO DaveO is offline
 
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Ok,
Let us think in a different way.

Keep the original bracket but cut off the opposite end. ie.. What you have outlined in blue, move it to the right (picture) all the way to attach the PH actuator end and cut off the left portion of the bracket. Therefore you now have a shorter bracket to accommodate the difference for the length of the PH. Also, this will cause the new bracket to be wider to fit the PH unit. Now, drill new holes in different positions to attach the new bracket to the frame. I think you might still need the angle piece to stiffen the bracket.
What you think?
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RV-7A N1243A Sold
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  #14  
Old 11-29-2018, 04:26 PM
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Pat Hatch Pat Hatch is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamtheari View Post
I can't ignore your suggestion because it got me thinking. A wider piece of material could be riveted at more points to the original brackets. The better we spread the load to the airframe, the safer the solution ought to be.

I wish I could find a way to utilize all of the original rivet holes but I'm not seeing a way to improve my solution that would make use of them.
Ari, I like your solution so far a lot. For the angle extensions I would suggest at least a 1" angle, perhaps 1 1/2", by 0.063", so you will have plenty of edge distance for the required 5/16" hole to attach the actuator. I don't think you can cut the existing bracket from the other end because that attaches to the crossover structure above the seat post as seen in the earlier photos. Looking good.

Suggestion: Resize your photos to 900 pixels wide before posting them and you will find that they size up much nicer on your monitor.
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Last edited by Pat Hatch : 11-29-2018 at 04:33 PM.
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  #15  
Old 11-29-2018, 04:36 PM
iamtheari iamtheari is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat Hatch View Post
Ari, I like your solution so far a lot. For the angle extensions I would suggest at least a 1" angle, perhaps 1 1/2", by 0.063", so you will have plenty of edge distance for the required 5/16" hole to attach the actuator. I don't think you can cut the existing bracket from the other end because that attaches to the crossover structure above the seat post as seen in the earlier photos. Looking good.

Suggestion: Resize your photos to 900 pixels wide before posting them and you will find that they size up much nicer on your monitor.
I'll have to see what angle material I am able to pick up locally. Any thoughts on those abandoned rivet holes?

As far as the picture size goes, I normally do fix that before posting but missed that step last night. I'm planning to re-do them in the near future so this thread isn't so annoying for people to participate in.
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  #16  
Old 11-29-2018, 05:33 PM
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Pat Hatch Pat Hatch is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamtheari View Post
I'll have to see what angle material I am able to pick up locally. Any thoughts on those abandoned rivet holes?
What I would do is dimple and set rivets in them. You could also fill the holes with micro and sand them flush.

P.S. You might look around elsewhere in your kit for the angle material and replace what you use later from Spruce. Better yet, if you'll tell me how long they need to be I'll cut a couple of pieces for you and mail them to you.
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RV-4 (Gone to RV heaven)
RV-6 (N44PH - Flying)
RV-7 (Sold)
RV-8 (Helped build Bob Lund's airplane)
www.phaviation.com Trim Relay Boards/Flap Actuators
www.pathatch.com/blog (Photography)
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Last edited by Pat Hatch : 11-29-2018 at 05:40 PM.
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  #17  
Old 11-29-2018, 06:40 PM
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Pat Hatch Pat Hatch is offline
 
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Default RV-14 Flap Bracket

Ari, here's a suggestion for trimming the bracket. It also utilizes a couple more of the existing rivet holes.

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RV-4 (Gone to RV heaven)
RV-6 (N44PH - Flying)
RV-7 (Sold)
RV-8 (Helped build Bob Lund's airplane)
www.phaviation.com Trim Relay Boards/Flap Actuators
www.pathatch.com/blog (Photography)
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  #18  
Old 11-29-2018, 08:22 PM
DaveO DaveO is offline
 
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Pat, I like yiur thoughts, I do not have the fuselage to understand the situation completely, so I made some wild ideas .
Thanks
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  #19  
Old 11-29-2018, 08:23 PM
DaveO DaveO is offline
 
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Pat, I like your thoughts, I do not have the fuselage to understand the situation completely, so I made some wild guesses.
Thanks
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RV-7A N1243A Sold
#140479 RV-14A N1479B Reserved
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  #20  
Old 11-29-2018, 11:14 PM
iamtheari iamtheari is offline
 
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Pat:

I like your suggested cut, which should still allow plenty of room for the small angle of pivoting that the flap actuator will need. I have one of the bracket pieces in my kitchen now so I'll remember to do some tracing, measuring, and drafting for the new brackets. That's one of my weekend projects, in between priming other pieces.
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