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  #21  
Old 01-08-2019, 08:02 PM
AZSteve053 AZSteve053 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Payson, Arizona
Posts: 7
Default Possible failure path...

If indeed you do have two master solenoids wired in parallel & two master switches - do you also have two diodes, one for each master solenoid coil? If two solenoid coils are wired in parallel - the kick back current (on shut off) can be much higher than a single solenoid & if the diode installed (single diode) is not capable of the current then it would fail at some point - allowing the kickback current & resultant arc to kill your master switch(s) contacts over time.
Just something to ponder.
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  #22  
Old 01-09-2019, 01:50 AM
Yen Yen is offline
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Benaraby Queensland. Australia
Posts: 182
Default

Just to back up Ralphs comment. Always look at the earth side early on in your diagnosis. I had a totally flat battery I thought. No volts readable with a multimeter. I removed the battery and it showed 12+ on a meter, so I was dubious about it being flat. Took it home and it was charged in no time.
Put it back in the plane and could read volts, so all good. Buttoned everything up and wheeled the plane out. Nothing. No volts.
I removed the front top of fuselage above the panel and what do I see, but all earths go to a forest of lugs and the one lug with a heavy wire, going back to battery has come adrift, only just adrift so that it can make contact if pushed slightly. Replacing the radio after replacing the battery moved it just enough to make contact but rolling the plane out broke it again.
I had a similar problem some time ago. I have LEDs across the fuses, the theory being that the LED will light if the fuse fails. I had a fuse fail, but it looked OK. I put a multimeter across the fuse contacts and it showed 12V, but it was only reading the flow through the LED.
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  #23  
Old 01-12-2019, 09:19 AM
Sumo Sumo is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 22
Default

.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0nB2...A#Manassas,_VA
Here’s the electrical drawing of the area of interest - freezing hands and slow flowing ink in the hangar today.

Spending the morning tracing and troubleshooting. As per standard “could it duplicate” today. Or rather, the problem is manifesting differently.

Resting battery, nothing on today is 12.4 V. Oddessy PC680. Lower than it should be, especially right off the battery tender. Clue 1. Checked voltages all along the path in the picture. Nothing unexpected.

I can turn on the master (via either switch now that I see how it’s meched - interesting redundancy and a lesson me (non-builder) to better understand the systems!). I can turn on all the electrical systems. Voltages readings aroud 11.8 now.

On to normal start up sequence, engage the starter and the entire electrical system shuts down.
I connect it to a good battery external and now everything works.

Sometimes it is the simplest solution - I sure went down an odd path because I was biting off on the voltage immediately after removing the battery tender then didn’t check again later.

Thanks for the suggestions and encouragement to better learn my system.

Last edited by Sumo : 01-12-2019 at 09:21 AM. Reason: Link
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  #24  
Old 01-12-2019, 11:02 AM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 3,485
Default

Reading voltage on a battery does not prove it's condition.......

You need a load tester... https://www.harborfreight.com/100-am...9888-9191.html
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  #25  
Old 01-12-2019, 12:21 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,343
Default

Sumo,

See post #3. :-)
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  #26  
Old 01-12-2019, 12:28 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 3,429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumo View Post
.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0nB2...A#Manassas,_VA
Here’s the electrical drawing of the area of interest - freezing hands and slow flowing ink in the hangar today.

Spending the morning tracing and troubleshooting. As per standard “could it duplicate” today. Or rather, the problem is manifesting differently.

Resting battery, nothing on today is 12.4 V. Oddessy PC680. Lower than it should be, especially right off the battery tender. Clue 1. Checked voltages all along the path in the picture. Nothing unexpected.



I can turn on the master (via either switch now that I see how it’s meched - interesting redundancy and a lesson me (non-builder) to better understand the systems!). I can turn on all the electrical systems. Voltages readings aroud 11.8 now.

On to normal start up sequence, engage the starter and the entire electrical system shuts down.
I connect it to a good battery external and now everything works.

Sometimes it is the simplest solution - I sure went down an odd path because I was biting off on the voltage immediately after removing the battery tender then didn’t check again later.

Thanks for the suggestions and encouragement to better learn my system.
Glad you found the problem. For future, you should know that battery tenders and odyssey batteries don't make good partners.

Larry
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RV-6A / IO-320, Flying as of 8/2015
RV-10 in progress
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  #27  
Old 01-12-2019, 12:36 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lr172 View Post
Glad you found the problem. For future, you should know that battery tenders and odyssey batteries don't make good partners.

Larry
+1. A few guys say they've had good luck leaving SLA batteries on 'smart' chargers, but many more have had early battery death while using them. SLA batteries just don't 'self-discharge' like flooded cell batteries, so maintainers are fixing something that 'ain't broke'.

I've used SLA batteries (cheap, no-name versions; not Odysseys) for a couple of decades, and I typically get 4-5 years out of them. And my plane sometimes sits for a month or more without flying. Only time I'll hit it with a charger is if it won't crank the plane, which is rare.

Charlie
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