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3M tape

Ron B.

Well Known Member
Just reading up on double flush riveting. I see that Van's is now recomending 3M double sided tape for the trailing edge bonding instead of Proseal. I haven't purchased any tape and thought I was going to use messy Proseal. Anyone use the 3M F9460 PC VHB tape Van's is suggesting ?
I noticed the VA-140 now has lightening holes in them and was thinking they would just fill with Proseal. The tape would solve this problem.
Something else to order?
 
I have used 3M VHB tape before, and it holds very well, but it is pretty high $$$
 
Slightly off topic...sorry. I'm thinking about using this tape to attach some ozite carpet to my dash. Do you think there would be any problems with the tape off-gassing and causing problems with the windscreen plexiglass?
 
Just curious, but where did you see that Vans is now recommending tape instead of proseal for double-flush riveting. I assume you're talking about training edges?
 
It's in the RV-14 instructions at the begining of the wing manual, where they describe different techniques on riveting, glassing and so on. And yes it replaces Proseal for, trailing edges only.
 
This doesn't mean that proseal is now considered unacceptable.
It just means that in the interest of continuing to make improvements to the kits, something different was tried so that the processes would be less messy. And unlike proseal, it requires very little wait time before you can do the riveting.
 
Double flush riveting

I plan to order my 14 kit soon. What is double flush riveting?

It is a riveting technique used for trailing edges where both heads are set flush. It's described in Ch 5 of the planns you'll get with your kit but I recommend that you get at least one each of Vans practice kits before starting your plane. They're cheap and mistakes don't matter. Double flush riveting is done on the control surface practice kit.

EAA sheet metal class is helpful for learning these techniques too. Will save you much $ in the end.
 
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Could someone describe the process from the RV-14 manual? I'm trying to imagine how to ensure the trailing edge is perfectly straight when applying the tape. With proseal, you have time to clamp it to a straight edge.
 
I plan to match drill a light gauge straight angle. Then cleco the first skin with tape applied to the angle. Then add/cleco the VA-140 vee with tape already applied to the opposite side, then add the last skin. Having said all that, I haven't read the manual for the procedure using the tape so if Van's has a plan I'll follow that.
Ordered tape from Digikey today.
 
Mine was an early 9a kit. It did not recommend using any adhesive when assembling the trailing edges. I did all the elevators, rudder, flaps and ailerons without any pro seal or tape. It was not difficult. They are straight and true. I cannot imagine using pro seal and the mess it creates for this task. Seems like if you just used it with the pressure of the clecos and allowed it to set up before riveting that the joints would not be as tight. Riveting certainly pulls the metal tighter than clecos.
 
Mine was an early 9a kit. It did not recommend using any adhesive when assembling the trailing edges. I did all the elevators, rudder, flaps and ailerons without any pro seal or tape. It was not difficult. They are straight and true. I cannot imagine using pro seal and the mess it creates for this task. Seems like if you just used it with the pressure of the clecos and allowed it to set up before riveting that the joints would not be as tight. Riveting certainly pulls the metal tighter than clecos.

John, it seems to be a common thread with RV building.

One builder does a task and it comes out looking beautiful, and another builder using the same parts and instructions can't get it to look good after even three try's.

All of the early prototype airplanes were built using no adhesive, so that is what went into the manual. After a while it was obvious that a certain % of builders had a hard time, so bonding first was added to the process, to help them get a better finish quality.
 
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