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alternative to ProSeal for sealing Step?

dbhill916

dbhill916

Well Known Member
Hi guys,

I'm on page 21-17 and note that The Book calls out sealing the entry steps with ProSeal. I have ordered a prebuilt tank, so I'm not expecting that I will need the ProSeal for anything else. (Correct me if I'm wrong!) Is there an alternative to using ProSeal for the step? I hate to spend $85 (Aircraft Spruce) for just this one application.

Thanks in advance,
-dbh
 
3M 08531 seam sealer from auto parts store or 08300 seam sealer works well and can be painted over.
 
Vans has it a lot cheaper

Vans sells small kits as little as one ounce for about $9.00 or a 3 1/2 ounce for about about $18.00. Pro-seal or FlameMaster as they now call it not only seals but has unbelievable bonding power. Also you can find smaller cans of it on Ebay but it's usually near the end of it's advertised shelve life but still works well past the expiration date.
 
dbhill916 said:
Hi guys,

I'm on page 21-17 and note that The Book calls out sealing the entry steps with ProSeal. I have ordered a prebuilt tank, so I'm not expecting that I will need the ProSeal for anything else. (Correct me if I'm wrong!) Is there an alternative to using ProSeal for the step? I hate to spend $85 (Aircraft Spruce) for just this one application.

Thanks in advance,
-dbh
Click to expand...

Pro-seal is called for in the instructions for sealing around the firewall when you get to that point.

Jim
 
NYTOM said:
Vans sells small kits as little as one ounce for about $9.00 or a 3 1/2 ounce for about about $18.00. Pro-seal or FlameMaster as they now call it not only seals but has unbelievable bonding power. Also you can find smaller cans of it on Ebay but it's usually near the end of it's advertised shelve life but still works well past the expiration date.
Click to expand...

I bought a couple of these, just to have and test with. I used one for sealing the lower shelf fitting against the firewall (page 22-03 Step 4) as well as the filling in the top of the steps. I had plenty left over but nothing at that point to use it on.

I noticed some pics that were posted where someone went ahead and sealed the inside around the firewall. I wish I would have thought about that. I may have gotten into the second one with that.

Bob
 
bhassel said:
I noticed some pics that were posted where someone went ahead and sealed the inside around the firewall. I wish I would have thought about that. I may have gotten into the second one with that.
Click to expand...

I think they did so, because the construction manual tells you to.
 
Has anyone tried this one part polysulphide tank sealer now sold by Aircraft Spruce?

It seems like it might do the job as long as you can wait (a week?) for a full cure -

09-02544.jpg
 
rvbuilder2002 said:
I think they did so, because the construction manual tells you to.
Click to expand...

Opps! It's never too late. I wonder how I missed that one! :eek:

I was planning on doing it later anyway, might as well do it now. I wondered what I was going to work on tomorrow while waiting on that 3rd skin...

Thanks!

Bob
 
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Never hurts to keep one of the small $9 pro-seal kits in the fridge for that next fuel tank service bulletin....arrrghhh. Wing tanks would have been a nice standard design with an option for the current set-up. Though I'm sure they exist, I personally don't know of anyone that removes their wings on a regular basis.
 
Gill,

That one part sealer looks like an option for repairs or EAB. Your note made it sound like your Pro Seal cured faster than a week. I was surprised that it took my Pro Seal about a week to cure. My ambient temperature was about 70F (winter in AZ!)

Two years and no leaks! :)

Rich
 
bhassel said:
Opps! It's never too late. I wonder how I missed that one! :eek:

I was planning on doing it later anyway, might as well do it now. I wondered what I was going to work on tomorrow while waiting on that 3rd skin...

Thanks!

Bob
Click to expand...

Ah there it is - it hasn't come to pass yet in the plans...later Obi-wan...later...

Bob
 
I have used this sealant, takes quite a few days to cure, strong smell, prefer pro-seal if possible. Using "invisible gloves", or any other hand protection is a good idea.
 
I was forewarned on the Proseal goo. Just layout a plastic sheet on your table and change gloves frequently. I used most of a box of nitrile gloves from Harbor Freight.
 
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