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Hangar Construction?
- Thread starter N62XS
- Start date
Bill Whidden
Member
RV Hanger
I've just finished building a 10,200 s.f. hanger in Apopka florida. I saved over 40% of the complete cost by "contracting all of the subs myself". A little more of a pain in the arse but worth it. Not including the land, which we were able to actually purchase, I spent right at 225,000. This included Hydroswing doors, fully insulated and a sprinkler system that the county insisted on. This building is 70' x 145'. I got three quotes from contractors and they all came in around $45.00 per square foot to build complete, which was around $470,000. It's like getting your RV's for free.
If you have a couple of spare days a week to spend on site, a friend who is a contractor and can pull the permit for you, and are capable of building an RV, you are fully qualified to build your own building.
You can call me at 407-616-7764 and I'll give you any info I can on the different manufacturers of all the components necessary to complete.
BTW, This building was built for RV hanger space and for people to assemble their projects while rubbing elbows with other RV'ers.
Bill Whidden
RV6 Hope to fly this April
RV8 Hope to fly next April.
I've just finished building a 10,200 s.f. hanger in Apopka florida. I saved over 40% of the complete cost by "contracting all of the subs myself". A little more of a pain in the arse but worth it. Not including the land, which we were able to actually purchase, I spent right at 225,000. This included Hydroswing doors, fully insulated and a sprinkler system that the county insisted on. This building is 70' x 145'. I got three quotes from contractors and they all came in around $45.00 per square foot to build complete, which was around $470,000. It's like getting your RV's for free.
If you have a couple of spare days a week to spend on site, a friend who is a contractor and can pull the permit for you, and are capable of building an RV, you are fully qualified to build your own building.
You can call me at 407-616-7764 and I'll give you any info I can on the different manufacturers of all the components necessary to complete.
BTW, This building was built for RV hanger space and for people to assemble their projects while rubbing elbows with other RV'ers.
Bill Whidden
RV6 Hope to fly this April
RV8 Hope to fly next April.
pierre smith
Well Known Member
PM
Hi Robby,
Check your PM's.
Pierre
Hi Robby,
Check your PM's.
Pierre
MrNomad
Well Known Member
Insulated concrete foam
Before you pile blocks or, worse yet, use sticks to construct your hangar, lookup Nudura Insulated Concrete Foam systems. We looked at 6 insulated foam products and believe this one is the best. The perimeter walls will cost 10-15% more than stick but the hangar will be cool in summer and warmer in winter. And when the better half tosses your butt out and you need a place to bunk, you can put up some interior walls and make a little apt. Meanwhile the utilities are cheap and the termites have nothing to munch.
We finished the job with KC panels for the roof. Using treated OSB, KC adheres foam insulation to the 4x8 sections of OSB which drop in place over the rafters. Just make sure the engineering is correct.
Barry
Tucson
Before you pile blocks or, worse yet, use sticks to construct your hangar, lookup Nudura Insulated Concrete Foam systems. We looked at 6 insulated foam products and believe this one is the best. The perimeter walls will cost 10-15% more than stick but the hangar will be cool in summer and warmer in winter. And when the better half tosses your butt out and you need a place to bunk, you can put up some interior walls and make a little apt. Meanwhile the utilities are cheap and the termites have nothing to munch.
We finished the job with KC panels for the roof. Using treated OSB, KC adheres foam insulation to the 4x8 sections of OSB which drop in place over the rafters. Just make sure the engineering is correct.
Barry
Tucson
sportpilot
Well Known Member
metal buildings
Call Mr Jordan at Jordan Metal buildings PO box 22, Hoboken, Ga 31542 Phone (912) 458 3465. Kenneth Jordan is a specialist in Metal buildings in our south ga area. He's built dozens of buildings around locally among them 2 buildings for my brother. He is currently building a 50 X 50 hangar at the Ware County airport (kays) to house a C172 and a Piper Saratroga. He does a turn key job including insulation, custom interiorers, concrete slabs and fold up doors. My brother is happy as all get out with his 2 buildings, one of them houses his wifes Skyhawk and his Glasair II at kays. Only one problem. I don't know if he will go to Rincon or not. If you call, tell him Sonny Stokes of Hoboken reccommended him.
Ohh and BTW, if you pour a ramp slab in front of your hangar, be sure and anchor tie-down rings in the concrete.
Call Mr Jordan at Jordan Metal buildings PO box 22, Hoboken, Ga 31542 Phone (912) 458 3465. Kenneth Jordan is a specialist in Metal buildings in our south ga area. He's built dozens of buildings around locally among them 2 buildings for my brother. He is currently building a 50 X 50 hangar at the Ware County airport (kays) to house a C172 and a Piper Saratroga. He does a turn key job including insulation, custom interiorers, concrete slabs and fold up doors. My brother is happy as all get out with his 2 buildings, one of them houses his wifes Skyhawk and his Glasair II at kays. Only one problem. I don't know if he will go to Rincon or not. If you call, tell him Sonny Stokes of Hoboken reccommended him.
Ohh and BTW, if you pour a ramp slab in front of your hangar, be sure and anchor tie-down rings in the concrete.
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az_gila
Well Known Member
Size and other stuff...
Robby... if it's a "standard" steel hangar, the key number is 25 ft. for the depth.
1. Make your hangar depth an increment of 25 ft.... This is the maximum spacing for the major cross beams - which will weigh over a ton each.
Since you are effectively buying a steel hangar by weight...
...maximizing the use of these expensive beams reduces your $$/sq. ft. number.
2. Ask for flush girts on the sides, not overlap girts... this will give about a foot of extra width between the main supports.
3. The design software doesn't seem to mind any number in the width.
4. Ask the steel building guy if he can do a Horton stack door. If he doesn't know what you are talking about, he hasn't done many hangars.
http://www.hortonstackdoor.com/
5. Watch for fire codes, recent adoption of the IBC codes has made our county and city classify any large building as commercial, since the international code (why the &*% are we using building codes based in Switzerland?) has a size limit on a residential hangar. This drives all sort of sprinkler, hydrant, even foam issues....
gil in Tucson... glad I built my hangar before the IBC...
Robby... if it's a "standard" steel hangar, the key number is 25 ft. for the depth.
1. Make your hangar depth an increment of 25 ft.... This is the maximum spacing for the major cross beams - which will weigh over a ton each.
Since you are effectively buying a steel hangar by weight...
...maximizing the use of these expensive beams reduces your $$/sq. ft. number.2. Ask for flush girts on the sides, not overlap girts... this will give about a foot of extra width between the main supports.
3. The design software doesn't seem to mind any number in the width.
4. Ask the steel building guy if he can do a Horton stack door. If he doesn't know what you are talking about, he hasn't done many hangars.
http://www.hortonstackdoor.com/
5. Watch for fire codes, recent adoption of the IBC codes has made our county and city classify any large building as commercial, since the international code (why the &*% are we using building codes based in Switzerland?) has a size limit on a residential hangar. This drives all sort of sprinkler, hydrant, even foam issues....
gil in Tucson... glad I built my hangar before the IBC...
Just to add a little to what Gil said, 25' should be the MAXIMUM bay. One of my hangars has 20' bays and the new one has 25' bays. I've seen them with 30' bays...You don't want that! Also what he call "flush" is called "space saver" by my builder. This actually gave me 16" of extra clearance, 8" perlins on each side. And, yes, you do want that!
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az_gila
Well Known Member
feet...
Mel... my builders software wouldn't allow more than 25 ft... and the snow load requirements (one of the main spacing drivers) are pretty low in Tucson...
Looking at other makes of steel hangars in the airpark... I think they all use similar design software...
Incidentally, my hangar was ordered from, and designed in CA, the main weldments were done in TX, and the sheet and final packaging was done in PHX, so my trucking charge for 11 tons was only for 100 miles...
gil A
Mel said:
Mel... my builders software wouldn't allow more than 25 ft... and the snow load requirements (one of the main spacing drivers) are pretty low in Tucson...
Looking at other makes of steel hangars in the airpark... I think they all use similar design software...
Incidentally, my hangar was ordered from, and designed in CA, the main weldments were done in TX, and the sheet and final packaging was done in PHX, so my trucking charge for 11 tons was only for 100 miles...
gil A
Jim Wright
Well Known Member
Hi Robby "Hard" Knox,
We have recently completed (well 98 %) of our hangar apartment. It is a Miracle Truss 60x42X14. The back 14 feet is shop area with a partial canteilever apartment on top. We have had a good experience with this project. If you are interested in the Miracle Truss building feel free to give me a call.
Jim Wright
[email protected]
(907) 235-5506
We have recently completed (well 98 %) of our hangar apartment. It is a Miracle Truss 60x42X14. The back 14 feet is shop area with a partial canteilever apartment on top. We have had a good experience with this project. If you are interested in the Miracle Truss building feel free to give me a call.
Jim Wright
[email protected]
(907) 235-5506
Hangar Suggestions
I had a pole-barn type hangar built next to my airpark house and I'm very happy with it. 45' wide by 36' deep 12' vertical clearance -- and it was 30K (N/W South Carolina). Definitely get someone who specializes in this type construction. The doors are not a place to save money. Get a good bi-fold or maybe one of those new swing up hydraulics. I got the type that rolls to the inside on tracks and hate it. (Lots of hangar edge space and wall space I can't use and the doors tend to bang against beams and door knobs when opening and closing.
Make sure you specify expansion joints cut in the concrete with sections no larger than 12 feet or so to prevent cracking. I specified 12 foot squares and haven't had a single crack.
Get plenty of electrical service and outlets (I had 100 amps put in with three circuits to start, one for the lights, one for left half outlets, one for right.) I have enough left to add 240V later if I ever need it.
I had six two-tube 48" fluorescents put in and it's really not quite enough. About 50% more, I think, would be just about right. If I were to do it again I'd probably put almost twice as many lights and use two circuits so I could switch all on only when I'm working and really need them.
I had a pole-barn type hangar built next to my airpark house and I'm very happy with it. 45' wide by 36' deep 12' vertical clearance -- and it was 30K (N/W South Carolina). Definitely get someone who specializes in this type construction. The doors are not a place to save money. Get a good bi-fold or maybe one of those new swing up hydraulics. I got the type that rolls to the inside on tracks and hate it. (Lots of hangar edge space and wall space I can't use and the doors tend to bang against beams and door knobs when opening and closing.
Make sure you specify expansion joints cut in the concrete with sections no larger than 12 feet or so to prevent cracking. I specified 12 foot squares and haven't had a single crack.
Get plenty of electrical service and outlets (I had 100 amps put in with three circuits to start, one for the lights, one for left half outlets, one for right.) I have enough left to add 240V later if I ever need it.
I had six two-tube 48" fluorescents put in and it's really not quite enough. About 50% more, I think, would be just about right. If I were to do it again I'd probably put almost twice as many lights and use two circuits so I could switch all on only when I'm working and really need them.
Deuskid said:
You can make the hangar as deep as you want. One of mine is 60' and the other is 50'. The max 25' is bay length. This is the distance between major cross beams. If they are more than 25' apart, the roof perlins begin to twist with the weight of the roof. And in many cases they will bend because of wind loads. If the wind blows across the roof, it will cause lift just like a wing and can distort the roof if the beams are too far apart.
az_gila
Well Known Member
Another little detail
The type of panel needs to be specified... these cost a little more, but have better sealing due to the extra bit of overlap for sheet to sheet...
Also ask about a sealing angle or equivalent at the bottom and top... this will keep the critters and sand out (and snow, I'm told... ...)... it's not always standard on hangars.
This web site from the buiding supplier I used has a lot of little details explained...
http://www.metallic.com/metallic/catalog/index.htm
....good luck....
gil in Tucson
The type of panel needs to be specified... these cost a little more, but have better sealing due to the extra bit of overlap for sheet to sheet...
Also ask about a sealing angle or equivalent at the bottom and top... this will keep the critters and sand out (and snow, I'm told...
...)... it's not always standard on hangars.This web site from the buiding supplier I used has a lot of little details explained...
http://www.metallic.com/metallic/catalog/index.htm
....good luck....
gil in Tucson
photoadjuster
Member
Cool Air Door ?
<< I got the type that rolls to the inside on tracks and hate it. (Lots of hangar edge space and wall space I can't use and the doors tend to bang against beams and door knobs when opening and closing >>
Is your door made by Cool Air ?. The ones I have seen work well and are less than half price of a bi-fold.
Regards,
Mike Stephenson
<< I got the type that rolls to the inside on tracks and hate it. (Lots of hangar edge space and wall space I can't use and the doors tend to bang against beams and door knobs when opening and closing >>
Is your door made by Cool Air ?. The ones I have seen work well and are less than half price of a bi-fold.
Regards,
Mike Stephenson
rv7boy
Forum Peruser
Hangar with Apartment...
I would love to hear comments from anyone who has experience owning, living in, or any experience whatever with, a hangar with an apartment (or adequate living space either downstairs or upstairs).
Are there any plans available for purchase? Or are most custom designed? Any do's and don'ts?
I'm hoping to find some acreage out in the country suitable for a grass strip and a live-in hangar. BION, my wife is willing as long as we are away from the city!
Don
I would love to hear comments from anyone who has experience owning, living in, or any experience whatever with, a hangar with an apartment (or adequate living space either downstairs or upstairs).
Are there any plans available for purchase? Or are most custom designed? Any do's and don'ts?
I'm hoping to find some acreage out in the country suitable for a grass strip and a live-in hangar. BION, my wife is willing as long as we are away from the city!
Don
sportpilot
Well Known Member
pictures
Pictures of steel hangars at the KAYS airport constructed by Jordan Metal buildings of Hoboken, Ga.
Pictures of Hangars constructed by Kenneth Jordan at KAYS
Pictures of steel hangars at the KAYS airport constructed by Jordan Metal buildings of Hoboken, Ga.
Pictures of Hangars constructed by Kenneth Jordan at KAYS
Yes it is a Coolman door. It is 3/4 cost of bi-fold, and it's one of those things that gets more irritating as you deal with it day after day. Loss of the use of all that space is significant and some days you just don't feel like pushing and grunting. Having used both extensively, I think it's well worth the money to get the electric bifold; wish I had.
- Brett
- Brett
photoadjuster said:
I finished a 50'w x 75' deep metal hangar this past year. The kit came from Impact buildings in TX. There were 2 other Impact buildings at my field, of which one was under construction (very helpful). What Gil and Mel said about the wall girts (purlins) I concur with. It was especially nice in running conduit up under the girt and bringing out duplex outlets where needed. One thing that you might want to consider is in dropping lots of conduit under the slab and bringing it up at various places. I placed air, water and electrical conduit under my slab and it sure has made life easier. What I'm not using is capped off. Some of the runs may never be used, but it already came in handy. Good luck
Interested in constructing hangar w/apartment
Donald
I would love to hear comments from anyone who has experience...a hangar with an apartment
Donald, I see no one replied to your request. Did you end up finding useful information on constructing a hangar with an apartment?
I'm interested in hangar/apartment combinations as well. Anyone out there have recommended buildings or are most apartment hangars custom built?
Thanks in advance,
Stan
Donald
I would love to hear comments from anyone who has experience...a hangar with an apartment
Donald, I see no one replied to your request. Did you end up finding useful information on constructing a hangar with an apartment?
I'm interested in hangar/apartment combinations as well. Anyone out there have recommended buildings or are most apartment hangars custom built?
Thanks in advance,
Stan
GrayHawk
Well Known Member
I've held off responding because I have little experience in what you are seeking; but I hope to have an apartment in a hangar in the next year or so.designerX said:
My guess is that most are custom designs (no two alike). In earlier research, I did find one place that seemed to have built some condo hangar/apartments. That was Heavens Landing in GA. Here is a photo:
You might also try http://www.livingwithyourplane.com/ to get some idas.
In my case, the hangar is 60x60x20, 20' bays. So I had a steel framed loft built across the back 20' with 10' clearance beneath. This gives roughly 20x60' for an apartment. I am doing my own design in Autocad. There are two sets of double doors centered on the back wall, Lower doors will open onto patio next to runway. Upper ones open onto a steel framed 7x20 balcony.
kevinsky18
Well Known Member
That is a very cool condo / hanger design. I wonder what sort of capital would be needed to build something like that.
