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Fuel tanks

togaflyer

Well Known Member
Fuel tanks in quick build wings. Do they need to be removed from the wings for inspection or for access in order to complete the work on the wings.

What say you?...
 
No - but recommend you verify all fuel tank attach bracket bolts are in and snug. If you do take it off, prime the outside of the tank (bottom baffle and both ends).

Carl
 
No - but recommend you verify all fuel tank attach bracket bolts are in and snug. If you do take it off, prime the outside of the tank (bottom baffle and both ends).

Carl

+1. Mine came with bolts that were too long - and "fixed" by extra washers under each bolt head (!). I pulled them and put in the proper ones.
 
You will need to remove the tanks to fill the holes in the leading edge of each wing that are meant to be a cutting guide for the stall warning switch assembly (see page 17-3, step 12).

It wasn't too big a task. Took me about 3 hours for the first wing to remove, rivet, and reinstall the tank. The second one took just 2 hours.
 
Suggestion before painting

When painting the tanks on the wing, remove all the perimeter attach screws. Leave just a few screws set high to make sure tank doesn't slide off then paint wing. Take a bunch of #8 tank screws, stick them in holes punched in card board, then prep and spray paint the heads.

If you ever have need to to remove the tank to repair leaks, you will be able to remove and reuse the painted screws with out damaging the paint on the tank.

If you are using stainless screws, disregard this suggestion.

Steve
 
When painting the tanks on the wing, remove all the perimeter attach screws. Leave just a few screws set high to make sure tank doesn't slide off then paint wing. Take a bunch of #8 tank screws, stick them in holes punched in card board, then prep and spray paint the heads.

If you ever have need to to remove the tank to repair leaks, you will be able to remove and reuse the painted screws with out damaging the paint on the tank.

If you are using stainless screws, disregard this suggestion.

Steve

I disagree. If you do this you will have paint under each screw and often this paint will break when you tighten the screws, usually taking with it some of the paint around the screws. Put all of the screws in and use a paint cutter to remove if-when you need to take the tank off. Getting a bunch of screws painted as extras is a good idea.
 
For a few hours work I might as well pull them just for inspection sake. Thanks. Now back to more cowling trimming.
 
I ended up removing mine, for a few reasons:
- The bolts aren't torqued properly as the QB comes (the kit comes with a big warning on this, though I could just have torqued them without removing - read that)
- The tank skin edges needed a little bit of trimming with a file to not overlap - they originally looked like this: https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FxeKWfgG...3NABvZ1rVjwCKgB/s1600/IMG_20161129_013118.jpg
- I wanted to install a fuel return line, had to install the fuel sender and different (retrofit) fuel caps, which was all much easier with the tanks alone on the bench
- Without removing it, you can't easily leak-test the rear of the tank (you can do the pressure test and see if it leaks, but it does, you'll need to figure out where)

Other reasons that didn't apply to me:
- If you want to install the included stall warning tab, it's much easier to get access without the tanks
- Some people install leading-edge landing lights, also much easier without the tanks

That said, removing and reinstalling the tanks is quite easy, though a tad time-consuming (a ~hundred screws and ~20 bolts)
 
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