I have installed my windscreen and the aluminum fairing I received from ML Skunk works. As in the door windows install, I used the same method as the Glassair Sportsman window installation method (which is the same for all my windows). We are very pleased with the results. I continued to use Silpruf for the windscreen. Lots of taping to establish clean lines where the Silpruf edges run and to protect all surfaces from contact with the Silpruf (you dont want contact with unpainted surfaces). The windscreen was lightly sanded in the area the fairing lays over it and a thin layer of Silpluf was spread over the sanded and taped area. This gives a clean black background looking forward from inside. The fairing took some extra cutting and shaping (needed a stretcher and shrinker set from HF) to achieve a clean fit along the fuselage and windscreen. I drilled the fairing and match drilled it to the fuselage with two inch spacing. There is one area on each side of the forward fuselage that required different spacing on a couple hole to acommodate the location of the sub panel and rib rivets. I dimpled the fairing for a -4 rivet; however, the final hardware will be a 4-40 countersink machine screw with a washer and lock nut. All holes are reachable, including under the panel. I drilled and carefully countersunk the fuselage, removing the minimal amount of material needed for the dimpled fairing. Enough Silpruf was used to bed and seal the fairing to the fuselage and windscreen. Clecos were used to attach and hold the fairing and to allow several days for curing. So if you interested in this method here are my thoughts.
Glassing vs Aluminum fairing - What appeals to you the builder. I think both look nice, but for us, an aluminum fairing just had a certain look we liked.
Servicing - The fairing makes it easier to replace the windscreen if a bird decides to someday fly through it. The fairing can be removed and reused.
Time - the prep work, shaping, fitting, drilling, etc, probably equals the work for preping and glassing. no free ride on this one. You still need to take the extra time shaping, drilling, setting clean tape line etc.
Post install - In a week (Silpruf needs time to cure, and up to two weeks for full strength set) We will remove the clecos and install th No.4 flush screws. I could do it tomorrow, but going out of town for a week. Before painting, I will touch up the areas were the tool marks are slightly visable with a thin float coat of filler. other then that its done. The fairing is flush on the windscreen and fuselage. You could float some filler along the fairing edge and fuselage to eliminate the .025 fairing edge, but if it ever need removal, you defeat the ability to easily remove it.
While Im away, I will learn how to post pictures. I will get some photos posted of the finished product. ML Skunk work charged 235.00 for the fairing, or you can get his video for 20 or 30 bucks and learn to make one (they include the video with the fairing). Right now Im like a rental horse heading for the barn, so I want nothing to slow me down. The fairing was worth the price IMHO. So hopfully this was informative for the Club -10 builders. Glassing or aluminum fairing, the end result is still a great plane!