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  #111  
Old Yesterday, 06:16 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petehowell View Post
Steve,

Thanks for the step by step on this - great job. I'll be coming back here when I need to do mine.

Enjoy the show!!
Great Idea Pete - I pulled that post to a single, then went to print-save-as-pdf and saved it in my maintenance folder. Great How-To! Thanks Steve. I on the final push for the airport next week, See you guys next year!! Maybe SnF.
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  #112  
Old Yesterday, 06:44 AM
Steve Melton's Avatar
Steve Melton Steve Melton is online now
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 1,185
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credit goes to Sam Marlow at HAO for teaching me how to do this repair. teaching a man how to fish is more important than giving him a fish. thanks Sam and get well soon.
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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 500+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.

Last edited by Steve Melton : Yesterday at 06:53 AM.
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  #113  
Old Yesterday, 10:03 AM
tim2542 tim2542 is online now
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Redding,Ca
Posts: 457
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You don't nessesarily need to oil the crank seal surface if you're afraid of contaminating the seal to case bond, just wipe a thin coat of grease on the id of the seal or three or four very little dabs distributed will do. But you really need a little lube of some kind on the dry rubber or crank or it will burn before the oil can work its way in and do its thing. A completely dry seal surface is a recipe for failure here.
Tim Andres
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  #114  
Old Yesterday, 11:31 AM
Steve Melton's Avatar
Steve Melton Steve Melton is online now
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 1,185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim2542 View Post
You don't nessesarily need to oil the crank seal surface if you're afraid of contaminating the seal to case bond, just wipe a thin coat of grease on the id of the seal or three or four very little dabs distributed will do. But you really need a little lube of some kind on the dry rubber or crank or it will burn before the oil can work its way in and do its thing. A completely dry seal surface is a recipe for failure here.
Tim Andres
after adhesive cure I did oil the outside of the seal at the shaft with engine oil. I'm not sure how much good that will do since the airflow is in the opposite direction.
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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 500+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.
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