Plastic Brake Lines - Need Experienced Advice

OK, Builders...here's a question for you: In assembling the brass terminal fittings to the plastic brake lines, is it an acceptable option to use a heat gun (carefully) to soften the plastic slightly instead of a pan of boiling water? Ref: 27-04.
I do not have the luxury of building at home, and am not at all keen on the idea of having to obtain and use a camp stove or the like in the hangar. Has anyone else done it differently and successfully?

You can use a heat gun if you are VERY careful not to over heat.
All you need to do is soften them slightly. As a matter of fact, try it first without heat. You may not need it.

And before all the nay-sayers check in, I've been flying my -6 with the plastics lines for over 21 years with no problems.

In RVator 2-2009 page 11 there is an article about the brake lines.
Instead of using boiled water you can use a #29 drill bit to "shave" the brake tubing.
I used a 3,5mm drill bit instead of the #29 drill. For some inserts I still had to use the boiling water method but it worked quite well.

IN THE SHOP
PLASTIC BRAKE LINES
KEN SCOTT
Van’s RV-12

– a workable method found, then improved
A few grumbles surfaced lately when builders tried to install fittings on the plastic tubing used to connect the master cylinders on dual brake sys- tems. These fittings rely on a compression sleeve around the outside and a small tubular insert stuffed into the end of the tube. The difficulty has been getting the insert into the tube, even when the plastic tube is softened in boiling water.
I mentioned this to Van during an “RV-12 build- ers conversation” the other day, and he told me how he’d done it: after heating the tube in boiling water he’d tapped the inserts in with a nail and a hammer. Van knows a thing or two about building airplanes, so I took his method home, adapted it a bit and found it worked perfectly. I had all the brake lines for my RV-12 prepared in about fifteen minutes.
Now, working on small soft plastic parts with a hammer just offends some people’s engineering sensibilities. When Ken Krueger heard this, he looked into the problem. What he found is the plastic tubing, as manufactured, varies signifi- cantly in wall thickness. Sometimes the inserts will push in with your thumb, sometimes they will actually be loose, and sometimes they fit so tightly it seems impossible to get them in. Ken’s method was simple and direct: drill the last 1⁄2” or so of the tubing with a #29 twist drill. If it pulls shavings out, the finished wall will be no thinner than the thinner walls resulting from production variation. If it doesn’t...well, there you are. In either case, the insert will insert -- no boiling water necessary.
The building plans/manual will be revised to include the “drill bit solution”. You can put shop coffee pot back to work making coffee.

Gotta love this site!

Those replies are exactly what I needed. Gracias to both you fine gents. The best 35 minutes I've spent today.

Mel---no flame war here---Yours were obviously installed correctly.
Tom

No drilling

This worked fine and no drilling.

Hot water this tool and drop of brake fluid.



See

http://www.joesrv12.com/Builder Log/bl_32_02.htm

Mel,

I want you to know that I have been talking with Tom about fuel and brake lines for my 9A and he specifically mentioned you and your 6 as having the plastic brake lines and that they worked great for you and many others for years. I appreciate him not trying to up-sell me anything and pointing out how his services are in no way required.

I am having Tom make brake lines for me from the inside of the firewall, through the cab, and down the gear legs. For me, that is how I am most comfortable.

Im going for the full fuel lines too. I have made 1000's of flares in copper, but a leaky dishwasher is different than a leaky fuel line.

I also wanted to say how much I appreciate your free advice and willingness to offer help to those of us who are learning as we go. Thanks.