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RV-12 2nd Owner Questions

TomVal

TomVal

Well Known Member
Oil filter: What do you use to cut open the filter for contaminant inspection. Will my wife’s electric can opener work?:D

External Boarding Steps: There is an air gap where the leg of the step passes through the fuselage. Shouldn’t there be a seal or gasket closing up that area?

APRS: What has been your antenna location solution. I am also evaluating ADS-B options at this time. I presently have four antennas (xponder, 2 comms, 1 nav), and I am dreading the thought of having to poke more holes in the fuselage.

Wing Hard Points for Jacking: What are folks using? It would be nice if someone like Anti Splat Aero would manufacture a quality hard point.

Regards,
 
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DAGO said:
Wing Hard Points for Jacking: What are folks using? It would be nice if someone like Anti Splat Aero would manufacture a quality hard point.
Click to expand...
To be honest, the two sawhorse method detailed in the maintenance manual has proven to be so easy that I'm tempted to sell my wing jack.
 
Dgamble said:
To be honest, the two sawhorse method detailed in the maintenance manual has proven to be so easy that I'm tempted to sell my wing jack.
Click to expand...

If the purpose was just to change a tire, would that imply that I would have to remove the wings to maintain lateral stability using the sawhorse method of support?
 
Jacking the 12

DAGO said:
If the purpose was just to change a tire, would that imply that I would have to remove the wings to maintain lateral stability using the sawhorse method of support?
Click to expand...

The sawhorse method in the MM works really easy, and quick but is for when the wings are off the plane. I have not tried it with the wings on, but there would be more weight behind the CG to lift to get it on the back horse.

I also have a Bogert ADJ-FPP jack pad that fits the RV-12 gear leg and works well to raise one tire. You have to cut the tie wrap on the brake line to slip the pad on the leg, no big deal.
CTT_3178-M.jpg


Tony
 
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I have the same jack Pad as Tony,

And it worksd very well but it does tend to tilt as the weight comes off the tire.

Wayne 120241/143WM
 
Thanks everyone for the input. Good feedback on the use of sawhorses and jacking equipment. Purchased an oil filter cutter (thanks JB).

Back to changing a tire or tube. What what you use to jack the aircraft when away from home base? I saw how Rosie changed a tire in the Bahama's...but I could not afford his support system to follow me along.:D Still think you would need a pair of wing jack hard points in your travel tool kit.

Also, any comments about the air gap between the leg of the boarding step and the fuselage? Am I missing a seal?

APRS antenna location: So far no feedback. I plan to use the antenna (portable with magnetic base) that came with the tracker and see how well it works.

Arriving SC tomorrow so hopefully I'll have the -12 flying again soon.

Regards,
 
More Questions...

My first condition inspection is due in April. I am beginning to narrow down the mods that I would like to incorporate. I would appreciate your input.

1. I am interested in the baggage compartment aft bulkhead mod. However, my question is, with the fuel tank in place, how well exposed are the components under the floor for access, visual inspection, and lubrication?

2. How difficult would it be to install the autopilot roll servo in a completed aircraft? I?m not very flexible anymore.

3. Interested in installing the canopy lock. I forgot who on this website is manufacturing a lock assembly for the -12, but I will purchase one when available.

4. Likewise, when the anti-splat nose job is available for the -12 I will purchase one.

5. Interested in doing the anti-splat wheel bearing mod.

6. Wrt the fuel tank. In lieu of #1, would it be possible to attach a flexible fuel line and a install a fuel line quick disconnect between the tank outlet and the boost pump??? (I don?t know if there is such a thing as a quick disconnect for a fuel system)

Regards,
 
I put my APRS antenna on the bottom, back close to the unit. The magnetic mount would probably not work very well, nothing to stick it to either.
I have ran out of bottom antenna space, so had to mount my Nav antenna on top of the fuselage, seems to look alright there.
2uegy1l.jpg
[/IMG]
 
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Eye hazard!!

DonFromTX said:
I put my APRS antenna on the bottom, back close to the unit. The magnetic mount would probably not work very well, nothing to stick it to either.
I have ran out of bottom antenna space, so had to mount my Nav antenna on top of the fuselage, seems to look alright there.
2uegy1l.jpg
[/IMG]
Click to expand...

Don, your NAV antenna should work fine on top of the fuse, but man....I hope some kid doesn't poke an eye out with that thing......

(Could also be very hazardous to the owner doing maintenance)

There is a good safety reason why this type of antenna is usually under the tail or on top of the vertical stab.
 
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DonFromTX said:
I put my APRS antenna on the bottom, back close to the unit. The magnetic mount would probably not work very well, nothing to stick it to either.
I have ran out of bottom antenna space, so had to mount my Nav antenna on top of the fuselage, seems to look alright there.
2uegy1l.jpg
[/IMG]
Click to expand...

Thanks Don for the input. Although I have my call sign and tracker, I've put APRS on the back burner. My -12 is antenna rich with 3 on the belly and one nav antenna on the top of the vertical stab. If I have to add another antenna on the belly it will be for ADS-B.

My new list of questions are listed on post #14.
 
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You think? I am well aware of that hazard, see what I have done while building. I contemplated it on the vert stab, where I would actually prefer it, but doing the wiring and mounting created lots more problems, and doubles the length of the antenna run. Meanwhile,
i2nksp.jpg
[/IMG]

Sam Buchanan said:
Don, your NAV antenna should work fine on top of the fuse, but man....I hope some kid doesn't poke an eye out with that thing......

(Could also be very hazardous to the owner doing maintenance)

There is a good safety reason why this type of antenna is usually under the tail or on top of the vertical stab.
Click to expand...
 
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TomVal said:
4. Likewise, when the anti-splat nose job is available for the -12 I will purchase one.

5. Interested in doing the anti-splat wheel bearing mod.
Click to expand...

Tom,
A little more education regarding details of your RV-12 is needed...

4. The nose gear design on an RV-12 is nothing like the nose gear on the other "A" models. People have already (unfortunately) crashed RV-12's with proof of a totally different failure mode.

5. The RV-12 uses a totally different nose wheel not used on any of the other RV's.... it already has sealed bearings.
 
Sam Buchanan said:
Don, your NAV antenna should work fine on top of the fuse,
Click to expand...

Actually I am not too sure about that...
Not saying it wont work at all, but considering that VOR signals are horizontally polarized (hence the horizontal ant.) and they are being received from below, that location will have sign blanking of the ant.
Usually if they cant be put on top of the vertical, they are mounted on the bottom of the fuse near the very back where the tail cone is narrow (and it is protected by the horizontal above it, so that people are less likely to run into it).
 
Your comments made reception my first concern too, but all the experts I could put inquiries to maintained that it would work just fine there.
I still have not ruled out putting one of my "non eye poking" antennas on the top and moving it to the belly, with the com antenna, transponder antenna, APRS antenna and ADSB antenna on the bottom, I ran out of space there.
Anyone who knows more about antennas than me (which should include most anyone), please feel free to comment. I am still trying to figure out why I had to spend $300 for a nav antenna, but my Sportys SP400 receives all the same signals just fine on a little bitty rubber ducky antenna, INSIDE the aircraft!.
 
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Put the Skyview ADSB box behind the bulkhead. The antenna goes on the bottom of the fuselage back there in the tailcone about 3 feet aft of the bulkhead. There are other options, search this thread for ADSB. Read the modifications sticky thread. You split BOTH the rear bulkhead cover AND the bottom aftmost removable floor plate. You can do any needed inspection of the parts underneath of that aftmost plate (the piece that will remain still covered by the tank) with a mirror, no problem. There is no supplied seal for the steps. Haven't seen someone come up with one but peel/stick material from Home Depot would work.

If the original builder did not add the servos, the fuselage kit still came with optional pieces to premount the brackets. That took a bit of extra work that was optional. It would be more difficult if that was skipped but not impossible, but also kinda cramped and unpleasant...

The mod for Locking the canopy is very easy, see the mods thread.

A fuel tank quick disconnect would involve totally redoing the 2 lines out the bottom of the tank - unpleasant. What you DO want to put on the tank when you take it out for hopefully the last time is the anti-rotation device on the bottom connector. That can be done without opening the tank or adding rivets with some good sealant. Do a search for that. You can hand-make the piece or buy the Vans new piece and mount without using rivets. Avoid opening up the tank!
 
rvbuilder2002 said:
Tom,
A little more education regarding details of your RV-12 is needed...

4. The nose gear design on an RV-12 is nothing like the nose gear on the other "A" models. People have already (unfortunately) crashed RV-12's with proof of a totally different failure mode.

5. The RV-12 uses a totally different nose wheel not used on any of the other RV's.... it already has sealed bearings.
Click to expand...

I should have been more clear:

I know the Anti-Splat Nose Job is on Allan's list but has not been designed as of yet.

Wrt to the wheel bearings, I should have stated having the main wheel bearings modified.

Yikes?I need to do some research?I was not aware that the nose gear failure mode in the -12 was different from the "A" models.
 
Bill_H said:
Put the Skyview ADSB box behind the bulkhead. The antenna goes on the bottom of the fuselage back there in the tailcone about 3 feet aft of the bulkhead. There are other options, search this thread for ADSB. Read the modifications sticky thread. You split BOTH the rear bulkhead cover AND the bottom aftmost removable floor plate. You can do any needed inspection of the parts underneath of that aftmost plate (the piece that will remain still covered by the tank) with a mirror, no problem. There is no supplied seal for the steps. Haven't seen someone come up with one but peel/stick material from Home Depot would work.

If the original builder did not add the servos, the fuselage kit still came with optional pieces to premount the brackets. That took a bit of extra work that was optional. It would be more difficult if that was skipped but not impossible, but also kinda cramped and unpleasant...

The mod for Locking the canopy is very easy, see the mods thread.

A fuel tank quick disconnect would involve totally redoing the 2 lines out the bottom of the tank - unpleasant. What you DO want to put on the tank when you take it out for hopefully the last time is the anti-rotation device on the bottom connector. That can be done without opening the tank or adding rivets with some good sealant. Do a search for that. You can hand-make the piece or buy the Vans new piece and mount without using rivets. Avoid opening up the tank!
Click to expand...

Thanks Bill.

I will then plan to modify the aft bulkhead cover and floor.

Wrt the servos…the system was pre-wired for the servos and I think the brackets were installed. I haven't opened the floor panels yet to confirm. My EFIS system is GRT so I will be installing their servos.

I don't know if the fuel tank anti-rotation device was installed. If not, I will do the mod.

Regards,
 
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rvbuilder2002 said:
Actually I am not too sure about that...
Not saying it wont work at all, but considering that VOR signals are horizontally polarized (hence the horizontal ant.) and they are being received from below, that location will have sign blanking of the ant.
Usually if they cant be put on top of the vertical, they are mounted on the bottom of the fuse near the very back where the tail cone is narrow (and it is protected by the horizontal above it, so that people are less likely to run into it).
Click to expand...

I mounted my vor/loc/gs ant on the fiber glass tail fairing. I fabricated a doubler and grounded the ant. to the airframe with some braid. I had to use a 90 degree bnc adapter to keep the coax away from the trim system. It is completely under the stabilator. Skunkworks mounted his vor/loc/gs antenna in the baggage compartment just under the large brace that connects the roll bar to the turtle deck and it works fine. And yes, it points forward.:cool:
 
Any chance I could get a photo of that installation?

Dave12 said:
I mounted my vor/loc/gs ant on the fiber glass tail fairing. I fabricated a doubler and grounded the ant. to the airframe with some braid. I had to use a 90 degree bnc adapter to keep the coax away from the trim system. It is completely under the stabilator. Skunkworks mounted his vor/loc/gs antenna in the baggage compartment just under the large brace that connects the roll bar to the turtle deck and it works fine. And yes, it points forward.:cool:
Click to expand...
 
Dave12 said:
I mounted my vor/loc/gs ant on the fiber glass tail fairing. I fabricated a doubler and grounded the ant. to the airframe with some braid. I had to use a 90 degree bnc adapter to keep the coax away from the trim system. It is completely under the stabilator. Skunkworks mounted his vor/loc/gs antenna in the baggage compartment just under the large brace that connects the roll bar to the turtle deck and it works fine. And yes, it points forward.:cool:
Click to expand...

Although I had nothing to do with the install, IMHO, this is the best location for the install:
5y2e.jpg
 
Hey I really like that too! Never thought of burying it inside the vert stab before, had only considered mounting it on TOP of the vert fiberglass.. Any chance you could get a closer up photo?

TomVal said:
Although I had nothing to do with the install, IMHO, this is the best location for the install:
5y2e.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Dave12 said:
I mounted my vor/loc/gs ant on the fiber glass tail fairing. I fabricated a doubler and grounded the ant. to the airframe with some braid. I had to use a 90 degree bnc adapter to keep the coax away from the trim system. It is completely under the stabilator. Skunkworks mounted his vor/loc/gs antenna in the baggage compartment just under the large brace that connects the roll bar to the turtle deck and it works fine. And yes, it points forward.:cool:
Click to expand...

Here are pics of Dave12's installation.

j3nUf5AH


y18ajrmX


Will have to get some pics of our install that we are experimenting with in the baggage compartment.
 
Here is how I mounted my VOR antenna on the -12 VS. The elements sit about 1/4" above the aluminum skins. Cut two slots in the fiberglass cap to match the antenna element locations. Works for forward or aft pointing antenna, but decide before you cut the slots in the fiberglass cap. I started out pointing forward and changed to pointing aft. The string is to pull the tail light power cable, I installed snap bushings for the VOR and power cables during construction of the VS.

2ilnh92.jpg

2mg4gzk.jpg


John Salak
RV-12 #120116
 
Mark (skunkworks) and I readily agree that the best spot is on the v-stab. Our 12's are already completed, painted and flying which made us decide to do something different. If I were still building, no doubt it would be on the v-stab. Just have to have that G/S. Nice job guys.:cool:
 
Beautiful job, this settles it, mine is going to be moved up there as well. Thanks for doing all the engineering and sharing it with me. Only way to fly. All I have to do is mount it upside down so the BNC connector will be simple. (I guess my glideslope will be displayed in reverse then as well :)

12vaitor said:
Here is how I mounted my VOR antenna on the -12 VS. The elements sit about 1/4" above the aluminum skins. Cut two slots in the fiberglass cap to match the antenna element locations. Works for forward or aft pointing antenna, but decide before you cut the slots in the fiberglass cap. I started out pointing forward and changed to pointing aft. The string is to pull the tail light power cable, I installed snap bushings for the VOR and power cables during construction of the VS.

2ilnh92.jpg

2mg4gzk.jpg


John Salak
RV-12 #120116
Click to expand...
 
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Yeah, you got me worrying about that even more, so I decided to change it while it was easy to do. How do you like THIS location? Got to be pretty tall to poke your eye into it now!
20jjxup.jpg
[/IMG]
Sam Buchanan said:
Don, your NAV antenna should work fine on top of the fuse, but man....I hope some kid doesn't poke an eye out with that thing......

(Could also be very hazardous to the owner doing maintenance)

There is a good safety reason why this type of antenna is usually under the tail or on top of the vertical stab.
Click to expand...
 
Autopilot Servo Control Arm Rod End Bearing Question

I have been in the process of installing GRT autopilot servos. l was surprised to see that both pushrod control arm rod end bearings had right-hand threads. I looked at the Dynon A/P install and it appears those rod end bearings were also right-hand. This doesn't sound correct to me. Shouldn't one rod end bearing be right-hand and the other end have left-hand threads?

What am I missing?

Regards,
 
TomVal said:
I have been in the process of installing GRT autopilot servos. l was surprised to see that both pushrod control arm rod end bearings had right-hand threads. I looked at the Dynon A/P install and it appears those rod end bearings were also right-hand. This doesn't sound correct to me. Shouldn't one rod end bearing be right-hand and the other end have left-hand threads?

What am I missing?

Regards,
Click to expand...

That is usually only done in situations where the length needs to be adjusted while the control system part is in place. A typical case is on a turn buckle for tensioning a control system cable.
 
rvbuilder2002 said:
That is usually only done in situations where the length needs to be adjusted while the control system part is in place. A typical case is on a turn buckle for tensioning a control system cable.
Click to expand...

Scott,

Thanks for the explanation, although, at this point of the A/P servo install, I think I will modify the pushrod control arms to left and right threads.

Regards,
 
TomVal said:
Scott,

Thanks for the explanation, although, at this point of the A/P servo install, I think I will modify the pushrod control arms to left and right threads.

Regards,
Click to expand...

Tom,
Since you are obviously building E-AB you can change anything you want, but I am curious what benefit you think you gain by reversing the threads on one end?
 
rvbuilder2002 said:
Tom,
Since you are obviously building E-AB you can change anything you want, but I am curious what benefit you think you gain by reversing the threads on one end?
Click to expand...

Scott,

Thanks for forcing me to think this through. I only see one small advantage that is helpful during the install and that is during the initial rigging adjustment. It is not worth reversing the threads for this. I will stick with the righthand threads.


Regards,
 
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