What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

FLOP TUBE

its not difficult, it is messy. you will need to make a new access panel in the second bay in for the fuel sender to be moved to that bay, you will have to make a solid access panel to replace the one that the fuel sender is in now. put the trap door in the first rib in the tank, add the anti snag brace in the first bay, add the flop tube pickup in the nose rib and re-plumb the fuel system to move the fuel line. oh, and did i mention that all this has to be pro-sealed:D

piece of cake.

bob burns RV-4
N82RB
 
.02 cents worth for Stew--

This is one place that teflon doesnt work---well--. It doesnt 'flop' as well as a 701 hose, because is has a memory. We played with it several years ago with Team AeroDynamix and just couldnt get it to move without a 'bunch' of nose weight. WE even tried it with just the liner, and it was just no cooperating. Thought about making a live swivel joint to allow the movement, but put that idea asside for a while (6 years).

So 701 hose is generally used---even though it does need to be checked/changed at intervals.

Tom
 
There are plenty of RV's out there flying with flop tubes and NO inverted oil system. If you are not planning on installing an inverted oil system then don't bother with a flop tube. You will lose oil pressure before fuel starvation.
 
Sage advise

Yes after further thought I gave decided ... no flop tube ... half Raven and a Moroso oil accumulator and SliverHawke fuel injection Totally adequate for anything I want to do . Many thanks to all
 
Back
Top