section / fuse various
Paul, some ideas:
Section 23- Trial fitting/ cleco longerons-
I think it is a good idea to get the F1202B panel base from section 29 and see how it fits in front of the L & R F1234. Otherwise, you might have one longeron splayed out a bit and one in and the firewall will still fit just fine. But when you get to section 29 the edges of F1202B won't line up perfectly with the longerons.
Also, note that they have you rivet the F-1202 gussets on. Don't match drill to the longeron!
I think 23-06 would be a good place to tell us to put masking tape on the holes we just match drilled, I thought I was building a boat and started riveting them.
Pg 24-02- trial fit the clecoed roll bar assembly, measure the width, then clamp it down and hold that width while riveting. (My idea, maybe bad)
Page 25-05
I think it is probably better to paint the back section with the turtle deck skins off, that's how the factory did it.
I had problems with overspray, maybe drape something over the baggage compartment and seat area while painting the roll bar and it's brace. Then drape the seat area while painting the baggage area, etc.
I think they should have us ream the skins from #30 to #27 to fit a 6-32 screw.
When you are putting the back window in, using masons twine with a big knot passed first through the window then the turtledeck skin, makes it easy to suck it flush to cleco. I tried duct tape, it broke.
On Page 27-04 the revision has us drill the systems block studs so they fit flat on the floor. Otherwise, the flaperon mixer scrapes the fuel line! Its a lot better doing it before installing the sides.
On section 29-02, it seems like a good idea to put the appropriate sealant in the bend relief grooves and wherever light leaks while it is lying flat on the table, before you install the F-1201R and lose easy access.
Jerry G's pictures from Sun' n fun are priceless, especially under the panel. I hope we don' t have to pull the fuel tank to remove the back bulkhead to do an annual.
John
