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Maintaining Dynon Oil temp sensor torque

alpinelakespilot2000

Well Known Member
When using a crush washer on a dyonn oil temp probe, I am under the understanding that it's contact + 135 degrees for torque. However, since this is still relatively loose, what maintains the torque needed to keep the seal? I've had long term leaking here and there seems no way to safety it to keep it at that torque.

Thanks
 
Safety wire

Mine (GRT) is drilled for safety wire. But I fixed a pesky leak there by replacing the crush washer with an aluminum washer, and a bit more torque.
You may find the sendor has a machined bevel that will allow you to use an O ring instead of the crush washer.
Tim Andres
 
My Dynon sensor isn't drilled. Maybe I can drill it.

Does anyone know why crush washers need to be used when both surfaces, of the sensor and the case are smooth? There are no imperfections that the crushable washer should need to fill. The same is true of the crush washer at the back of the sump. I've always wondered why a solid washer is not acceptable here as it would be on a car. Just curious if anyone knows the answer.
 
Oring plus crush

I put an oring of 1/16 cross section to both keep the crush ring centered and for an extra seal. Works well. It seems like the undercut on the Dynon sensor noted earlier in the chain allows the crush ring to not center when torquing. I used silicon as I had it available to me, not sure what the Parker size number was, but it sat inside the crush ring nicely and seems to hit the chamfer. YMMV. Rick
 
I just did a more thorough archives search and found that Dynon recommends putting a hose clamp around the flats of the sender and then safety wiring that.
 
Earls Washer

Trying to find info on Torque for Earls washers. Anyone have that? Seems like a good alternative to the AN900 non-centering leaky copper crush washers...

Thanks!
 
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