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  #111  
Old 07-26-2017, 06:16 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petehowell View Post
Steve,

Thanks for the step by step on this - great job. I'll be coming back here when I need to do mine.

Enjoy the show!!
Great Idea Pete - I pulled that post to a single, then went to print-save-as-pdf and saved it in my maintenance folder. Great How-To! Thanks Steve. I on the final push for the airport next week, See you guys next year!! Maybe SnF.
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  #112  
Old 07-26-2017, 06:44 AM
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Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
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credit goes to Sam Marlow at HAO for teaching me how to do this repair. teaching a man how to fish is more important than giving him a fish. thanks Sam and get well soon.
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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 600+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.

Last edited by Steve Melton : 07-26-2017 at 06:53 AM.
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  #113  
Old 07-26-2017, 10:03 AM
tim2542 tim2542 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Redding,Ca
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You don't nessesarily need to oil the crank seal surface if you're afraid of contaminating the seal to case bond, just wipe a thin coat of grease on the id of the seal or three or four very little dabs distributed will do. But you really need a little lube of some kind on the dry rubber or crank or it will burn before the oil can work its way in and do its thing. A completely dry seal surface is a recipe for failure here.
Tim Andres
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  #114  
Old 07-26-2017, 11:31 AM
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Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim2542 View Post
You don't nessesarily need to oil the crank seal surface if you're afraid of contaminating the seal to case bond, just wipe a thin coat of grease on the id of the seal or three or four very little dabs distributed will do. But you really need a little lube of some kind on the dry rubber or crank or it will burn before the oil can work its way in and do its thing. A completely dry seal surface is a recipe for failure here.
Tim Andres
after adhesive cure I did oil the outside of the seal at the shaft with engine oil. I'm not sure how much good that will do since the airflow is in the opposite direction.
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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 600+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.
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  #115  
Old 07-30-2017, 02:37 PM
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jetjok jetjok is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Sutter Creek, CA
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Default Question...

A very slight drift, but since it is mentioned in the SI, I thought that I would ask.
I noticed throughout the thread that no one has mentioned using the split seal. Any valid reasons for this? Over the years, I have replaced a few seals, and always used the split seal. Much simpler operation, and endorsed by Lycoming. What am I missing?
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  #116  
Old 07-30-2017, 03:16 PM
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snopercod snopercod is offline
 
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Location: Asheville, NC
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I use the split seal, and have never had any leaks. That's what came with my engine, and I have changed it once; It wasn't leaking, but I thought it was. I might consider using the continuous seal if I ever have to change it again but I have never found a cross-reference to the proper part number.
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  #117  
Old 08-01-2017, 09:11 PM
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roadrunner20 roadrunner20 is offline
 
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Location: Bay Pines, FL (based @ KCLW)
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Thanks for the update Steve.
I posted my opinion in post #6 on this thread on how I had replaced my seal in year 2.
Now I will be replacing it again this weekend.
BTW, I used pliobond on my initial replacement and will be doing the same again.
I'll let you know how it goes this time.
Sorry I missed you at Oshkosh, but I did purchased a couple of your quick drain fairings. Very nice.
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Morphed RV7, N20DL, PNP Pilot
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  #118  
Old 08-02-2017, 05:14 AM
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Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadrunner20 View Post
Thanks for the update Steve.
I posted my opinion in post #6 on this thread on how I had replaced my seal in year 2.
Now I will be replacing it again this weekend.
BTW, I used pliobond on my initial replacement and will be doing the same again.
I'll let you know how it goes this time.
Sorry I missed you at Oshkosh, but I did purchased a couple of your quick drain fairings. Very nice.
thx Dan, I'm glad you like the fairings. I sold a lot of those. clean up the mating surface with a file to get a good fit because I didn't have time for that.

upon my first repair seal removal I noted the pliobond made a strong bond. just don't get any on the shaft.
note: I used a 1/2 x 1 piece of wood trim molding to push on the sides of the seal to help break it free. I would never be concerned with pliobond failing if done correctly.
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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 600+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.

Last edited by Steve Melton : 08-02-2017 at 03:11 PM.
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  #119  
Old 08-10-2017, 05:50 PM
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roadrunner20 roadrunner20 is offline
 
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I tested my crank seal replacement yesterday and found the new seal is leaking.
I used pliobond, but I suspect I didn't butter it up enough on the interior form.
I'll be pulling it apart again on Saturday to see if the seal is floating or detached.
Not fun having to remove everything once again. What I feel I should have done is the butter up of the interior prior, to allow me more real estate to do the application before having the new seal present.
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2017 Donation Paid
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