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  #31  
Old 01-09-2019, 09:35 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
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I took a tiny bit more material off the forward edge of the canopy in the central area than the plans would have suggested - is this an effective strategy to reduce risk of this happening? I'm also going to carefully check / remove sealant in the area on fuse.
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  #32  
Old 01-10-2019, 06:45 PM
Arablenz Arablenz is offline
 
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Just looking at this on my plane as I close up the last of the forward top skin.
Section 35-22 step 5 says to fill the gaps in the relief notches with proseal. I read it that you don't seal right along there with proseal only the relief notches.
Is there any reason to proseal right along there if it cause the canopy seal to stick and bend the canopy skin?
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  #33  
Old 01-10-2019, 07:51 PM
Tom023 Tom023 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arablenz View Post
Just looking at this on my plane as I close up the last of the forward top skin.
Section 35-22 step 5 says to fill the gaps in the relief notches with proseal. I read it that you don't seal right along there with proseal only the relief notches.
Is there any reason to proseal right along there if it cause the canopy seal to stick and bend the canopy skin?
Step 5 is to fill just the relief notches by taping over them and spreading proseal from the inside under the forward skin. The tape keeps the proseal flush with the F-01455 so the canopy skin forward edge can sit flush.

Step 6 has you run a bead of sealant in the gap between the F-01455 and F-01455C’s otherwise water could work its way between them. The problem is when this bead is to thick/wide and rides up onto the F-01455.
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Last edited by Tom023 : 01-10-2019 at 08:08 PM.
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  #34  
Old 01-10-2019, 08:07 PM
Arablenz Arablenz is offline
 
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Thanks. I understand clearer now.
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  #35  
Old 01-11-2019, 07:48 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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Quote:
Step 5 is to fill just the relief notches by taping over them and spreading proseal from the inside under the forward skin. The tape keeps the proseal flush with the F-01455 so the canopy skin forward edge can sit flush.

Step 6 has you run a bead of sealant in the gap between the F-01455 and F-01455Cís otherwise water could work its way between them. The problem is when this bead is to thick/wide and rides up onto the F-01455.
Apparently, for some reason, the QB folks go back and put a thick bead of proseal over the entire area. It's clear that they did the steps correctly but why they went back and put another line on afterwards is puzzling.
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  #36  
Old 01-12-2019, 05:43 AM
MED MED is offline
 
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After speaking with the Van's tech line yesterday, I ordered pro seal remover (polygone gel) and more pro seal. I plan to remove the excess material from my QB fuselage and reinstall only enough to form a water seal.
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  #37  
Old 01-12-2019, 08:12 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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Quote:
After speaking with the Van's tech line yesterday, I ordered pro seal remover (polygone gel) and more pro seal. I plan to remove the excess material from my QB fuselage and reinstall only enough to form a water seal.
I didn't have much trouble removing it with just a razor blade, took about 2 hours.
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  #38  
Old 01-27-2019, 07:36 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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Just a quick resurrection of this thread ... There were a few others that had issues with the C-01447 seal "bulging" out. This is also caused by the incorrect application of the proseal.

The way the edge is designed it will keep the C-01447 in place. The "ramp" of proseal applied by the quickbuild folks doesn't hold it in place causing it to squeeze out the front.
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  #39  
Old 01-27-2019, 02:40 PM
MED MED is offline
 
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I was able to remove the excess proseal from my QB, mostly with a razor blade, as Bill suggested. The polygone was not very effective removing the bulk of the material, I guess from age and the temperature in my workshop. I used the polygone to remove the remnants. Then, I reapplied just a tiny bead of proseal along the joint to make sure water could not infiltrate. Probably didnít need to reapply any, as there was a bit left in the seam. I only reapplied because I had already bought the proseal.
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  #40  
Old 01-27-2019, 03:52 PM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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My RV7 TU seal I put in about 6 years ago is going to have to be replaced. I dread it because I have to take the canopy off to work on it properly.

Anyway, I see the 14 has guidance for pro seal on the metal bits to help fill all the notches and gaps. I plan to learn from this thread to do that while I am at it. Not going to be easy since I have to remove a bunch of stuff from in front of the sub panel to get to that area.

A question I have is what kind of actual seal is vans providing to sit on top of the seal ledge for the 14? What is itís part number and what does it look like?

Last time I used an edge gripping McMaster Carr bulb seal and it started bulging after a while and the bulb broke free from its gripper. Looking for a better alternative.
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