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DRDT adjustments

Just posted a couple pictures of my about to be finished -10 HS and I am getting some comments on how I may not be "aggressive" enough. I am using an Experimental Aero dimpler with a dimple die set from Cleveland. Will try to get some pics posted on here...all arrows and suggestions are welcome.

Main question is, is there a difference in the die sets and just how tight can one go when dimpling. Not wanting to cause stress cracks...I am currently deburring and priming before dimpling.

http://cubeupload.com/im/Thunderpig/IMG0172.jpg

http://u.cubeupload.com/Thunderpig/IMG0173.jpg

http://u.cubeupload.com/Thunderpig/IMG0174.jpg

http://u.cubeupload.com/Thunderpig/IMG0175.jpg

http://u.cubeupload.com/Thunderpig/IMG0176.jpg

http://u.cubeupload.com/Thunderpig/IMG0177.jpg

This is a copy of a post I made in the Tools section...anyone have a DRDT and is there anyway to make these dimples more properly defined?
 
More pressure, a lot and they will form nicely. There is a video by Cleaveland tools on dimpling and getting crisp dimples. I watched it and went right to the shop and added a lot of pressure from my DRDT and the dimples improved 100%
 
Pressure

Yep, I used a lot more pressure to the point that the DRDT arm deflects noticeably and I now get crisp edged dimples.
 
Question is...is this a show stopper? I clearly haven't made perfect dimples, but structurally, I don't see a huge issue.
 
1 turn preload

My horizontal stab was just a bit "underdimpled" until I zeroed in on how to set up my DRDT-2. I was concerned at the time (cosmetically, not structurally) but it turned out to be a non issue.

I used 1 turn pre-load for all the rest of my build - worked great! 1 turn pre-load defined as one additional turn of the adjustment screw from the point where the two bare dies touch each other (no material between the dies). As others have pointed out, in use there is a noticeable deflection in the upper arm of the tool when dimpling.

You might take a look at this post http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=286707&postcount=3 that I made back in 2009. It has photos of test dimples I made with the DRDT-2 and pneumatic dimpler using different preloads.
 
No, this is not a structural issue, but a cosmetic one.

Agree with the others that your dimples appear to be slightly under dimpled. Honestly not a real problem, just a "look" thing.

Here is the cleavland tool video being discussed:
https://youtu.be/Qo9QCMaNSoA
 
Structural

No, this is not a structural issue, but a cosmetic one.

Agree with the others that your dimples appear to be slightly under dimpled. Honestly not a real problem, just a "look" thing.

Here is the cleavland tool video being discussed:
https://youtu.be/Qo9QCMaNSoA

Just a little point.
It shouldn't be structural but if the dimples don't nest in the substructure and parts have a gap, it can be structural.
 
Just a little point.
It shouldn't be structural but if the dimples don't nest in the substructure and parts have a gap, it can be structural.

Good point, but not specifically a symptom of a consistently under-dimpled parts. Inconsistent dimpled parts would show this behavior, or insufficient countersinking.

Gahhh!!!! I'm no expert, I just play one on the internet, and why I suggested an EAA counselor give a visit in the other thread. :D
 
Good point

Good point, but not specifically a symptom of a consistently under-dimpled parts. Inconsistent dimpled parts would show this behavior, or insufficient countersinking.

Gahhh!!!! I'm no expert, I just play one on the internet, and why I suggested an EAA counselor give a visit in the other thread. :D

Yes. Exactly. I should have made that clearer.
 
What is Preload?

I'm not exactly the most mechanical person in my family. :rolleyes:

Ok, so I just re-read Dan's post. Does "one additional turn" mean putting the dies closer together?

Thanks!
 
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Closer together

I'm not exactly the most mechanical person in my family. :rolleyes:

Ok, so I just re-read Dan's post. Does "one additional turn" mean putting the dies closer together?

Thanks!

Yes - closer together. So this means that when you try to close the handle afterwards, the dies will touch before you get the handle all the way down. Moving the handle the rest of the way closed will actually bend the upper arm up a bit (well within the elastic limit of the steel of course :)). This helps apply even greater force to the dimple which keeps it from dishing.
 
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Yes - closer together. So this means that when you try to close the handle afterwards, the dies will touch before you get the handle all the way down. Moving the handle the rest of the way closed will actually bend the upper arm up a bit (well within the elastic limit of the steel of course :)). This helps apply even greater force to the dimple which keeps it from dishing.

Made some crucial adjustments and all was successful. Though, the handle itself shouldn't be bending, but the overcenter hinging will flex, with quite a bit more authority than I had it set up before. Talked to Van's and they looked over the pics I had set up, they were okay with continuing to build. Also, I ended up ordering the springback dies from Cleveland. Feeling a bit chagrined...I pored over these boards, watched building videos and somehow never happened upon the specialty dies or what the dimples should look like. Cautionary tale, for certain...
 
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